Things to do in Aix En Provence
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Les Deux Garçons
Cézanne and Zola once lingered in this classic brasserie/café, but it rests on its laurels: best for a drink or small bite.
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Cézanne Sights
His star may have reached its greatest heights after his death, but the life of local lad Paul Cézanne (1839–1906) is treasured in Aix. To see where he ate, drank, studied and painted, follow the Circuit de Cézanne (Cézanne Trail), marked by footpath-embedded bronze plaques inscribed with the letter C. An informative English-language guide to the plaques, Cézanne’s Footsteps, is available free from the tourist office.
Though none of his works hang here, Cézanne’s last studio, Atelier Paul Cézanne, 1.5km north of the tourist office on a hilltop, is a must for any Cézanne fan. It’s painstakingly preserved as it was at the time of his death, strewn with his tools a…
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Centre Chorégraphique National
Long at the forefront of contemporary dance, Aix is home to France's first purpose-built choreography centre, the Centre Chorégraphique National (CNN, National Choreographic Centre; rue des Allummettes). This glass, steel and black-concrete box, Pavillon Noir, houses a 378-seat auditorium, roof deck and glass-walled rehearsal studios.
The skeletal building, masterminded by French architect Rudi Ricciotti, allows passers-by to peer into the illuminated studios to watch the agile artistry of dancers.
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Roy René
Aix's sweetest treat since King René's wedding banquet in 1473 is the marzipan-like local speciality, calisson, a small, diamond-shaped chewy delicacy comprising 40% ground almonds and 60% fruit syrup, wrapped in a communion wafer and glazed with white icing sugar. When the Great Plague came into town in 1630, calissons supposedly staved off the disease. Traditional calissonniers still make the sweets, including Roy René, which also runs guided tours at its out-of-town factory/museum.
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Amphityron
Amphityron combines the talents of co-owners Patrice Lesné and Bruno Ungaro. Patrice masterfully oversees the sleek dining rooms of studded red banquettes and outdoor 15th-century cloister terrace; passionate chef Bruno visits the markets each morning for seasonal specialities, which might include 15 different types of tomatoes. The attached Comptoir de l'Amphi is an affordable alternative; and there's a piano where guests knock out a tune after a cognac or two.
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Fondation Victor Vasarely
This thrilling centre, 4km west of the city, was designed by the optical art innovator himself, in a series of repeating triangles and hexagons, right down to the honeycomb ceiling glass. Though in need of repairs, the building is a masterpiece: 16 interconnecting six-walled galleries, purpose-built to display and reflect the patterning of the artist’s acid-trip-ready, floor-to-ceiling geometric artworks. Take bus 4 or 6 to the Vasarely stop.
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Bastide du Cours
In the beating heart of Aix, this café right on cours Mirabeau has a delightful interior garden where you can get a culinary taste of Provence with dishes such as slow-roasted lamb shank with wild thyme and locally grown tomatoes. It also has four richly adorned chambre d'hôte rooms with a visual taste of Provence's striped, flowered and checked fabrics. Rates jump about 30% in July.
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L'Aixquis
You'll be tempted to whip out your camera to photograph elaborately presented plats such as truffle-infused St-Jacques scallops at this small peach-coloured restaurant, which has a way of giving even the most humble vegetables panache. The carte (no menus) changes seasonally, but the magical minute chocolat noir (a tray of petite desserts) is a year-round fixture.
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Le Poivre d’Ane
Poivre d’Ane isn’t afraid to break ranks with culinary norms: fancy a haddock milkshake, duck sushi, or thyme-and-cinnamon apple tart with Baileys whipped cream? The 10-table dining room’s decor is austere, save for splashes of bold colour, reflecting the chef’s playfulness. In summer outdoor tables are smack dab on one of Aix’s loveliest pedestrian squares. Reservations essential.
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Ballet Preljocaj
The Ballet Preljocaj is the redident dance company at the architecturally daring Centre Chorégraphique National. The cutting-edge Preljocaj, founded in 1984, presents some of Europe's most creative - and at times shocking - works. Performance schedules are posted on the company's website; its other programmes (when not on tour) include dance workshops for adults and children.
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Atelier Paul Cézanne
Cézanne’s last studio, Atelier Paul Cézanne, 1.5km north of the tourist office on a hilltop, is a must for any Cézanne fan. It’s painstakingly preserved as it was at the time of his death, strewn with his tools and still-life models; his admirers claim this is where Cézanne is most present. Take bus 1 or 20 to the Atelier Cézanne stop, or walk (20 minutes) from the centre.
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Cathédrale St-Sauveur
Built between 1285 and 1350 in a potpourri of styles, this cathedral includes a Romanesque 12th-century nave in its southern aisle; chapels from the 14th and 15th centuries; and a 5th-century sarcophagus in the apse. More recent additions include the 18th-century gilt baroque organ. The acoustics make Gregorian chants (4.30pm Sunday) unforgettable.
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Musée Granet
Housed in a 17th-century Knights of Malta priory, the museum’s pride and joy are its nine Cézanne paintings. The unique De Cézanne à Giacometti collection features works by Picasso, Léger, Matisse, Tal Coat and Giacometti, among others. There are also extensive 16th- to 20th-century Italian, Flemish and French collections and rotating exhibitions.
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La Chimère Café
Aix’s party crowd laps up the cabaret atmosphere of this former nightclub: starry-night vaulted ceiling in the underground room; grand chandeliers with crimson, velvety furnishings on the main floor. On the plate, the food is good, classic French. Come when you feel like donning heels and making a night of it.
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Le Formal
Actually the namesake of its chef, Jean-Luc Le Formal, who's making a name for himself in France's foodie circles, this first-class establishment indeed has impeccably mannered service both at its whitewashed-stone lounge/reception area at street level and in its vaulted-cellar dining rooms.
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Les Instants d'Été
August brings open-air performances (theatre, cinema, cabaret, circus, video projections etc) to Parc Jourdan, Théâtre de Verdure du Jas de Bouffan (av St-John Perse), and the Carrières d'Ocre in Rognes (21km N of Aix) during the month-long Les Instants d'Été.
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Le Petit Verdot
Wine is the primary focus at this earthy restaurant, where tabletops are made of cast-off wine crates. The meat-heavy menu is designed to marry with the wines, not the other way round. It’s fun when you’re feeling festive, but decibel levels are too high for a romantic night out.
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Amphitryon
Run by fiery duo maître d’ Patrice Lesné and chef Bruno Ungaro, Amphitryon enjoys a solid reputation among Aix’s bourgeoisie, particularly in summer for its market-driven cooking and alfresco dining in the cloister-garden. Attached to it is the Comptoir de l’Amphi (mains €12-17).
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Fondation Vasarely
The bold Bauhaus-style edifice, Fondation Vasarely is 4km west of town. Built in 1976, its 16 hexagonal spaces house vast architecture-meets-art works by Hungarian-born Victor Vasarely, the 'father of Optical Art'. Take bus 4 from La Rotonde to the Vasarely stop.
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Chez Grand Mère
In the old town, this friendly place, characterised by colourful murals, serves French fare including frogs' legs and the like. If you missed out on bouillabaisse in Marseille, this is your chance to make up for it (minimum of two diners; order two days before).
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Charlotte
Townspeople congregate like extended family at this bustling, cheek-by-jowl neighbourhood restaurant, which turns out simple home cooking, including terrines, homemade soups, grilled meat and savoury tarts, from its open kitchen. In summer, feast in the garden.
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Bistro Latin
Readers rave about this bistro and with good reason. Engaging and affordable (it's definitely worth booking ahead), Bistro Latin has extensive menu choices spanning cod, scampi risotto and a myriad of meat dishes cooked with saffron, spinach and cream.
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La Tomate Verte
The house speciality at this apple-green bistro is green-tomato tart, a tangy-delicious lead to the Provençal comfort food, simple as roast lamb with rosemary and garlic. Tile floors mean noise; if that matters, choose a table in the side dining room.
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Le Zinc d'Hugo
Outside this rustic bistro of stone walls and chunky wooden tables, a blackboard chalks up daily specials such as a terrine of foie gras with confit of vegetables, as well as highlights from its 80-strong wine list.
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Icône
The designer Italian/Mediterranean fare matches the designer boxlike teal armchairs and dark timber lining this glam place just off cours Mirabeau; with a stainless steel bar and DJ spinning electro lounge beats.
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