Things to do in Perpignan
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Palais des Rois de Majorque
The Palais des Rois de Majorque sits on a small hill. Symbol of Perpignan's late-medieval splendour but now echoing and sparsely furnished, the palace was built in 1276 for the ruler of the newly founded kingdom. It was once surrounded by extensive fig and olive groves and a hunting reserve, both lost once Vauban's formidable citadel walls enclosed the palace. Pick up a guide sheet as you enter and climb the 70 steps of Tour de l'Hommage for a sweeping panorama of the Pyrenees and Mediterranean.
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Casa Païral
Casa Païral, the museum of Roussillon and Catalan folklore, occupies Le Castillet, a 14th-century red-brick town gate. Once a prison, it's the only vestige of Vauban's fortified town walls, which encircled the city until the early 1900s. The museum houses bits and pieces of everything Catalan - from traditional bonnets and lace mantillas to a 17th-century kitchen. From the rooftop terrace there are great views of the old city and citadel.
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Hôtel de Ville
Place de la Loge has three fine stone structures. Sandwiched between La Loge de Mer and the Palais de la Députation, once seat of the local parliament, is the Hôtel de Ville with its typically Roussillon pebbled façade of river stones. Pass by on summer weekends and you may well see locals of all ages dancing the graceful sardane, folk dance of the Catalans.
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Le France
Le France manages to insert harmoniously the ultramodern – right down to the all-glass handbasins in the toilets – within the historical setting of what was once Perpignan's stock exchange. Mains are smallish but attractively presented and there's a good selection of tapas and pizzas.
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Les Antiquaires
The cuisine is as traditional, reliable and mature as both the clientele and the splendid line of vintage bottles displayed above the fireplace. Portions, such as the two huge dollops of chocolate mousse for dessert, are mightily generous.
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Cathédrale St-Jean
Topped by a typically Provençal wrought-iron bell cage, Cathédrale St-Jean, begun in 1324 and not completed until 1509, has a flat facade of red brick and smooth, zigzagging river stones. The cavernous single nave is marked by the fine carving and relative sobriety of its Catalan altarpiece. For centuries, Perpignan believers have venerated the engagingly naive statue of the Virgin and child in the chapel of Nostra Senyora dels Correchs in the north aisle.
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Casa Sansa
Here's another highly popular spot – or rather two adjacent places. Choose the older, more southerly one, its walls scarcely visible beneath photos of the famous and less famous who have enjoyed its fine Catalan cuisine.
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La Galinette
In an elegant setting, La Galinette offers refined cuisine, delicately confectioned desserts and an ample selection of regional wines. For a frisson of the unexpected, go for the menu confiance fish menu (€55) and let the chef select the best that the sea can offer that day.
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Laurens'O
This cheerful modern locale with its striped tablecloths and orange and black decor offers innovative Mediterranean cooking. Its distinctly Italian flavour is garnished with a creative French twist and a little Thai touch here and there.
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La Loge de Mer
La Loge de Mer was constructed in the 14th century and rebuilt during the Renaissance. At various times Perpignan's stock exchange and maritime tribunal, its ground floor is now occupied by the stylish café-restaurant Le France.
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L'Arago
L'Arago is much in demand so you may have to hang around a while for a free table. It bakes mean pizzas and has a strong and varied à la carte selection. Choose from the good range of Roussillon and Côtes Catalanes wines.
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The Crusader Trail - Cathar Castles Walk
7 days (Perpignan)
Traverse the magnificent terrain and hotbed of historical intrigue that is the Cathar Castle region.
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La Passerelle
The attractive marine decor hints at the riches within the kitchen. La Passerelle is the restaurant in Perpignan for Mediterranean fish, guaranteed fresh and without a hint of freezer or fish farm.
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Campo Santo
Immediately south of the cathedral (leave by a small door in the south aisle) is the early-14th-century Campo Santo, France's largest and oldest cloister-cemetery, lined with white-marble Gothic niches.
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Palais de la Députation
Next to La Loge de Mer is the Palais de la Députation, once the seat of the local parliament.
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Le Chapon Fin
This Michelin one star restaurant at the Park Hotel is well worth a visit.
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Républic Café
Down your first coffee of the day on the busy terrace of Républic Café and return later to sip an aperitif and linger in its Gaudí-inspired interior, all sinuous shapes and white ceramic fragments.
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Place de la Loge
Place de la Loge has three fine stone structures. Fourteenth-century Le Loge de Mer, rebuilt during the Renaissance, was once Perpignan's stock exchange, then maritime tribunal. Between it and the Palais de la Députation, formerly seat of the local parliament, is the Hôtel de Ville with its typically Roussillon red-brick and pebble facade.
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Maison Sala
Along short, scented rue Paratilla, known popularly to locals as rue des Épices (Spice St), shops sell dried fruits, herbs, jams, hams, cheeses and more. Most famous is Maison Sala, run by the same family for nearly a century.
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Maison Quinta
Take time to browse this Aladdin's cave of wares, tasteful, kitsch, utilitarian or unashamedly frivolous. They're piled high and higgledy-piggledy on three floors of this former noble mansion.
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Le Castillet & Casa Païral
Once a prison, the 14th-century red-brick town gate of Le Castillet is the only vestige of Vauban's fortified town walls. Inside, Casa Pairal, a folklore museum, houses bits and pieces of everything Catalan – from traditional bonnets and lace mantillas to an entire 17th-century kitchen.
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Espi
Gorge yourself on Espi's homemade chocolates, multicoloured macaroons and tempting ice creams. They'll even, given notice, knock you up a multistoreyed birthday cake. It's also a pleasant café serving good coffee.
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Au Vrai Chic Parisien
No, not some snobby Parisian implant but a friendly, popular place in a popular quarter. Furniture is simple, rustic and brightly painted and walls are a clutter of posters, old menus, newspaper clippings and bric-a-brac. The midday choice is limited but tasty (try the piping-hot potato-based tartiflette). Weekend dinners offer Savoyard fondues and barbecued meats. And the toilets are particularly exciting (we leave you to discover why).
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Al Trés
At this stylish place with its roughly plastered ox-blood-coloured walls and vast, carved wooden bar that could double up as an altar, you'll appreciate the freshness of the ingredients and innovative cuisine.
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