Things to do in Bastia
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Jardin Romieu
From the south side of the Vieux Port, steps lead up to the Jardin Romieu, a pleasant expanse of green that clings to the hillside for dear life. The even steeper steps and tunnel of the rampe St-Charles bring you through the defensive walls of the citadel to place du Donjon, at its heart.
Overlooking this cobbled square is the Palais des Gouverneurs (Governors' Palace), long closed to the public and earmarked - as it has been for many years - as the venue for the Musée d'Ethnographie Corse, so long in gestation. This citadel fortress, built in 1530, was the seat of the Genoese governor of Corsica for over two centuries. The Terra Nova quarter, many of its buildings recen…
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Cap Corse Mattei
Cap Corse Mattei is a Bastia institution. The interior of this gloriously retro shop with its Art Deco façade has hardly changed since the day Louis-Napoléon Mattei first open for business in 1872. During over a century of service it has continued to sell not only its celebrated brand-name Cap Corse apéritif, but various spin-off products that make ideal souvenirs and local specialities such as fig jam, olive oil and fruit liqueurs.
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U Tianu
A local favourite that has hardly changed in a quarter of a century, this informal, family-run place is tucked away down a side street and up a flight of rickety stairs behind the Vieux Port. You'll stagger out after indulging in its superb value five-course menu of traditional Corsican favourites (including an aperitif, coffee and a digestif).
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La Braise
This Bastia classic has recently changed hands. Gone, some will lament, is Jo, the ebullient former patron, into well-earned retirement. The place might have had a thorough spring clean but what remains constant is the simple, well-prepared cuisine such as prawns flambés in pastis and red mullet with pistou.
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Vieux Port
Immediately south of Terra Vecchia is the Vieux Port (Old Port), Bastia's most picturesque area, ringed by pastel-coloured tenements and buzzy brasseries, as well as the twin-towered Église St-Jean Baptiste. The best views of the harbour are from the hillside park of Jardin Romieu, reached via a twisting staircase from the waterfront.
reviewed
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Le Bouchon
This reputable restaurant-cum-wine-bar overlooking the Vieux Port will tempt the gourmand in you with dishes such as organic Corsican veal or tartare de liche (raw leerfish). Since wines also feature highly here, let things rip with the list of well-chosen Corsican tipples (from €3.10).
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Chez Vincent
A Casarella's neighbour, Chez Vincent offers Corsican staples and wood-fired pizzas. The assiette du bandit Corse (€18.50) features a smorgasbord of local nosh, including stewed veal chestnuts, cured meats, ewe's-milk cheese, wild boar pâté and roast figatellu (liver sausage).
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A Casarella
Poised above the old port in the heart of the citadel, this restaurant boasts the loveliest terrace in Bastia. Tuck into innovative dishes based on organic Corsican produce – caramelised local pork, roasted cuttlefish with parsley – with the twinkling lights of the harbour below.
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Benta Ainhoa
Benta Ainhoa is run by two engaging young Basque couples. It serves tapas, prepared from fresh produce bought in daily, has a good selection of Corsican, Basque and Rioja wines and plays eclectic world music - everything from Irish jigs to South American Indian songs.
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Club Nautique Bastia
Also in the Vieux Port, Club Nautique Bastia runs sailing and windsurfing courses from its headquarters. Between mid-June and mid-September, it also mounts courses and rents catamarans, windsurfs and kayaks from its base at the northern end of the Étang de Biguglia.
reviewed
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Via Corsica
From April to October, Via Corsica runs two-hour guided walking tours in French around the themes of Baroque Bastia, Genoese Bastia and Bastia and Its Confréries (lay religious brotherhoods). Consult the tourist office for dates and a detailed programme.
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Palais des Gouverneurs
One of the citadel’s landmarks, Palais des Gouverneurs houses Musée d’Histoire de Bastia (04 95 31 09 12; admission €5; Tue-Sun 10am-6pm), which provides an overview of the history of the city.
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Corsica Cycle
8 days (Bastia)
A cycle expedition to explore the stunning diversity of Corsica's coast and mountains.
Not LP reviewed
from USD$1,460 -
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Chapelle de l’Immaculée Conception
Don’t miss the baroque Chapelle de l’Immaculée Conception, with its elaborately painted barrel-vaulted ceiling; it briefly served as the seat of the short-lived Anglo-Corsican parliament in 1795.
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Le Manguier
Between June and September, Le Manguier, a former French navy tug boat moored in the Vieux Port, does day trips, visits to the Italian islands of Capraia and Elba and a six-day sortie around Cap Corse.
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Chez Anna
This nice little spot has a plant-covered façade, a streetside terrace and a pleasant first-floor brick-ceilinged dining room. Portions are generous and they also throw a mean pizza.
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Raugi
You say you're itching for an ice-cream fix? Good, because it's hard to resist the giant-sized ice-cream cups served at this longstanding venture.
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Église Ste-Croix
The Église Ste-Croix features gilded ceilings and a mysterious black-oak crucifix, which was found in the sea in 1428.
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Pub Assunta
There are a few attractive bars on rue Fontaine Neuve. Pub Assunta has a pool table and local bands play on Thursday and most weekends.
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LN Mattei
Drop by the iconic LN Mattei, which is housed in a gloriously retro building and sells quality local delicacies.
reviewed
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L'Apocalypse
L'Apocalypse at Lido de la Marana, 11km south of Bastia, is a lively summertime dance venue that attracts a mainly teenage crowd.
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Chez Serge Raugi
The terrace of Chez Serge Raugi is usually packed on summer nights with customers who come to sample its scrummy ice-creams.
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Le Point de Rencontre
Bookshop-cum-arts centre with a range of local-interest texts. Stages regular exhibitions and readings by local authors.
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Église Ste-Marie
A few steps south of place du Marché aux Oies is the Église Ste-Marie, ingeniously converted by acclaimed architect Jean Nouvel, whose parents still live in Sarlat. It now not only houses Sarlat's mouthwatering Marché Couvert (covered market) , but, by the time you read this, a panoramic lift (elevator) will have been installed by Nouvel in its belltower. Check with the tourist office for details.
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Chapelle St-Roch
The Chapelle St-Roch is known for its 18th-century organ and trompe l’œil roof.
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