Things to do in Strasbourg
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Cathédrale Notre-Dame
Victor Hugo declared it a 'gigantic and delicate marvel', Goethe professed that its 'loftiness is linked to its beauty' and, no matter the angle or time of day, you too will be captivated by Strasbourg's centrepiece Gothic cathedral. At once immense and intricate, the cathedral is a riot of filigree stonework and flying buttresses, leering gargoyles and lacy spires.
The west facade, most impressive if approached from rue Mercière, was completed in 1284, but the 142m spire – the tallest of its time – was not in place until 1439; its southern companion was never built.
On a sunny day, the 12th- to 14th-century stained-glass windows – especially the rose window over the w…
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Bookworm
Carries new and used English books, including Lonely Planet guides, and is a good source of information on Strasbourg.
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Jardin des Deux Rives
An expression of flourishing Franco-German friendship, Strasbourg and its German neighbour Kehl have turned former customs posts and military installations into this 60-hectare garden, whose play areas, promenades and parkland straddle both banks of the Rhine. The centrepiece is Marc Mimram's sleek (and hugely expensive) suspension bridge, which has proved a big hit with pedestrians and cyclists. From the tram stop, walk east or take bus 21 for three stops.
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Musée de l'Œuvre Notre-Dame
Occupying a cluster of sublime 14th- and 16th-century buildings, this museum harbours one of Europe's premier collections of Romanesque, Gothic and Renaissance sculptures (including many originals from the cathedral), plus 15th-century paintings and stained glass. Christ de Wissembourg (c 1060; room two) is the oldest work of stained glass in France.
Hollywood gore seems tame compared to the tortures back when Hell really was hell. Sure to scare you into a life of chastity is Les Amants Trépassés (the Deceased Lovers; room 23), painted in 1470, showing a grotesque couple being punished for their illicit lust: both of their entrails are being devoured by dragon-headed sna…
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Palais des Droits de l'Homme
It’s just a hop across the Canal de la Marne to the swirly silver Palais des Droits de l’Homme, the most eye-catching of all the EU institutions.
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Musée Historique
Trace Strasbourg's history from its beginnings as a Roman military camp called Argentoratum at this engaging museum housed in a 16th-century slaughterhouse. Highlights include a famous painting of the first-ever performance of La Marseillaise, France's stirring national anthem, which – despite its name – was written in Strasbourg in 1792; a 1:600-scale model of the city, created in the 1720s to help Louis XV visualise the city's fortifications; and a Gutenberg Bible from 1485. Kids can try on medieval-style knights' helmets and touch ancient pots and 18th-century cannons.
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Palais Rohan
Hailed a 'Versailles in miniature', this opulent 18th-century residence was built for the city's princely bishops, and Louis XV and Marie-Antoinette once slept here.
The basement Musée Archéologique takes you from the Palaeolithic period to AD 800. On the ground floor is the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, where rooms adorned with Hannong ceramics and gleaming silverware evoke the lavish lifestyle of the nobility in the 18th century. On the 1st floor, the Musée des Beaux-Arts' collection of 14th- to 19th-century art reveals El Greco, Botticelli and Flemish Primitive works.
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European Parliament
The home of the relatively toothless 732-member European Parliament , used just 12 times a year for four-day 'part-sessions' (plenary sessions), is 2.5km northeast of the cathedral. When it's in session (dates are available from the tourist office or on the website - click 'Activities' and then 'Parliament's Calendar'), you can sit in on debates for up to one hour; it's first-come first-served (bring ID) and no reservations are possible.
The rest of the time the building is inaccessible because of strict post-9/11 security measures.
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Alsace by Bike
8 days (Strasbourg)
Wind your way through the picturesque villages and vineyards of the great wine making region of Alsace.
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Place de la République
Many of Strasbourg's grandest public buildings, constructed when the city was ruled by the German Reich, huddle northeast of Grande Île around place de la République. The neighbourhood that stretches eastwards to Parc de l'Orangerie is dominated by sturdy stone buildings inspired by late-19th-century Prussian tastes.
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Musée d'Art Moderne et Contemporain
This striking glass-and-steel cube showcases an outstanding collection of fine art, graphic art and photography. Kandinsky, Picasso, Magritte and Monet canvases hang out alongside curvaceous works by Strasbourg-born abstract artist Hans Jean Arp. Find details on temporary exhibitions on the website.
Don't leave without enjoying a drink at the glass-fronted Art Café, graced by bold frescoes by Japanese artist Aki Kuroda. The terrace commands terrific views of the River Ill and Petite France.
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Club Vosgien
The Strasbourg section of the Club Vosgien , a regional walking organisation founded in 1872, runs walks, cycling excursions and snow-shoe trips for its members (guests welcome) in the Vosges and other parts of Alsace; there are departures at around 08:00 each Sunday and sometimes on other days too. No reservations are needed for trips by private car (passengers pay around €0.06 per kilometre) or train; reserve a few days ahead for bus trips (around €12). Insurance costs €4.
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Palais de l'Europe
A futuristic glass crescent, the Council of Europe’s Palais de l’Europe across the the River Ill can be visited on free one-hour weekday tours; phone ahead for times and reservations.
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Au Renard Prêchant
A stuffed, bespectacled renard (fox) preaching to ducks presides over this warm, woody and very Alsatian restaurant, housed in a 16th-century chapel. Gibier (game) bagged by Molsheim-area hunters is an autumn and winter speciality. Take bus 30 to get here.
Located in a former medieval church, this hearty restaurant serves quality Alsatian cuisine. The menu features game in season.
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Petite France
Criss-crossed by narrow lanes, canals and locks, impossibly pretty Petite France is where craftsmen plied their trades in the Middle Ages. The half-timbered houses, sprouting veritable thickets of scarlet geraniums in summer, and the riverside parks attract the masses, but the area still manages to retain its Alsatian atmosphere and charm, especially in the early morning and late evening.
Drink in views of the River Ill and the mighty 17th-century Barrage Vauban (Vauban Dam), recently undergoing renovation, from the much-photographed Ponts Couverts (Covered Bridges) and their trio of 13th-century towers.
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Irish Times
A congenial and genuinely Irish pub that attracts a very international crowd. There's live music (including lots that's Irish) from about 21:30 to 00:30 on Friday and Saturday; Thursday may be karaoke night; and Sunday features a trivia quiz with prizes (21:00). Major sports events - shown on the two wide screens - often push Saturday and Sunday opening back to kick-off time.
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Au Crocodile
This hushed temple of French gastronomy is named after a stuffed toothy critter (now suspended over the foyer) brought back from Egypt by one of Napoléon's generals. Artistically presented specialities such as smooth foie gras with rhubarb chutney and filet mignon in a mountain-cheese crust have won Au Crocodile a Michelin star. Advance reservations recommended.
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Théâtre de la CHOUC'routerie
In 1984 Roger Siffer, a singer, comedian, actor and producer known for his biting satire, set up this intimate theatre in a former sauerkraut factory. Performances are fun, experimental and trilingual (Alsatian, French and German). The theatre is a five-minute walk west of Porte de l'Hôpital tram stop, on the opposite side of the river to Grand Île.
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Winstub Le Clou
Diners sit together at long tables with paisley tablecloths, so come here for an evening in the company of fellow diners, not an intimate tête-à-tête. Specialities include baeckeoffe (around €17.90) and wädele braisé au pinot noir (around €15.90). A dozen Alsatian wines are available by the glass.
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La Choucrouterie
Naked ladies straddling giant sausages (on the menu, we hasten to add) and eccentric chefs juggling plates of steaming choucroute garnie are just the tip of the theatrical iceberg at this inimitable bistro and playhouse double act. Speak a few words of Alsatian and you'll get extra helpings of everything, guaranteed.
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Moozé
A hip and hugely popular Japanese place, given good marks by local cognoscenti, where colour-coded plates (around €3.50 to around €6) go round on a dual-carriageway conveyor belt. The bathrooms are integrated into a rock garden so those who come seeking physical relief will find spiritual repose as well.
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Parc de l'Orangerie
Across from the Palais de l'Europe, this flowery park, designed in the 17th century by Le Nôtre of Versailles fame, is a family magnet with its playgrounds and swan-dotted lake. In summer you can rent row boats on Lac de l'Orangerie. Kids can get up close to storks and goats at the park's mini zoo (admission free).
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Maison des Tanneurs
Even locals book ahead at this former tannery, creaking under the weight of its 16th-century beams and billowing geraniums. Choucroute with fat pork knuckles and garlicky Alsatian-style escargot are matched with top-notch pinots and rieslings. Snag a window table for fine views of Petite France's canals.
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La Laiterie
Reggae, metal, punk, chanson, blues – Strasbourg's premier concert venue covers the entire musical spectrum and stages some 200 gigs a year. Tickets are available at the door and online. La Laiterie is just a five-minute walk (500m) south of Petite France along rue de Molsheim. Trams B and C stop close by.
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La Taverne Française
A mellow café favoured by actors from the national theatre, musicians from the opera house and students. A mixture of the old-fashioned and the endearingly tacky creates the ideal atmosphere for stimulating conversation. Bring along some fresh salmon and by the end of the evening you'll have lox.
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