Estonia’s easternmost city is separated from Ivangorod in Russia by the Narva River and is almost entirely populated by Russians. It’s quite literally a border town: the bridge at the end of the main street is the country’s principal link with Russia and no-man’s-land protrudes right up to the edge of the town square. Aside from its magnificent castle and baroque Old Town Hall, most of Narva’s outstanding architecture was destroyed in WWII. The reconstructed city has a melancholy, downtrodden air; the prosperity evident in other parts of the country is visibly lacking. Yet Estonia’s third-largest city is an intriguing place for a (brief) visit – you’ll find no other place in Estonia quite like it.