Things to do in Leeds
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Akbar's
Bit of an Egyptian theme going on at this exceptionally popular Indian restaurant – sarcophagi and cat-gods watch over the cutting-edge decor beneath a 'night-in-the-desert' ceiling. The traditional curry dishes come in pyramid-size portions, and they don't take bookings – expect to wait 30 minutes for a table on weekend nights.
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Anthony's
Probably the most talked-about restaurant in town, Anthony's serves top-notch Modern British cuisine (try sea bream with smoked potatoes, peas and mint jelly) to a clientele so eager that they'll think nothing of booking a month in advance. If you go at any other time except Saturday evening, you'll get away with making your reservations a day or so earlier.
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Baby Jupiter
A retro gem with lots of purple velvet, hanging fishbowls and a very funky soundtrack, this was - at the time of writing - the 'in' place with those who make it their business to define what 'in' actually is.
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Royal Armouries
Leeds' most interesting museum is undoubtedly the Royal Armouries, beside the snazzy Clarence Dock residential development. It was originally built to house the armour and weapons from the Tower of London but was subsequently expanded to cover 3000-years'-worth of fighting and self-defence. It all sounds a bit macho, but the exhibits are as varied as they are fascinating: films, live-action demonstrations and hands-on technology can awaken interests you never thought you had, from jousting to Indian elephant armour – we dare you not to learn something! To get here, walk east along the river from Centenary Footbridge (10 minutes), or take bus 28 from Albion St.
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City Art Gallery
If you're starved of a bit of high culture, get yourself to the City Art Gallery as soon as possible. It is packed with a host of 19th- and 20th-century British heavyweights - Turner, Constable, Stanley Spencer, Wyndham Lewis et al - along with more recent arrivals like Antony Gormley, sculptor of the Angel of the North. Pride of place, however, goes to the outstanding genius of Henry Moore (1898-1986), who graduated from the Leeds School of Art.
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Leeds Industrial Museum
One of the world's largest textile mills has been transformed into the Leeds Industrial Museum, telling the story of Leeds' industrial past, both glorious and ignominious. The city became rich off the sheep's back, but at some cost in human terms – working conditions were, well, Dickensian. As well as a selection of working machinery, there's a particularly informative display on how cloth is made. Take bus 5 from the train station to get here.
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Babycream
Cool drips off the white walls and onto the white leather furniture, where you and your party are gathered to share, fondue-style, in a platter of delicacies from around the globe. As you eat, the background music makes you tap your feet, and before you know it you've settled in for the day and moved on to cocktails. It's the Cream experience, and it's pretty good...
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The Elbow Room
Part of a franchise with branches in London and Bristol, The Elbow Room in Leeds offers pool tables and live music or DJs every night. It's all effortlessly appealing: there's pop art on the walls, purple pool tables and laid-back music that matches the clientele. Don't worry about getting hustled, you're more likely to meet Yorkshire Phil than Minnesota Fats.
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Abbey House Museum
Across the road from Kirkstall Abbey, the Abbey House Museum, once the Great Gate House to the abbey, contains meticulously reconstructed shops and houses recalling Victorian Leeds. The impressive attention to detail is lit by flickering candlelike light. Children will enjoy it, and there are displays giving an interesting insight into monastic life as well.
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Grand Theatre & Opera House
The Grand Theatre & Opera House presents a diverse array of entertainment, including plays, musicals, opera and ballet. Resident companies are the internationally successful Northern Ballet Theatre and the acclaimed Opera North. This is the place to see stars just before they make it big and you have to pay the earth just to glimpse them.
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City Varieties
This old-fashioned music hall features anything from clairvoyants to comedy acts to country music. Recently closed for major.
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Brasserie 44
Brasserie 44 is regarded as one of the best restaurants in Leeds. Like the Michelin-starred Pool Court, it is attached to the hotel 42 The Calls, but this place is less formal than its sister operation. It serves up excellent Modern British/Continental food in surrounds featuring leaf and leopardskin.
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St John's Church
Tucked away off northern Briggate in the centre of Leeds is St John's Church, a one-off masterpiece of 17th-century design. It's decked out with elaborate box-pews and a spectacular screen resplendent with huge carvings of the arms of James I and of Charles I as Prince of Wales.
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Dr Wu's
Small and chock-full of black leather seats, this grungy bar would slot comfortably into New York's East Village, and don't the punters just know it. The vibe is studied cool and the DJs play a suitable blend of eclectic (but always alternative) sounds.
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No 3 York Place
Any debate over which is the best restaurant in town will feature this superb French eatery, with its regularly changing menu of Gallic delicacies with an English bent - how about roast of lamb with Savoy cabbage, olive mash and a Niçoise sauce?
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Japanic
Take a traditional English pub and combine it with a modern, hi-tech karaoke bar and you get Japanic, where students flock to share a bottle of sake, knock back a few ales and take to the microphone. What's not to like? It's just north of the centre.
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Kirkstall Abbey
Leeds' most impressive medieval structure is the beautiful Kirkstall Abbey, founded in 1152 by Cistercian monks from Fountains Abbey in North Yorkshire, and one of the best-preserved medieval abbeys in Britain. Across the road, the Abbey House Museum once the Great Gate House to the abbey, contains meticulously reconstructed shops and houses that evoke Victorian Leeds, and displays that give an interesting insight into monastic life.
The abbey and museum are off the A65, 3 miles northwest of the centre; take bus 33, 33A or 757.
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Fourth Floor Café
A department store with a fancy restaurant? It could only be Harvey Nicks. It's called a cafe, but don't be fooled: the nosh here is the best of British, even if the portions would only satisfy the models in their catalogue.
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Sandinista
Our favourite bar in town has a Latin look but a unifying theme, attracting virtually everyone with its mixed bag of music and unpretentious atmosphere. If you're not too fussed about looking glam, this is the spot for you.
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Arts Café
Local art on the walls and a Bohemian vibe throughout make this a popular place for quiet reflection, a chat and a really good cup of coffee to wash down the excellent food - how about some monkfish lasagne?
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Anthony's at Flannel's
The brasserie-style brother of award-winning Anthony's, this bright and cheerful modern restaurant set amid white walls and timber beams features much of Anthony's style stuffed into its excellent sandwiches, salads, lunches and luxurious afternoon teas (£13). If you want to see and be seen, there's also Anthony's Patisserie in the classy setting of the Victoria Quarter arcade across the street.
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HiFi Club
This intimate club is a good break from the hardcore sound of four-to-the-floor: if it's Tamla Motown or the percussive beats of dance-floor jazz that shake your booty, this is the spot for you.
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Wire
This small, atmospheric basement club, set in a forest of Victorian cast-iron pillars, throbs to a different beat every night, from rock 'n' roll to drum and bass. Popular with local students.
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Corn Exchange
The circular Corn Exchange, built in 1865 to house the grain trade, has a wonderful wrought, armadillolike lid, and is the place to come for one-off clothes, eclectic jewellery or records.
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Yorkshire County Cricket Club
Headingley has been hosting cricket matches since 1890. It is still used for test matches and is the home ground of the Yorkshire County Cricket Club. Take bus 74 or 75 from Infirmary St.
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