Barkhor

One cannot help but be swept up in the wondrous swell of humanity that is the Barkhor, not a sight per se but a kora (pilgrim circuit) that proceeds clockwise around the periphery of the Jokhang Temple. You'll swear it possesses some mystical spiritual gravity, as every time you approach within 50m, you somehow get sucked right in and gladly wind up making the whole circuit again!

Spiritual wares and tourist baubles are hawked along every centimetre: prayer flags, block prints of scriptures, turquoise jewellery, Tibetan boots, Nepalese biscuits, yak butter, juniper incense and a lot of Yak, Yak, Yak, Yak - Tibet! T-shirts. Start your haggling engines.The Tibetan travellers here - indeed, most are actually pilgrims - are captivating. Braided-hair Khambas from eastern Tibet stride around with ornate swords or daggers; and Goloks (Tibetan nomads) from the northeast wear ragged sheepskins or, for Golok women, incredibly ornate braids and coral headpieces.