Bellavista’s most famous resident artist was Pablo Neruda, who made a point of watching Valparaíso’s annual New Year’s fireworks from his house at the top of the hill, La Sebastiana. Getting here involves a hefty uphill hike, and the climbing continues inside the house – you’re rewarded on each floor with ever more heart-stopping views over the harbor. The best of all are from Neruda’s crow’s nest study. Unlike at Neruda’s other houses, you can wander around La Sebastiana at will, lingering over the chaotic collection of ship’s figureheads, glass, 1950s furniture and artworks by his famous friends. Just don’t go behind the bright pink bar, which was reserved for Don Pablo himself.