Introducing Parque Pumalín

An emerald umbrella on the rainy bay, the yawning outpost of Chaitén is little more than a six by eight grid of wide streets. The only town near Parque Pumalín, it’s also a major transport stop for the ultrarural Carretera Austral. If you arrive by ferry; the port is a 10-minute walk northwest of town. Around the plaza are the post office, Entel and Banco del Estado (cnr Libertad & O’Higgins), which exchanges cash at poor rates and has an ATM. The tourist kiosk (cnr Costanera & O’Higgins; 9am-9pm Jan-Feb) lists lodgings. Pumalín Information Center (O’Higgins 62) has park information and reserves cabins. A bastion of local information, Chaitur (731-429; nchaitur@hotmail.com; O’Higgins 67) organizes excursions with bilingual guides to Pumalín, the Yelcho glacier, Termas de Amarillo and beaches with sea-lion colonies. Regional buses are based here and the agency also can provide general tour assistance, in English as well.