Set against an alpine backdrop, Dornbirn is Vorarlberg’s largest city. While its sights can’t rival those in Bregenz, there’s a refreshing lack of tourists. Wandering around the Marktplatz, you’ll spot the crooked, 17th-century Rotes Haus (red house), which owes its beautiful blush to an unappetising mix of ox blood and bile. Next door, the slender Doric columns and free-standing Gothic belfry of Pfarrkirche St Martin catch your eye.
Dornbirn’s biggest draw, though, are the creepy-crawlies at Inatura (
Just 4km southeast of Dornbirn is the Rappenlochschlucht (Rappenloch Gorge), a dramatic ravine gouged out by the thundering Dornbirner Ache. Wooden walkways lead up to a viewpoint (10 minutes) and the turquoise Staufensee (30 minutes). If you’re into posh motors, nip into the world’s biggest Rolls-Royce Museum (
Hohenems, 6km south of Dornbirn, was a haven for a large community of Jews in the 17th century. Their numbers dwindled in the 1860s, when Jews were eligible to live anywhere under Habsburg rule. Their legacy is explored in Jüdisches Museum Hohenems (