Must-see nightlife in Iran

  • Art House

    Yazd

    This tiny, friendly rooftop teahouse is the perfect place to enjoy soup, or an uncomplicated tea and cake (IR160,000) with one of the best views in town…

  • Negarossaltaneh

    Iran

    Deep within the Sa'd-al Saltaneh caravanserai is this hipster favourite. An English menu reveals heart-starting espressos and lattes, exotic teas and…

  • Flamingo

    Iran

    With its barrel seats, bottle scultptures, eccentric sculpture-walls and dangling cocktail glasses, this superb, low-lit cafe feels for all the world like…

  • Shahriar Restaurant

    Tabriz

    There are several interesting rooms in this converted subterranean 19th-century bathhouse, though the qalyan-wafting chaykhaneh (teahouse) is the most…

  • Sam Cafe

    Tehran

    A coffee roaster dominates the entrance to the slickest of north Tehran's many fashionable cafes and chief hang-out of the city's privileged. Down your…

  • Kaghazi Coffee

    Iran

    Funky laid-back meeting place bedecked with Pink Floyd lyrics and local hipsters listening to '70s Western rock. Yes, you're still in Iran.

  • Lankadeh Padideh

    Iran

    A blanket ban has pushed qalyan-smoking out of Mashhad, but in Shandiz you can still relax puffing on water pipes at various upmarket teahouses. While not…

  • Haj Ali Darvish Teahouse

    Tehran

    There's been a teahouse here next to Abdollah Khan Madrassa since 1917, and Haj Kazem's father Ali took over the business in 1962. It's now a stand-up 2m…

  • Cafe Abenbar

    Iran

    Deep below a conical dome of concentric brick rings, this unique cafe in what was once its greatest underground cistern is the highlight of Garmsar. The…

  • Cafe Upartmaan

    Tehran

    Although it's plagued by cigarette smoke, this large, multisectioned cafe is still well worth dropping by for its wide-ranging drinks and food menu,…

  • Lamiz

    Tehran

    Lamiz has several outlets of its Seattle-style cafes around Tehran. This super-chic branch is the most central and boasts a wide range of drinks,…

  • Shah Nematollah Sofrekhane

    Southeastern Iran

    Hidden within the Aramgah complex, this brick-domed teahouse offers spiritual music and a short menu of well-made Iranian favourites, including a minty…

  • Cake Studio Vorta

    Tehran

    Who doesn't love a cupcake? At this cute and buzzy cafe close by Tehran University, they're made well-slathered with butter-cream icing, plus there's…

  • Ferdosi Soffrekhaneh

    Iran

    The Ferdosi Soffrekhaneh, just west of the bazaar, is one of the most atmospheric, original teahouses in Iran. Housed in a charming old basement, and…

  • Fooka Cafe

    Yazd

    As a refreshingly modern alternative to the traditional teahouses of old Yazd, this stylish cafe, with its installation of hanging coffee cups, is a…

  • Hedayat Cafe

    Shiraz

    This trendy spot near the commercial centre of town attracts young Shirazis looking for an international coffee-shop vibe. The technically accurate …

  • Ferdowsi Cafe

    Shiraz

    Attracting a loyal local crowd of liberally minded young Shirazis, overseen by a genial boss, this cafe does a range of brilliant flavoured teas – the…

  • Laleh Teahouse Restaurant

    Yazd

    Persian music, courtyard fountains and a gentle breeze are good companions at this tranquil teahouse restaurant. Sit in the courtyard or in the attractive…

  • Shahriyar

    Southeastern Iran

    West of Imam St at the Imamzadeh Shirekhoda roundabout, Qarbi St rises past a series of older, mud-domed homes. Many are derelict, but near the top (250m)…

  • Cafe Naderi

    Tehran

    On the ground floor of the Hotel Naderi, this pastel-shaded cafe has long been a favourite, attracting a curious mix of students, artists and grannies in…

  • Timcheh Akbarian

    Tehran

    This traditional teahouse occupies what was the first Iranian bank some 260 years ago during the Qajar era. Carpeted booths on two levels look on to a…

  • Darchin

    Iran

    Tucked behind the Mashahir Sq cistern, this bustling, midrange family restaurant has a trio of live musicians playing nightly, serves herbal teas (IR20…

  • Cafe de France

    Tehran

    On Ghandi's upper level, Cafe de France whisks you to the Left Bank with its dark wood, retro tables and chairs, messy display of books and cosy ambience…

  • Chai Bar

    Tehran

    Occupying a pavilion in the grounds of a grand old mansion that now houses Art Centre Galleries, Chai Bar blends traditional Iranian style with a superb…

  • Toranj Cafe

    Mashhad

    Toranj's panelled ceiling and fireplace give the impression of an updated gentleman's club with African masks. Shakes, ice creams and juices supplement…

  • Sharbat Khan Bahar Nareng

    Esfahan

    Round the corner from the Kelisa-ye Vank, this magnificently painted one-room coffee shop is like an Esfahani miniature, with its exquisite patterned…

  • Cafe Gallery

    Tehran

    Located above Iranshahr Theatre in Artists’ Park, Cafe Gallery is hard to beat in central Tehran as a place to sit and soak up the scene. You can soak up…

  • Roozegar

    Esfahan

    After a few laps of the square, this little cafe is a lovely spot to pause and relax. Soothing music, rich honey cake, good coffee and herbal teas served…

  • Agha Bozorg

    Tehran

    Tucked away down an ornately tiled staircase, this cosy underground teahouse is full of young Iranians flirting, drinking tea, smoking hookahs and eating …

  • Romance Cafe

    Tehran

    Upstairs in an alley, this charming multiroom cafe is an ideal place to escape the traffic mayhem around Ferdowsi Sq. The Middle European atmosphere, with…

  • Nazdik Cafe

    Tehran

    One of central Tehran's most pleasantly designed cafes, Nazdik has both indoor and outdoor areas and a contemporary vibe. It's a popular spot for…

  • Bazar Cafe

    Shiraz

    This casual coffee shop in the middle of an old caravanserai offers a surprisingly peaceful open space in the middle of the busy bazaar in which to take a…

  • Hammam-e Khan

    Kashan

    Signposted downstairs from the bazaar’s Copper Line, this old hammam now operates as a cosy teahouse bedecked in cushions and period furniture – there's…

  • Kalantar House

    Iran

    As yet it's still a building site, but already this Qajar-era house's seven-tiered windtower has been converted into what appear to be rooms, and by 2018…

  • Godot Cafe

    Tehran

    Hanging baskets of plants create a fresh, garden feel to the arched entranceway to this cafe named after one of Samuel Beckett's most famous characters…

  • Markov Cafe Gallery

    Tehran

    Occupying a small wing of the old red-brick prison at Qsar Garden Museum, this is one of two pleasant cafes overlooking the surrounding sculpture park…

  • Cafe Fiore

    Iran

    For barista-style espressos (IR70,000 to IR110,000) and even masala chai, seek out this appealing little 21st-century coffeehouse, tucked around the…

  • Cafe Night Star

    Iran

    Expertly made barista-quality coffee (from IR70,000) with a view of the tower from the open terrace (albeit through electricity wires).

  • Sonati Kohan

    Southeastern Iran

    At the rear of a preserved semi-historic building, this tea garden throws together an intriguing, stylistic mishmash of palm-frond shelters, old niche…

  • Marseille Cafe

    Esfahan

    This friendly, family-run little coffee shop is devoted to coffee in a country devoted to tea. Most of the beans are sourced from Brazil, and a range of…

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