Restaurants in Iran
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A
Taj Mahal
In the hotel of the same name, the Taj has a reputation for serving the best Indian food in Iran. The curries here are mouth-watering and there is a good range of vegetarian options. Pity about the location.
reviewed
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Yord Cultural Complex
In an enormous colourful yord (tent) about 8km northwest of town, this complex not only offers the chance to enjoy some fine Iranian-nomad food, but also to experience the Qashqa’i culture. The warm atmosphere, colourful costumes, live music and delicious food afford a dreamy escape from modern life into a Qashqa’i tented embrace. Yord is almost impossible to reach by public transport, so ask your hotel to write the name in Farsi and get a taxi (about IR25,000); it is also worth paying the taxi to wait for you (about IR70,000 total) as taxis out here are rare indeed.
reviewed
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B
Gilac
The ambience, décor, music and food presentation at Gilac are more reminiscent of Europe than Iran. But the delicious food is wonderfully Caspian. It’s a favourite of vegetarians, with the mirza ghasemi (IR22,000), borani bademjan (IR25,000) and dokhtar-e luce (‘spoilt girl’, IR27,000) starters all delicious; in combination, they’d happily make a meal on their own. The fish and veal dishes are also excellent.
reviewed
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C
Ananda Vegetarian Restaurant & Coffee Shop
Way up in north Tehran the Ananda is a gem if you’re a vegetarian, and delightful even if you’re not. Run in association with the Iranian Society of Vegetarians, there’s no chance of finding rogue bits of meat here and the food is both delicious and cheap. We can recommend the Ananda lasagne (IR35,000) and Ananda calzone (IR33,000), the freshly made salad (no plastic wrap!) and the service and setting.
reviewed
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D
Akbar Mashti Bastani
Akbar Mashti became famous for his ice cream in the 1950s and today his son continues to sell what he modestly describes as ‘the most famous ice cream in Iran and the world’. Try the pistachio bastani (IR7000) and you’ll probably agree.
reviewed
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E
Khayyam Traditional Restaurant
Opposite the Imamzadeh Seyyed Nasreddin Mosque (look for the dome), this beautifully decorated restaurant is an oasis amid the chaos of the bazaar area. Originally part of the mosque, the 300-year-old building was separated when Khayyam St intervened. It was restored in 2002. The typically Iranian food (mainly kabab, chicken and fish) is well prepared and plentiful. But on this visit we felt service had dropped and the 15% service charge on top of all the extras you have to pay for is irritating. Still, for tea, qalyan and sweets (IR25,000) after an outing in the bazaar, it’s hard to beat.
reviewed
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Bastani Restaurant
In the shadow of the Imam Mosque, the Bastani is the best-located restaurant in Esfahan. That, however, is where the compliments end. In recent years the quality of the food has been less consistent. Which is a pity, as the menu is full of interesting-sounding dishes. If you do eat here, the billing can be confusing so check it carefully. It’s a pity, as the menu is full of interesting-sounding dishes and it used to be good. Hopefully it will pick up.
reviewed
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F
Coffee Shop & Vegie Restaurant of Iranian Artists’ Forum
This dedicated vegetarian restaurant is excellent value and a good place to meet young, educated and artistic Tehranis. It’s in a brick building at the southern edge of Park-e Tehran, and has an informal, busy ambience with young people coming and going. Owner Aman promised there would be no mystery meat in the salads (less than IR10,000), sandwiches (IR20,000), pizzas (IR25,000) or khoresht (IR18,000), among others.
reviewed
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G
Azari Traditional Teahouse
This restored ‘coffeehouse’ in south Tehran is wonderfully atmospheric because it remains popular with locals, who use it as an unofficial community centre. The dizi and chicken kababs are rightly popular. A traditional band plays most evenings when the boisterous atmosphere is best enjoyed with a group, and bookings are recommended.
reviewed
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H
Khosbin Restaurant
The no-frills Khosbin serves a refreshing range of Gilani food. Vegetarians should ask for the delicious mirza ghasemi or baghli (a broad bean dish), or perhaps the zeytoun parvardeh (olives marinated in pomegranate juice with crushed walnuts). There’s no English sign; look for the red writing on the front window.
reviewed
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I
Iranian Traditional Restaurant
This underground place is modern Iranian social interaction in microcosm, and full of young Iranians flirting, smoking and eating (in that order) under attractive vaulted and tiled ceilings. The dizi (IR24,000) and kababs are reliably good and well-priced for this location, though at busy times you won’t be allowed to linger.
reviewed
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Seray-e Mehr Teahouse
This is a serendipitous place to find after wandering through the Bazar-e Vakil. Hidden away through a small door behind the Serai Mushir Bazar, the split-level teahouse has a small menu of tasty favourites (think dizi, kubideh, zereshk polo ) and a delightfully relaxed atmosphere in which to sit, sip tea and puff on qalyan.
reviewed
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J
Monsoon
Monsoon has been around for several years now and has a reputation for the best Asian food in Tehran. The fare ranges from Thai curries to sushi, served in an intimate setting and complemented by exceptional service. It’s smart, sophisticated, relatively expensive and very new Tehran – menus only come in English.
reviewed
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Hammam-e Khan Restaurant
Deep in the heart of the old city, this restored underground hammam is one of the original historic restorations in Yazd and deserves its ongoing popularity. The interior is all tranquil pools, arched ceilings and fine tilework, and the food is delicious (as long as it’s not too busy).
reviewed
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K
Hamam-e Vakil Chaykhaneh
This architecturally magnificent subterranean teahouse built in 1820 is easily the most atmospheric dining option in Kerman. It’s better known for its elegant arches and superb vaulted ceilings than its food (lunch only), though it’s not bad. A traditional band plays most days.
reviewed
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L
110 Hamburgers
The best, however, is this place to which Shirazis come like moths to a neon flame (two glowing palm trees). Their version of the shwarma, with meat sliced off a spit and shovelled into a bread roll with healthy bits like tomato and pickle (IR18,000), is good.
reviewed
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Hezardasan
Hezardasan makes a valiant attempt at giving its cellar room that sofrakhane sonati feel, but the overall effect is a little too neat to be memorable. Its delicious qimeh nasar comes mounded into barberry rice.
reviewed
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M
Azam Beryani
Biryani is an Esfahani speciality and this modest little place is a favourite of Esfahanis. Join the queue.
reviewed
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N
Armenian Club
The Armenian Club is almost a one-off in Tehran. Because it’s a Christian establishment, women can legally eat or just hang out sans hejab, and if you can get your hands on something harder than Fanta, it’s fine to BYO and drink it with your meal (sorry, no advice on where to find it). The barbecued sturgeon (IR100,000) and beef stroganoff (IR50,000) are both winners, and the range of kababs goes all the way to ‘Mexican’. The club doesn’t advertise its existence – look for a yellow awning and a tiny buzzer – but welcomes guests. Note that Muslims (at the government’s direction) cannot enter.
reviewed
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O
Hezardestan Traditional Teahouse
Hezardestan is one of Iran’s most beautiful teahouse-restaurants. Carpets, samovars, antique qalyans, cushions and wooden benches are surrounded by walls adorned with scenes from Ferdosi’s Shahnamah. There’s live music most nights, the manager speaks fluent English and the food is pretty good including vegetarian possibilities. Just be prepared for hefty ‘service’ and ‘tea’ charges that can double the bill.
reviewed
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P
Khangostar Restaurant
Located in Julfa Hotel, Khangostar Restaurant offers probably the best food in Esfahan – locals, our own experience and overwhelmingly positive reader feedback can attest to this. Servings are enormous here, (even by Iranian standards!) and the menu large and varied, but mainly Iranian. It’s busy rather than romantic, and the salad and dessert bars might seem a bit Sizzler, but hey, you won’t complain when you get there.
reviewed
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Q
Sharzeh Traditional Restaurant
Talk about atmosphere! The night we ate at the Sharzeh it was going off like the proverbial frog in a sock, with diners singing and clapping along with musicians playing traditional music in the centre of the two-level space. Great fun! The Iranian food was well-prepared, tasty and plentiful. It’s diagonally opposite the entrance to the Vakil Bazaar. There’s no English sign; look for the man in costume outside an arcade.
reviewed
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Chelokababi Tavakol
This would be the backpacker meeting place, if there were any backpackers. Excellent value Iranian food is served in an atmospheric once-grand old bathhouse that’s slightly gone-to-seed. Charming owner Ali Rahban looks somewhat like Dudley Moore, speaks good English and can rustle up eggplant delights for vegetarians. Head downstairs through white-framed doors with coloured glass panels.
reviewed
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R
Kourosh
Kourosh wins no prizes for décor but offers numerous typical Gilani dishes including dill-rich bagilah qotoq, zeitun parvarden (olives in walnut paste) and garlic mast. On a good day the mirza ghasemi (mashed eggplant, squash, garlic, tomato and egg, served with bread or rice) can be superb but the fesenjun (chicken with walnuts) is rather tart.
reviewed
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Homa
Combining the atmosphere of a teahouse with the calm elegance of an upmarket restaurant, Homa has embroidered tablecloths and blue-brick dining niches ranged around a gently trickling fountain. Though not a patch on homemade equivalents, the semi-sweet fesenjun (IR30,000) is ideally complemented by their acidic dugh (churned sour milk or yogurt mixed with water).
reviewed