Bayamo
Come and see Cuban chefs attempt Spanish cuisine – paella and garbanzos (chickpeas). This is a new kind of peso restaurant, with a dress code (no shorts),…
Must-see restaurants in Cuba
Habana Vieja
Squeezed above a busy local bakery in one of Habana Vieja's oldest buildings, this no-frills, light-on-the-wallet place is aimed more at locals than…
Guantánamo Province
A Palmares restaurant reached via a right-hand turnoff before the Toa bridge. You can organize boat or kayak trips (CUC$5 to CUC$10) and watch acrobatic…
Villa Clara Province
If you buy a day pass to enjoy Playas Las Salinas, you'll be eating in the strategically located if gastronomically mediocre Farallón, perched like a bird…
Habana Vieja
The 'Paris' is all about the setting: one of Havana's finest 18th-century baroque mansions, situated slap-bang in the middle of its most beautiful square,…
Santiago de Cuba
Get ready for the Arctic blast of air-conditioning and readjust your Cuban-food preconceptions before you walk into España. It specializes in seafood…
Isla de la Juventud
A dog-eared establishment by the river which, on a good day, serves fresh fish from the river and the sea (Nueva Gerona is one of the few places in Cuba…
Granma Province
Down by the bay is this grillhouse and cabaret thrown into one. It's highly likely neither amenity will blow your mind, but nevertheless, the eating and…
Varadero
Inexplicably, this unspectacular ranchón-style (rustic, opened-sided restaurant) government-run restaurant remains popular, and it's surely something to…
Cienfuegos
The food doesn't have as many decorative flourishes as the eclectic architecture, but the setting is unique and it would be a shame to miss it. Seafood…
Restaurante la Casa de Don Tomás
Viñales
The oldest house in Viñales was once its only independent restaurant, but no more. Nonetheless, with its terracotta roof, terrace and flowering vines, it…
Pinar del Río Province
A rather lavish entrance leads back to a more typical ranchón (rustic, opened-sided restaurant) eating area. Good food, particularly the fish, and a long…
Artemisa & Mayabeque Provinces
This simple place at the start of the path to the waterfall is one of the few independent eating options outside Soroa's hotels and casas particulares …
Las Terrazas
This ranchón (rustic, opened-sided restaurant) set-up offers beer and snacks under a small thatched canopy overlooking Lago Palmar. The Serafina and Las…
Artemisa & Mayabeque Provinces
In a cute clapboard house that was once an elegant hotel lies the best answer to any ferry delay. Dos Hermanos serves straight-up Cuban nosh quickly and…
Habana Vieja
The name might suggest solidarity with 'communist' Vietnam, but don't get too excited: you won't find any Saigon-flavored spring rolls here. Instead, what…
Matanzas
Settle down on the terraza (terrace) with the local students, taxi drivers and hotel workers on a day off, and contemplate everyday life on Plaza de la…
Holguín Province
A long-standing Banes favorite, this state-run place should be newly renovated by the time you visit. With all the usual Creole dishes delivered with a…
Havana
In an upstairs location on Calle Dragones, this place is run by Chi Tack Tong Chinese Association and has long been famous for its extensive menu and…
Guantánamo Province
The plush setting is grand and befitting of Guantánamo's colonial heyday, and the prices are more than reasonable for good food; however, the service…
Holguín
This bar-restaurant inspired by the Mirador de Mayabe's famous beer-drinking donkey has echoes of a Spanish tavern, done up in dark wood. The menu…
Playa Girón
Popular post-dive spot in Playa Girón; an open-sided beach-shack-style opposite the approach road to Hotel Playa Girón. Warm up with a cocktail at the bar…
Las Tunas Province
A coral wall surrounds this small home courtyard with a couple of open-air tables and friendly service. The shady patio is pleasant, but there's no sea…
Havana
Part of the Pizza Nova chain, this place, like much of Marina Hemingway, has seen better days. It's an OK choice if you're short on options (which you…
Matanzas Province
Basic restaurant at the boat dock for Villa Guamá, frequented by swarms of tourists bused in from Varadero. The house specialty is crocodile steak made…
Santiago de Cuba
In the former Bacardí residence you can dine on the standard chicken, fish or pork for Cuban pesos in a plush dining room that recently recovered its fin…
Holguín Province
Both casa and private restaurant, this place has an amazing interior patio with frescoes, a gazebo and hand-painted Gibara doors. It rents rooms, but the…
Santiago de Cuba
Upstairs in a typical narrow Santiago street on the cusp of the city center, Compay Gallo does classic Cuban food with mixed results. Try the prawn…
Habana del Este
This scruffy place is part of Villa Los Pinos, but it'll serve you its OK-ish fish dishes and pizzas either on a breezy 1st-floor terrace or under…
Ciego de Ávila Province
Who needs fancy food when you're eating in the city's most atmospheric colonial building? A neat Wild West–style saloon bar opens onto a colonnaded patio…
Habana del Este
Located near Villa Los Pinos, this place serves up a reasonably good pizza-fest, plus cannelloni, lasagna, salads and spaghetti. Ideal for beach day…
Cayo Levisa
Your only dining option on Cayo Levisa is this restaurant at the Hotel Cayo Levisa. A buffet lunch is usually included for day-trippers. The food isn't…
Camagüey
Just off Plaza de los Trabajadores, Cubita is alfresco and lively. And it really does stay open all hours, offering cold beer and 3am ropa vieja (shredded…
Santa Clara
The Santa Clara branch of this Cuban mini-chain has icy air-conditioning and friendly, helpful staff. It's generally packed with young students and serves…
Pinar del Río Province
Pinar del Río's colorful open-air market is almost on top of the tracks near the train station. You'll occasionally see the odd tour group tramping…
Habana del Este
This is a spick-and-span place at Guanabo's western, Boca Ciega end, with a full wine rack (French and Californian), checked tablecloths and a good…
Restaurante Mural de la Prehistoria
Valle de Viñales
Steep but almost worth it, the Mural's humongous set lunch – tasty pork roasted and smoked over natural charcoal – is an obligatory stop for practically…
Viñales
A fairly modest restaurant with a rarely crowded terrace overlooking the main drag, with kind and friendly staff plying plentiful if mediocre food – a mix…
Las Tunas
A largely local place with highly reasonable prices and equally reasonable food. The mains are primarily comida criollla (Creole food), but it also does…
Granma Province
Utter simplicity – sit on this shady deck facing the waterfront for whole fried fish served with plantain chips. It's on the edge of town at the far end…
