Restaurants in Jiāngsū
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Lǜyáng Húntundiàn
Founded in 1802, Lǜyáng moved here in 1999 and continues to satisfy ever-hungry local appetites with wonton dumplings ( 馄饨, húntun, Y8 to Y15), fried rice dishes ( 炒饭, chǎofàn, Y12 to Y15) and soups ( 汤, tāng, Y8 to Y12). No English menu, but try yínyú húntun ( 银鱼馄饨, whitebait wonton soup, Y15), gālí jīdīng chǎofàn ( 咖喱鸡丁炒饭, curry-flavoured chicken fried rice, Y15) or yāxuè fěnsī tāng ( 鸭血粉丝汤, duck’s blood soup, Y8). They also do delicious steamed dumplings ( 小笼包, xiǎolóngbāo, Y8 for four dumplings). Pay first at the counter, then hand your slip to a waitress.
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A
Sìchuān Jiǔjiā
This is a terrific place to sample local dishes and rub shoulders with locals. Cheap, local dining is on the 1st floor: there's yánshuǐ yā (盐水鸭; Nánjīng pressed duck; Y10), dàndànmiàn (担担面; spicy noodles; Y3.50), chā shāo (叉烧; pork slices; Y10), tèsè tāngpā (煎饺; special soup dumplings; Y5) and jiānjiǎo (煎饺; fried dumplings; Y4.50), Suāncàiyú (酸菜鱼; fish-and-cabbage soup; Y28) and other Sìchuān dishes are on the smarter, much pricier 2nd floor. There's no English sign, so look for the bright-red building and the sign with dancing chilli peppers. Order and pay at the counter, and watch the chefs bustle around the kitchen.
reviewed
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Zhūhóngxìng
One of Sūzhōu’s most popular noodle joints, this canteen-style place was founded in 1934 and moved here in 2000. If you can’t decipher the badly translated English menu, try; ‘braise the meat noodles’ ( 焖蹄浇面; mèntí jiāomiàn; Y15) – noodles with pig trotters – or; ‘burst the and braise the meat noodles’ ( 虾仁煲鳝面; xiārén bāoshànmiàn; Y35) – which is actually the restaurant’s speciality seafood noodle dish with prawn and eel.
reviewed
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B
Bookworm
Set back from Shiquan Jie, over the other side of the canal, and housed in an attractive white-washed, two-storey building, Bookworm makes a smart choice for a coffee stop. Like its popular Běijīng branch, this one also has a fantastic range of English-language books, some of which are for sale, and hosts occasional cultural events (check the website for details). The Western-friendly food is pricy. Has wi-fi.
reviewed
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C
Great Nánjīng Eatery
This old-style teahouse is a popular place to try yummy local snacks, such as yāxiě fěnsī tāng (鸭血粉丝汤; duck-blood soup with rice noodles) or dòufu nǎo (豆腐脑; salty custardlike tofu). There's no English sign, so look for the two large stone lions out the front and the wooden bridge (!) just behind the huge red double doors.
reviewed
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Gold and Silver
This is one of many small restaurants around Nánjīng University that cook up inexpensive home-style Chinese dishes. There's an extensive English menu and the owner is very friendly. On the walls are hundreds of pictures of foreigners who've frequented the place over the years.
reviewed
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Mario's Pizza Ristorante Bar Caffe
If you get a hankering for something Italian, head to this simple little place near the North Temple Pagoda. Mario's is by far the best place to eat continental cuisine in Sūzhōu. Try one of its authentic pizzas or pasta dishes - the sauces are all homemade and fabulous.
reviewed
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Sōnghé Lóu
This 200- year-old restaurant is the most famous in town and supposedly Emperor Qianlong's favourite when he came to visit. Here you can choose from a variety of Sūzhōu-style dishes, including the popular mandarin fish. Food is good but expensive and service can be brusque.
reviewed
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Bǐ’àn
Housed in a gorgeous wooden building that juts out slightly over the water, Bǐ’àn is the cutest of a bunch of canal-side cafes along Pingjiang Lu. There’s beer (from Y18) and a huge selection of tea. Has wi-fi.
reviewed
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Skyways Bakery & Deli
For fresh-baked bread, sandwiches and coffee, head to this small deli owned by the same people who manage the restaurant Swede and Kraut. There's a useful bulletin board with notices posting what's happening around town.
reviewed
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D
Henry's Home Cafe
Henry's is a mainstay in Nánjīng, serving up good pasta, pizza, fajitas and steak dishes. Service is competent and it accommodates vegetarians. There's another branch just outside Shīzi Qiáo.
reviewed
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Yángyáng Shuǐjiǎoguǎn
In this unassuming mom-and-pop eatery you can feast on a dozen tasty boiled dumplings (水饺; shuǐjiǎo) for a mere Y5. The restaurant also serves inexpensive veggie and meat dishes.
reviewed
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Bǎochén Fàndiàn
If you’re fed up with all the restaurants around here closing before you’re even hungry, this one’s open all night. It specialises in dishes from Yúnnán province. English menu.
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E
Bella Napoli Italian Restaurant
This place claims to be the most authentic Italian restaurant in town, with a variety of delicious handmade pastas, pizzas and other entrees. Try its delicious ravioli with ricotta and spinach.
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7&7
This large, cafeteria-style restaurant near the park in the Guanqian Jie pedestrian area has a line up of stir-fries, noodle dishes and steamed breads to choose from, all at rock-bottom prices.
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F
Déyuè Lóu
Across the way from Zhūhóngxìng Miànguǎn, this place has been around since the Ming dynasty, with a menu featuring over 300 items and an emphasis on freshwater fish. It's a popular stop for tour groups and for large wedding parties, and feels a little over the top at times.
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Swede and Kraut
For tasty pasta dishes, pizza and salads, you can't beat this popular university hangout. Portions are large and service is amicable. Booster seats are available for kids here.
reviewed
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10,000 Buddhas Vegetarian Restaurant
Just east of the Presidential Palace on Meiyuan Lu, this temple has a restaurant that offers tasty mock-meat dishes in contemplative surroundings.
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Shǔxiāng Guǎn
Tea house by day, quiet bar by night, this place sometimes has free performances of píngtán during the afternoons.
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Zhūhóngxìng Miànguǎn
Popular with locals, this eatery, with several branches across town, has a long history and wholesome, filling noodles – try the xiānglà páigǔmiàn (香辣排骨面; salty pork and noodles; Y15) or the scrummy cōngyóu xiānggūmiàn (葱油香菇面, onion oil and mushroom noodles, Y10). Note: there's no English menu.
reviewed
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Yǒnghé Yuán
Not far from the decorative arch roughly halfway along Gongyuan Jie, this long-serving food court is low on decor but that doesn't stop the crowds from packing in. It serves a great range of tasty snacks, from páigǔ miàn (排骨面; spare ribs and noodles; Y15) and xiānròu húntun (鲜肉馄饨; meat dumplings; Y5) to wǔxiāng dàn (五香蛋; five-flavour eggs; Y1), xiaolong dumplings (Y14) and the local favourite yāxiě fěnsī tāng (Y8). Grab a tray, order your dishes, take them to the cashier and pay.
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Yàkèxī
The Uighur kitsch atmosphere is entertaining and the Xīnjiāng staples – lamb kebabs (Y2.50), hot and spicy lamb soup (Y16) and nang bread (Y3) – all tasty. Round it off with a bottle of SinKiang beer (Y10) or a sour milk drink (Y8) and dream of Kashgar. No time to sit down? The lamb kebabs are grilled just outside.
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Xīshèngyuán
Crowds pay and gather near the entrance to wait for the steaming fresh xǐaolóng bāo (小龙包; soup dumplings; Y6) to come out of the kitchen. If you don't want to jostle, grab a seat and order several other great dishes including assorted húntūn (馄饨; dumplings; Y6 to Y10).
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G
Pingvon
A cute little teahouse perched beside one of Sūzhōu's most popular canalside streets. Pingvon serves up excellent dumplings and delicate little morsels in baskets and on small plates. Try the green tea Buddha biscuit and pan-fried dumplings.
reviewed
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Fùchūn Cháshè
One of Yángzhōu's most famous and crowded teahouses, this place is on a lane just off Guoqing Lu, in an older section of town. Try an assorted plate of its famous dumplings for Y30.
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