Must-see restaurants in West Africa

  • La Maison des Combattants

    Abidjan

    Next to the war memorial, this restaurant housed in a renovated colonial building has a great range of dishes, including escargot, sauce feuille (manioc…

  • Le Plein Air

    Côte d'Ivoire

    A simple maquis (open-air restaurant) in Taï town. You can get the usual grilled chicken or fish with aloco (ripe bananas fried with chilli in palm oil)…

  • McDonald

    Burkina Faso

    This cool den off the main drag boasts an inviting covered terrace and a vividly decorated interior. It churns out a good range of satisfying dishes,…

  • Hai King

    Cotonou

    One of Cotonou's older Chinese restaurants, this has an atmospheric covered roof terrace overlooking the bustling Carrefour de Cadjéhoun, a row of red…

  • Allocodrome

    Abidjan

    Brochettes (kebabs), beer and beats: this fantastic outdoor spot, with dozens of vendors grilling meats, sizzles until late. Once you arrive you'll be…

  • Maquis Pili Pili

    Cotonou

    This well-run eatery rates equally highly with Beninese and expats for its amazing West African food. Prices are very reasonable and the jugs of freshly…

  • Brochettes de la Capitale

    Lomé

    This Lomé institution is somewhat suffering from its popularity and location on the increasingly polluted Blvd Circulaire, but it's still a cool place to…

  • Le Marlin Bleu

    Abidjan

    An upmarket, yachting-orientated seafood restaurant (ignore the hotel!) that has fresh fish and luxurious seafood offerings. Popular with the expats. In a…

  • Belvédère

    Conakry

    The large garden is a favourite for family parties and live concerts. The menu is made of fast-food staples, but the garden space is pleasant and as good…

  • Le Petit Dakar

    Guinea

    It's hardly haute cuisine but the Petit Dakar, which doubles as a corner shop, stands out for its friendly vibe. Food is of the burger and greasy-fried…

  • La Pyramide

    Burkina Faso

    This maquis (open-air restaurant) on the main street is a Pô institution, with regal service and delicious daily specials (grilled chicken, couscous,…

  • Chez Mahi

    Benin

    Locals swear by this restaurant, just south of Pl Kokoyé. It's not an attractive place (bare concrete walls), but the mashed yam is excellent and the…

  • Maquis Flamboyant

    Côte d'Ivoire

    You can find great attiéké (grated cassava) – a slightly bitter, couscous-like dish – and brochettes (grilled meat or fish cubes) in this low-key eatery.

  • Abidjan Cafe

    Abidjan

    This Plateau dining hall has a good French menu, featuring everything from local grilled fish to fois gras and créme brûlèe infused with Nutella.

  • Mille Maquis

    Abidjan

    Don't miss this energy-infused local strip of different maquis (rustic open-air restaurants) offering fresh Ivoirian dishes served with a side of banter.

  • Le Flamboyant

    Burkina Faso

    One of the town's better maquis, right in the centre of town; expect the usual rice or tô (millet- or sorghum-based pâte) with sauce.

  • Esperance Maquis

    Benin

    This is a bit of a mix of African and European fare. Decent schwarma, basic rice and beans plus a fish of the day is served up in this friendly little…

  • Drogba Beach

    Côte d'Ivoire

    A nice and simple maquis on the beach, popular with local families at the weekends. Rustic Ivoirian food is served at the simple wooden terrace.

  • Pastelaria Central

    São Tomé

    It's a bare affair, with a few pastries and passable coffee, but this is the only downtown cafe with wi-fi and ai-rcon, making it a lifesaver at times.

  • Lomé La Belle

    Lomé

    You'll find all the usual Togolese favourites served in hearty portions at this informal joint right in the centre. It has outdoor seating.

  • Le Brennus

    Côte d'Ivoire

    Part of Le Brennus hotel, this restaurant offers anything from simple omelettes to steamed lobster.

  • Boulangerie-Pâtisserie

    Cotonou

    The bread, croissants, éclairs and cakes from this little bakery next to the Air France office can rival those of any French bakery.

  • Hippopotamus

    Abidjan

    French bistro chain Hippopotamus provides Le Plateau's business population with steak frites, cocktails and decent burgers.

  • Campement de Niansogoni

    Burkina Faso

    Meals and cold Brakina beer are available in a lovely garden setting. It's a great place to meet local people over food and drinks.

  • Maquis le Jardin

    Côte d'Ivoire

    More upmarket and expensive than the other maquis clustered by the lake – the excellent food here makes it worthwhile.

  • Mille Maquis

    Abidjan

    An excellent local strip of maquis (rustic open-air restaurants) serving Ivoirian dishes in a jolly, lively atmosphere.

  • Leader Price

    Lomé

    This basic supermarket has a wide variety of options. It's a solid spot to stock up on picnic supplies and other essentials.

  • Des Gateaux et Du Pain

    Abidjan

    This patisserie offers exactly what it says: great, freshly baked breads, chocolate puddings and divine fruit-topped cakes.

  • Bobby's

    Liberia

    Bobby's tea shop does the best breakfasts in town: think beans, spaghetti, instant coffee and greasy egg baps.

  • Hypermarché Sococé

    Abidjan

    At this vast supermarket in Les Deux Plateaux you can get anything your heart desires. Food-wise, anyway.

  • La Route de la Cuisine

    Côte d'Ivoire

    The chef here throws the day's catch on the grill – sometimes it includes swordfish and barracuda.

  • Supermarché le Point

    Cameroon

    Handy supermarket in Bafoussam, at the opposite end of Rue de Marché to Boulangerie La Paix.

  • Marina Market

    Burkina Faso

    Great range of grocery items – ideal for stocking up ahead of picnics and bus journeys.

  • Cash Center

    Abidjan

    A well-stocked supermarket from the Cash Center chain. More can be found around town.

  • Florida Restaurant

    Liberia

    This is a popular meeting spot that serves cheap Liberian dishes and European mains.

  • A La Bella Pizza

    Côte d'Ivoire

    Serves great pastas, crêpes and local fare, as well as its namesake pizzas.

  • Restorante Galloufa

    Mauritania

    Laid-back Spanish restaurant, with a heavy (and oily) emphasis on seafood.

  • Ali Baba Restaurant

    Bissau

    No-frills place open to the street that serves up grilled meat quickly.

  • La Pointe

    Cotonou

    One of a number of good supermarkets around Marché Ganhi.