Togo
If you're not eating at your hotel, try this basic snack bar, where the menu spells out every possible combination of meat and side dish. It's BYO beer.
Must-see restaurants in West Africa
Guinea-Bissau
Moved from its previous location, this place is run by a friendly Portuguese family. Head there for hearty fare and a glimpse into Bafatá's past.
Mauritania
Near the rond-point, this cheap and cheerful eatery rustles up some good couscous and tajines as well as sandwiches and lighter bites.
Bissau
It's made from a cut-out container and buzzes with Guineans of all ranks and incomes, all eager to sample Mamadou's reliably delicious meals.
Cameroon
Limbe's best spot for breakfast if your hotel doesn't serve it. Here you'll find life's essentials such as fresh-baked pastries and coffee.
Mauritania
Largest and nicest supermarket in Nouâdhibou with an upstairs cafe where regulars go for coffee, pastries and catch football games on TV.
Conakry
Two dozen different flavours of homemade ice creams fill the freezers of this bubbly pink cafe that attracts well-to-do locals and expats.
Banjul
Banjul's main snack bar has a deserved reputation for tasty shwarma (sliced, grilled meat and salad in pita bread) and felafel sandwiches.
Nouakchott
Known around town, at least within the expat community, as one of the best places for steak in Nouakchott. Also serves some Asian dishes.
Cabo Verde
Popular lunchtime spot that locals storm for good and inexpensive daily specials (a deal at CVE400). It's simple, down home and friendly.
Nouakchott
Groups gather in the pleasant back patio courtyard for a meal and hookah. Savana has a fairly large menu, with above-average pizzas.
Sierra Leone
You could hardly call it refined, but if it's tasty and cheap fried chicken you're after, this is a good place to head for.
Cameroon
This bakery sells good bread and sticky sweet treats in the morning, and is a handy general food shop the rest of the day.
São Tomé
Occupying a prime location on the edge of the bay, that unmistakable blue box is a surprisingly enormous supermarket.
Mauritania
Above-average seafood and more-standard meat and chicken dishes; located inside the Italian-owned Hotel Mauritalia.
Rio Muni
One of the only places to eat in Rio Campo, the Pescaderia Bar has snacks and is in the southern part of the town.
Casamance
Self-caterers can buy all the fresh fruit and vegetables they can carry at this market near the waterfront.
Benin
This eatery overlooking the beach has garnered high praise for its ultra-fresh fish and seafood platters.
Banjul
Friendly, fresh and happy to relax its opening hours, this place serves delicious meze and pressed juice.
Senegal
A local favourite, Chez Poulo serves up Senegalese dishes in modest digs not far from the beach.
Mindelo
One of several handy Fragata supermarkets in the centre. This one is particularly well stocked.
Sal
Found on the square, this is a good old-fashioned cafe-bar that serves simple meals and drinks.
Cabo Verde
Tereru di Kultura has a lovely oceanfront terrace and small menu of seafood and pizzas.
Mauritania
Named for the city's football team and considered to have the best pizza in town.
Serekunda & Atlantic Coast Resorts
Load up on provisions at this well-stocked supermarket on Kairaba Ave.
Benin
This unpretentious maquis, with no more than a couple of wooden benches, is famous for one thing and one thing only: porc grillé sauce sang (grilled pork…
Burkina Faso
With an open-air terrace, great prices and a wide-ranging menu specialising in African dishes, Mandé is an excellent deal. If you just eat riz sauce (rice…
Ouagadougou
This Ouagadougou institution is run by an order of nuns and promises an air-conditioned haven from the clamour outside; there's also a garden dining area…
Burkina Faso
Sister restaurant to Mandé, Dankin serves a loyal base of local customers, who come for the simple West African dishes – riz gras or riz arachide (rice…
Cotonou
Great-value local food. More an upmarket African eatery than a maquis, this hugely popular venture serves a good mix of local classics such as ndole (a…
Ouagadougou
The Institut Français' gorgeous restaurant is a lovely spot for lunch: sit in colourful raffia chairs under the modern paillote (straw awning) and tuck…
Ouagadougou
You'll find no cheaper place for a sit-down meal in the city centre. Order a riz gras (rice with a tomato sauce), a tô (millet- or sorghum-based pâte) or…
Côte d'Ivoire
A fantastic little place on the waterfront in Assinie Mafia, serving up Ivoirian specialities such as chicken kedjenou (slowly simmered chicken or fish…
Cotonou
Fill up on poulet moyo at this crazily popular lunch joint set up under an awning and corrugated iron roof. Plates are piled high with chicken, aloko …
Conakry
Tucking into fresh barbecued fish or spice infused local dishes here, where diners eat out under bendy coconut trees overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, it…
