Thousand Islands Region

Introducing Thousand Islands Region

Virtually unknown to downstate New Yorkers, in part because of its relative inaccessibility, this region of over 1800 islands – from tiny outcroppings just large enough to lie down on to larger islands with roads and towns – is a scenic wonderland separating the US from Canada. From its source in the Atlantic Ocean far to the north, the wide and deceptively fast moving St Lawrence River East empties into Lake Ontario at Cape Vincent. This portion of the river was once a summer playground for the very rich, who built large, stately homes here. It is still a popular vacation area known for its boating, camping and even shipwreck scuba diving.

Sackets Harbor was the site of a major battle during the War of 1812. While it is on Lake Ontario and not technically part of the Thousand Islands, it is a convenient starting point for touring the region. The centrally located and friendly Ontario Place Hotel (315-646-8000; 103 General Smith Dr; d from $80; wi-fi) has comfortable, well-kept rooms. Several good restaurants line the street that runs down to the harbor front including Tin Pan Galley (315-646-3812; 110 West Main St; sandwiches $9; 8am-9pm Tue-Thu, 8am-9:30pm Fri, 7am-10pm Sat, 7am-12:45pm Sun) which has a lovely outdoor garden patio.

The relaxing, French-heritage village of Cape Vincent is at the western end of the river where it meets the lake. Drive out to the Tibbetts Point Lighthouse for stunning lake views; an attractive hostel (315-654-3450; lighthousehostel@tds.net; dm $18) shares the property. Nearby Burnham Point State Park (315-654-2324; Rte 12E; campsites $25) has wooded, lakeside campsites.

Clayton, 15 miles to the east along the Seaway Trail, has more than a dozen marinas and a few good eating choices in an area generally bereft of them. TI Adventures (315-686-2500; www.tiadventures.com; 1011 State St; half-day kayak rental $30) rents kayaks and runs whitewater rafting trips down the Black River. Such activities are also organized by several companies in Watertown, a sizeable city half an hour’s drive to the south.

The owner/chef of friendly Bella’s (315-686-2341; 602 Riverside Dr, Clayton; mains $6; 8am-3pm daily, 6-9pm Thu-Sat), does excellent breakfast and lunch. Lyric Coffee House (315-686-4700; 246 James St, Clayton; 8am-10pm, Mon-Sat, 1-10pm Sun; wi-fi), surprisingly modern for this town, serves specialty coffee drinks, gelato and pastries.

Further east, Alexandria Bay (Alex Bay), an early-20th-century resort town, is still the center of tourism on the American side – its sister city is Gananoque in Canada. While it is run down and tacky, there’s enough around to keep you occupied: go-karts, mini-golf and a drive-in movie theater (baydrivein.com) are only minutes away. It’s also the departure point for ferries to Heart Island, where Boldt Castle (800-847-5263; www.boldtcastle.com; adult/child $5.75/3.50; 10am-6:30pm mid-May−mid-Oct) marks the sad love story of a rags-to-riches New York hotelier who built the castle for his beloved wife, who then died before its completion. The same hotelier once asked his chef to create a new salad dressing, which was popularized as ‘Thousand Island’ – an unfortunate blend of ketchup, mayonnaise and relish. Uncle Sam’s Boat Tours (800-253-9299; www.unclesamboattour.com, 45 James St; 2 Nation tour adult/child $16/8, Two Castle Tour adults/children $28/14) has several departures daily for its recommended two-nation cruise which allows you to stop at Boldt Castle and ride back on one of its half-hourly ferries for free.

Camping, especially at the Wellesley Island State Park (518-474-0456; www.nysparks.com; campsite $19) is probably the best sleeping option even for the raccoon averse. Many sites are almost directly on the riverfront and some have their own ‘private’ beaches. Reservations are recommended in the high season. The island is only accessible by crossing a toll portion ($2.50) of the Thousand Islands Bridge. There is a small convenience store/diner on the way to the campgrounds, but your best bet is to stock up on supplies at one of the large grocery stores in Alex Bay or Clayton.

There are several supposedly upscale resorts around Alex Bay, though none is especially good value. Probably the best midrange choice is Capt. Thomson’s Resort (315-482-9961; www.captthomsons.com; 47 James St; d from $75; wi-fi) on the waterfront next to the office for Uncle Sam’s Boat Tours.

Ogdensburg, 37 miles north of Alex Bay, is the birthplace of Frederic Remington (1861−1909), an artist who romanticized the American West in paintings and sculpture. The Frederic Remington Art Museum (315-393-2425; www.fredericremington.org; 303 Washington St, Ogdensburg, NY; admission $8; 11am-5pm Wed-Sat, from 1pm Sun) has some of his sculptures, paintings and personal effects.

Last updated: Jul 22, 2009