Restaurants in The Black Sea & Northeastern Anatolia
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Erzurum Evleri
A stunner set in an old wooden house near the main drag. It feels like half the paraphernalia from six centuries of the Ottoman Empire has ended up here, with an onslaught of kilims (pileless woven rugs), pictures, weapons, farming tools and other collectibles from floor to ceiling. Surrender to the languor of the private alcoves with cushions and low tables and treat yourself to a soup, a börek (filled pastry) or a tandır kebap (stew). The nearby Daşhane, which has the same management, features live music on Friday and Saturday evenings. If only it was licensed!
reviewed
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Güzelyurt Restorant
This iconic restaurant, in business since 1928, is so adorable because it feels so anachronistic, with shrouded windows, old-fashioned charm and thick carpets. It's also a great place to spill money on a great meal. The mezes are a headliner, with about 20 different specialities, but the menu also features a smattering of mains, including 'Bof Straganof' (no typo), all served by old-school, bow-tied waiters. It's licensed as well.
reviewed
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Ocakbaşı Restoran
Resisting the passage of time, this well-established restaurant remains at the pinnacle of Kars' eating scene. The ali nazık (aubergine purée with yoghurt and meat) or the Anteplim pide (sesame bread stuffed with meat, cheese, parsley, nuts and eggs), its two signature dishes, should win awards. The pictorial menu, with fairly accurate English translations, is of great help. It has two adjoining rooms, including a mock troglodytic one (wow!), but it's not licensed (boo!).
reviewed
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Vatan Lokantası
Don't expect culinary revelations in this snappy joint, just the usual suspects honestly prepared and served by attentive waiters. Grab a tavuk şiş and satisfy the inner self.
reviewed
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Sütçü Fevzi
Sütçü Fevzi has a few tables set up outside. Sütçü Fevzi will give you a typical Van breakfast experience. Van is famed for its tasty kahvaltı (breakfast). Skip the usually bland breakfast that is served in your hotel and head straight to Eski Sümerbank Sokak, also called 'Kahvaltı Sokak' (Breakfast St), a pedestrianised side street running parallel to Cumhuriyet Caddesi.
Drool over otlu peynir (cheese mixed with a tangy herb, Van's speciality), beyaz peynir (a mild yellow cheese), honey from the highlands (mmm!), olives, kayma (clotted cream), butter, tomatoes, cucumbers and yumurta (eggs).
reviewed
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Sütçü Kenan
Sütçü Kenan has a few tables set up outside. Sütçü Kenan will give you a typical Van breakfast experience. Van is famed for its tasty kahvaltı (breakfast). Skip the usually bland breakfast that is served in your hotel and head straight to Eski Sümerbank Sokak, also called 'Kahvaltı Sokak' (Breakfast St), a pedestrianised side street running parallel to Cumhuriyet Caddesi.
Drool over otlu peynir (cheese mixed with a tangy herb, Van's speciality), beyaz peynir (a mild yellow cheese), honey from the highlands (mmm!), olives, kayma (clotted cream), butter, tomatoes, cucumbers and yumurta (eggs).
reviewed
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Bistro Kars
The Bistro Kars captures the hearts and tummies of well-heeled locals and visitors alike. The list of meze gallops through patlıcan (aubergine), yoghurt, pepper, salads and other goodies that are too hard to pronounce - all irresistibly fresh. You can also dig into well-executed meat and fish dishes and wash it all down with a glass of wine or a beer (hallelujah!).
The dining room is an enchanting mix of elegance and rustic charm, but on a hot summer's day the breezy terrace is a sure winner.
reviewed
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Kılıçoğlu
It's difficult for even the staunchest dieter to pass by the tantalising display of treats – they're presented almost as beautifully as a jewellery store – offered by this slick pastry shop and ice-cream parlour. If you can resist the squishy fıstıklı (pistachio) baklavas, you're just not human.
reviewed
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Saçi Beyaz Et Lokantası
With an appetising selection of pastries and other delicacies, carb lovers should make this pastry shop their first port of call. The vast, vivacious terrace is usually packed to bursting with Van's movers and shakers in the late afternoon. Snacks, pasta and grills available are routinely devoured in the upstairs restaurant section.
reviewed
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Gizem Cafe & Patisserie
This snazzy pastry shop with polished surrounds is something of a treasure-trove for carb-lovers, with lots of ravishing cakes, baklavas and ice creams. The upstairs salon is a good place to make eye contact (and eye contact only) with Turkish students of both sexes, here to enjoy the atmosphere, gossip and giggle. And if you travel with a laptop (and we're guessing you do), you'll be pleased to know that it has free wi-fi access.
reviewed
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Besse
If you're in search of a bit of sophistication, Besse fits the bill perfectly. It is done out in soothing yellow tones and features parquet flooring and dim lights. The kitchen turns out superior cooking, with an emphasis on grills, salads and stews - try the excellent ali nazik, Besse's signature dish. It's deep in the heart of a vibrant area on the 1st floor of a bland building. If only alcohol was available!
reviewed
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Safa 3, Çorba 1 Paça Salonu
If you're an adventurous foodie, head to this quirky little restaurant. Regulars swear by the kelle (mutton's head) – the spicy lentil soup is more approachable.
reviewed
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Yöresel Yemek Evi
This establishment is run by an association of Kurdish women whose husbands are imprisoned. They prepare lip-smacking yöresel (traditional) meals at bargain-basement prices. Servers speak minimal English but do their best to explain the contents of their stainless-steel trays to the clueless. The döner kebap is also worth every bite.
reviewed
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Çift Mağara
The dining room is directly carved into the rocky bluff that overlooks the Gölbaşı, but the lovely terrace for dining alfresco beats the cavernous interior (views!). It's famed for its delicious içli köfte.
reviewed
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Hasankeyf Saklıkent Aile Kebap Lahmacun & Pide Salonu
Serious travelling or hiking requires serious nourishment and this buzzing eatery east of the main drag gets the thumbs up for its invigorating fare - the Saklıkent kebap, with a bit of everything, will assuage all hunger pangs. The décor is a bit kitsch (a mock cavern and walls adorned with cheesy frescoes) but after so many neon-lit establishments you may find it almost stylish.
reviewed
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Gel-Gör Cağ Kebabı
This charismatic Erzurum eatery specialises in cağ kebap (mutton grilled on a horizontal spit) served with small plates of salad, onions and yoghurt. It's a concept that's been a cult since 1975, so dedicated carnivores can't go wrong here.
reviewed
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Tamara Ocakbaşı
A meal here is dizzying, especially for carnivores. In the Hotel Tamara, the dining room eatery features 40 ocak – each table has its own grill. Mood lighting adds a touch of atmosphere in the evening. High-quality meat and fish dishes feature prominently, but the list of meze is equally impressive. The attached North Shield pub is a slice of ersatz Tyneside in southeastern Turkey.
reviewed
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Küçükbey Konağı
Set in a rambling old mansion-turned-cafe, this welcoming oasis is popular with students of both sexes, here to gossip, flirt and puff a nargileh (traditional water pipe). Food-wise, it features simple dishes and some nibbles, but it's the atmosphere that most come to ingest. It's tucked away in a side street off the main drag.
reviewed
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Selim Amca'nın Sofra Salonu
This bright eatery outside the city walls is famous for its kaburga dolması (lamb stuffed with rice and almonds). Round it off with a devilish İrmik helvası (a gooey dessert). The saç kavurma (braised lamb) is also excellent.
reviewed
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Küçe Başı Et Lokantası
This outfit has a wide-ranging menu and original setting (the room at the back is designed like a rustic barn). Try innovative dishes like tavuk tava (deep-fried chicken meat in a flat-bottomed pan).
reviewed
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Mevlana Kuruyemiş
Trabzon's renowned kuruyemiş (dried fruit) vendor also sells lokum (Turkish delight), helva (a traditional sweet made from sesame seeds), pestil (sheets of dried fruit) and excellent kestane balı (chestnut honey).
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Divan's
Off the main drag, this restaurant-café-fast-food joint is a judiciously laid-out complex, where you can nosh on burgers, pizzas, ready-made meals and kebaps. With its fountain and breezy outdoor seating, it's a great place to loll after a day's sightseeing. For an energy bolt, slug down a freshly squeezed orange juice.
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Çardaklı Köşk
This old house has been so restored it feels almost new. Food is only so-so – the real wow is the view over Gölbaşı from the upstairs terrace. No accommodation.
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Fasıl Ocakbaşı
This place is housed in an unsightly concrete building, at a major intersection. Never mind, the interior is much more elegant, with parquet floors, dark wood furniture, earthy tones and large windows. The menu covers enough territory to please most palates but results can be patchy.
reviewed
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Antep Ocakbaşı
This eatery is up some stairs in an unremarkable block. The stomach-groaning menu features all the usual suspects, including mezes, pide, grills and kebaps. The crowd ranges from chattering families to giggling students and crusty old men, giving the place a nice buzz.
reviewed
