Must-see restaurants in Istanbul

  • Sofyalı 9

    Beyoğlu

    Tables at this meyhane (tavern) are hot property on a Friday or Saturday night, when locals flock here to enjoy the tasty food and convivial atmosphere…

  • Asmalı Cavit

    Beyoğlu

    Cavit Saatcı's place is an old-style meyhane (tavern) that, like other old-timers on this street, has stood the test of time and retained a loyal local…

  • Cooking Alaturka

    Sultanahmet

    This hybrid cooking school–restaurant serves a set four-course menu of Turkish home cooking, regional Anatolian specialities and Ottoman classics…

  • Kümpir & Waffle Stands

    The Bosphorus Suburbs

    The pedestrianised street running inland from Ortaköy Mosque is crowded with stands selling kümpir (stuffed baked potato) and sweet-smelling waffles…

  • Dürümzade

    Beyoğlu

    A staple for Beyoğlu night-owls, this tiny grill shop on a grungy corner near the Beyoğlu Fish Market turns out mouth-wateringly tender kebabs – try the …

  • Özkonak

    Beyoğlu

    Known throughout the city for the quality of its kaymak (clotted cream), which it has been serving for half a century, this no-frills place is a highly…

  • Dürümcü Mehmet

    Istanbul

    A constant cluster of customers in front of this hole-in-the-wall joint near the Grand Bazaar signals the fact that its offerings are both fresh and tasty…

  • Mükellef

    Beyoğlu

    Local celebrity chef Arda Türkmen is a master of mezes, so that's what you should order at this upmarket meyhane on the top floor of the Haze Hotel. There…

  • Meşhur Dönercı Hacı Osman'ın Yeri

    Istanbul

    This döner stand, occupying an elegant Ottoman sebil (fountain) outside the Ali Paşa Camii on the corner of Mercan Caddesi, is hugely popular with local…

  • Kafe Ara

    Beyoğlu

    Occupying a converted garage in a lane opposite the Galatasaray Lycée, this cafe is named after legendary photographer Ara Güler, whose photographs of old…

  • Çukur Meyhane

    Beyoğlu

    Despite their long and much-vaunted tradition in the city, it is becoming increasingly difficult to find meyhanes (taverns) serving good food. Standards…

  • Kuru Fasülyeci Erzincanlı Ali Baba

    Istanbul

    Join the crowds of hungry locals at this long-time fasülyeci (restaurant specialising in beans) opposite the Süleymaniye Mosque. It's been dishing up its…

  • Reyhun

    Beyoğlu

    Head up the red-carpeted stairs of this restaurant next to the Galatasaray Garaj to find İstanbul's best Iranian eatery, which boasts a noisy dining salon…

  • Çiğdem Pastanesi

    Sultanahmet

    Strategically located on the main drag between Aya Sofya Meydanı and the Grand Bazaar, Çiğdem has been tempting locals since 1961 with its mouth-watering…

  • Aşşk Kahve

    The Bosphorus Suburbs

    Aşk means 'love' in Turkish; the extra ş creates something similar to 'loove' in English. Semantics aside, Aşşk serves İstanbullus their beloved leisurely…

  • Eleos

    Beyoğlu

    Hidden upstairs in the shabby Hıdivyal Palas building, Eleos transports its diners from Beyoğlu to the Greek islands. Stylish blue-and-white decor and a…

  • Dürümcü Raif Usta

    Istanbul

    The assembly line of staff assisting the usta (grill master) at this place attests to the excellence and popularity of its Adana or Urfa dürüm kebap …

  • Kadife Meze

    The Bosphorus Suburbs

    Smaller and more restrained than the average Beşiktaş meyhane (tavern), Kadife specialises in seafood – try the levrek marin (sea bass marinated with…

  • Erol Lokantası

    Sultanahmet

    One of Sultanahmet's last remaining lokantas (eateries serving ready-made food), Erol is recommended for both its food and its warm welcome. The meat and…

  • Emırgan Sutış

    Sultanahmet

    This branch of the popular local chain is a great place to enjoy the Sutış signature dish – bal kamak (honey and clotted cream), which is wonderful…

  • Burç Ocakbaşı

    Istanbul

    The usta (grill master) at this simple place presides over a charcoal grill where choice cuts of meats are cooked to perfection. You can claim a stool, or…

  • Fes Cafe

    Istanbul

    After a morning spent trading repartee with the touts in the Grand Bazaar, you'll be in need of a respite. And where better than this Western-style cafe…

  • Asmalı Canım Ciğerim

    Beyoğlu

    The name means 'my soul, my liver', and this small place behind the Ali Hoca Türbesi specialises in grilled liver served with herbs, ezme (spicy tomato…

  • Deraliye

    Sultanahmet

    Offering a taste of the sumptuous dishes once served in the great Ottoman palaces, Deraliye offers diners the chance to order delights such as the goose…

  • Matbah

    Sultanahmet

    One of a growing number of İstanbul restaurants specialising in so-called Ottoman palace cuisine, Matbah offers dishes that were devised centuries ago in…

  • Sefa Restaurant

    Sultanahmet

    Located between Sultanahmet and the Grand Bazaar, this clean and popular place offers hazır yemek (ready-made dishes) at reasonable prices. You can order…

  • Emirgan Sütiş

    The Bosphorus Suburbs

    The Bosphorus branch of this popular chain has a leafy, sun-dappled terrace overlooking the water. It's known for all-day breakfasts and its huge range of…

  • Mavra

    Beyoğlu

    Serdar-ı Ekrem Caddesi is one of the most attractive streets in Galata, full of ornate 19th-century apartment blocks and avant-garde boutiques. Mavra was…

  • İnci Pastanesi

    Beyoğlu

    A Beyoğlu institution, İnci was forced out of its historic İstiklal Caddesi premises in 2012, but reopened on a side street and continues to delight…

  • Namlı Gurme

    Beyoğlu

    As well as being one of the best delicatessens in the city, Namlı offers a tempting sit-down or takeaway selection of breakfast dishes, sandwiches, salad…

  • Journey

    Beyoğlu

    This laid-back lounge cafe located in the expat enclave of Cihangir offers a menu of Mediterranean comfort foods including sandwiches, soups and pastas…

  • Şehzade Cağ Kebabı

    Sultanahmet

    Cooked on a horizontal spit, the Erzurum-style lamb kebap that this joint is known for is tender, very slightly charred and very tasty. Served on lavaş…

  • Zencefil

    Beyoğlu

    We're not surprised this vegetarian cafe has a loyal following. Its interior is comfortable and stylish, with a glassed courtyard and bright colour scheme…

  • Cecconi's

    Beyoğlu

    In the fashionable Soho House complex, this branch of the international chain has a romantic courtyard that is a particularly lovely dining spot on summer…

  • Kadı Nimet Balıkçılık

    Kadıköy

    Tucked in behind one of the market’s best fish stalls and sharing the same owners, this much-loved restaurant is a good place to enjoy the daily catch…

  • Bistrot Français

    Beyoğlu

    Its name and menu reflect the fact that this garden cafe in the interior courtyard of the French consulate is as Gallic as İstanbul gets. Start the day…

  • Savoy Pastanesi

    Beyoğlu

    İstanbul has many businesses that have attained iconic status and Savoy is undoubtedly one of them. Down the hill from Taksim Meydanı, it was established…

  • Baylan Pastanesi

    Kadıköy

    The front window and interior of this Kadıköy cake shop, which opened in 1961, have stood the test of time and so too has its popularity. Regulars tend to…

  • Güvenç Konyalı

    Sultanahmet

    Specialities from Konya in Central Anatolia are the draw at this bustling place just off the much-loved Hocapașa Sokak food strip. Regulars come for the…

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