Restaurants in Istanbul
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Aşşk Kahve
The city's glamour set loves this garden cafe to bits, and its weekend brunches are an institution. Go early to snaffle a table by the water and don't forget to have a Botox shot before you go – that way you'll fit in nicely. It's accessed via the stairs behind the Macrocenter.
reviewed
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Galata House
This would have to be one of the most eccentric restaurants in town. Run by the charming husband-and-wife team of Nadire and Mete Göktuğ, it is housed in the Old British Jail, just down from Galata Tower. Nadire uses recipes handed down from her Georgian mother to concoct simple comfort food and also plays the piano and sings for guests.
The jail functioned from 1904 to 1919, and has been sympathetically but comfortably restored by Mete, who is one of İstanbul's most prominent heritage architects.
reviewed
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Buhara Restaurant & Ocakbaşi
If you’re craving a kebab, this unassuming eatery might be the solution. Management can be gruff and the servings are on the small side, but the quality of the meat is good. You can order an Efes to accompany your meal.
reviewed
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Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi Selim Usta
This is one of the most famous eateries in the city, and to be frank, we’re at a total loss to understand why. The ever-present queues of locals obviously adore its rubbery ızgara köfte (grilled meatballs) served with bread, white beans, salad and pickled chillies, but we have always been underwhelmed. Why not try it yourself, though? The place has been serving since 1920 and is certainly clean, cheap and cheerful.
reviewed
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Khorasani
When considering ocakbaşıs, the word stylish doesn’t often come to mind. Succulent, yes. Smoky, sometimes. But stylish? Hmm. The owners of this new place off Divan Yolu are aiming to challenge preconceptions with Khorasani, and it seems to be working for their predominantly tourist clientele. Here, the meat plays second fiddle to the surrounds, which are extremely attractive. The chef hails from Antakya, and the kebap style is that of southeastern Anatolia, meaning that a few spicy dishes adorn the menu. A welcome addition to the Sultanahmet eating scene.
reviewed
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Kuru Fasülyeci Erzincanlı Ali Baba
Join the crowds of hungry locals at this long-time institution located opposite the Süleymaniye Mosque. It's been dishing up its signature kuru fasulye (Anatolian-style white beans cooked in a spicy tomato sauce) since 1924 and it's delicious when accompanied by pilaf (rice) and pickles. Next-door Kanaat Fasülyeci is nearly as old and serves up more of the same. No alcohol.
reviewed
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Albura Kathisma
Albura Kathisma is a welcome addition to the otherwise mediocre array of restaurants along Akbıyık Caddesi. Its streetside tables are usually occupied by tourists sampling Turkish dishes such as hünkar beğendi (lamb or beef goulash served on a mound of rich aubergine puree) or mantı (Turkish ravioli topped with yoghurt, tomato and butter). The food is decent, with lots of vegetarian options.
reviewed
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Pierre Loti Café
After visiting the Eyüp Sultan Mosque, many visitors head north up the hill to the Pierre Loti Café, where the famous French novelist is said to have come for inspiration. Loti loved İstanbul, its decadent grandeur and the late-medieval customs of a society in decline. When he sat in this cafe, under a shady grapevine sipping tea, he saw a Golden Horn busy with caïques (long, thin rowboats), schooners and a few steam vessels. The water in the Golden Horn was still clean enough to swim in and the vicinity of the cafe was given over to pasture. The cafe that today bears his name offers views similar to the ones he must have enjoyed. It’s in a warren of streets on a…
reviewed
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Moreish
Chefs Cokşun Uysal and Esra Muslu trained in Melbourne and London before returning to İstanbul and opening this intimate restaurant. The sophisticated interior by Milagard Architecture perfectly complements the ambitious menu, which comes complete with amuse-bouche and splendid home-baked bread rolls. An initial perusal of the dishes on offer may make you fear that there is too much happening on each plate, but fear not – everything works wonderfully. Highlights of our last meal included a main course of roasted lamb and braised lamb shank with red cabbage, tahini humus and a cognac-plum puree followed by a dessert of flourless chocolate mousse cake served with…
reviewed
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Hamdi Restaurant
Hamdi Arpacı arrived in İstanbul in the 1960s and almost immediately established a street stand near the Spice Bazaar where he grilled and sold tasty kebaps made according to recipes from his hometown Urfa, in Turkey's southeast. His kebaps became so popular with locals that he soon acquired this nearby building, which has phenomenal views from its top-floor terrace.
A meal here offers views of the Old City, Golden Horn and Galata, as well as tasty food and a bustling atmosphere. Try the yoğurtlu şakşuka (yoghurt meze with fried eggplant, peppers and potato), the içli köfte (meatballs rolled in bulgur) and the lahmacun (thin, meat-topped pizza) followed by any of…
reviewed
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Hacı Abdullah
This İstanbul institution (it was established in 1888) serves a good range of mezes and hazır yemek (ready-made food). There's no alcohol, but the range of delicious desserts well and truly compensates. Come for lunch rather than dinner.
reviewed
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Kafe Ara
This casual cafe is named after its owner, legendary local photographer Ara Güler. It occupies a converted garage with tables and chairs spilling out into a wide laneway opposite the Galatasaray Lycée and serves an array of well-priced salads, sandwiches and Turkish staples such as köfte and sigara böreği (pastries filled with cheese and potato). No alcohol.
reviewed
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Changa
A number of eateries in İstanbul attempt fusion cuisine, but few do it well; this sophisticated restaurant is one that does. Most diners opt for the 10-course tasting menu (TL135 per person, minimum two people), but you can also order à la carte. In summer, the action moves to the glamorous MüzedeChanga in the Sakıp Sabancı Museum on the Bosphorus.
reviewed
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Mozaik
Over the years Mozaik has built a reputation as the most stylish restaurant in this part of town. Housed in a romantic Ottoman building dating from 1878 and with plenty of streetside tables, it has a huge menu that offers pastas and other international food as well as dishes from different regions of Turkey. Prices are far too high considering the quality of the food (average at best), but the surrounds are welcoming and the service is excellent.
reviewed
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Mado
Next to Çınar, this branch of the popular ice-cream chain is packed on weekends, when locals stop by after checking out the flea market. The views are great and the people-watching opportunities unrivalled. Oh, and the ice cream goes down a treat. There are also Mado branches in locations such as Üsküdar (Selmanípek Caddesi) and Beyoğlu (İstiklal Caddesi).
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Cezayir
Housed in an attractive building that was once home to an Italian school, Cezayir serves Mod Med food with Turkish influences and caters to an upmarket boho crowd. In summer, the courtyard is always packed with diners sampling dishes such as boneless lamb shank roast with rice, spinach roots and aniseed. Desserts include classics such as chocolate soufflé and ice cream.
reviewed
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Güney Restaurant
You'll be lucky if you can fight your way through the crowds of hungry locals to claim a lunchtime table at this bustling eatery directly opposite Galata Tower. Friendly waiters will set you up with a basket of fresh bread and point you towards the array of meze and hot dishes on display.
reviewed
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İmren Lokantası
Well and truly off the tourist trail, İmren is a tiny neighbourhood lokanta with extremely friendly staff. It serves decent, dirt-cheap dishes such as peppery lamb guveç (stew) and musakka (baked aubergine and mincemeat). Go for lunch rather than dinner. No alcohol.
reviewed
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Yücetepe Kır Gazinosu Restaurant
At the very top of the hill where the Monastery of St George is located, this simple place has benches and chairs on a terrace overlooking the sea and İstanbul. Dishes are simple but good – the köfte is particularly tasty. You can also enjoy a beer or glass of tea here.
reviewed
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İnci Pastanesi
A Beyoğlu institution, İnci is famous throughout the city for its delicious profiteroles covered in chocolate sauce. Customers squeeze into the tiny shop and most scoff standing up.
reviewed
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Asitane
This elegant restaurant next to the Chora Church serves Ottoman dishes devised for the palace kitchens at Topkapı, Edirne and Dolmabahçe. Its chefs have been tracking down historic recipes for years, and the menu is full of versions that will tempt most modern palates. There's a comfortable indoor space and an outdoor courtyard for summer dining.
reviewed
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Sultanahmet Fish House
If you're the fishy type, traditionally there have been only three viable dining options in the Old City: heading down to Kumkapı, grabbing a fish sandwich on the dock at Emininönü or booking a table at the pricey Balıkçı Sabahattin. But now there's this casual restaurant in Cağaloğlu. What makes this joint distinctive are its prices, which are remarkably low for what's on offer. Wine is also well priced, and everything is squeaky clean. Wow.
reviewed
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Cercis Murat Konağı
The menu at Cercis Murat Konağı is simply spectacular, featuring dishes that are as delectable to taste as they are gorgeous to behold. Start with the meze tabağı, a sample platter of 12 meze dishes, or opt for individual plates including allucıye (a mixture of greengage, lamb, squash, chives and parsley; TL6), ıncasiye (lamb, chickpeas, plums and pomegranate molasses; TL6) or an extraordinary kibbe stuffed with pomegranate, pistachio and lamb (TL5). Mains include the decadent kaburga dolması (lamb rib stuffed with dolma and slow cooked; TL50 for two people) and desserts range from homemade dondurma (ice cream; TL5) to a platter of unusual crystallised walnut,…
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Zinhan Kebap House at Storks
Zinhan’s regal position next to the Galata Bridge means that every İstanbullu knows it. Unfortunately (for them, that is) most haven’t eaten here. If you buck this trend, you’ll enjoy an excellent meal on one of the most impressive roof terraces in the city – the views from here are simply sensational. Best is the fact that there are lots of tables in prime positions, meaning that you won’t have to book weeks ahead. You’ll sit on comfortable chairs at huge, well-spaced tables to enjoy tasty mezes such as hummus pastırmalı (hummus with pastırma ) and sophisticated kebap dishes such as ali nazik (spicy kebap on a bed of broiled eggplant salad with garlic…
reviewed
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Develi
Develi opened its first restaurant in Kuruluş in 1912, but its most popular outlet is located at Samatya, in the shadow of Theodosius’ Great Wall. The succulent kebaps here come in many guises and often reflect the season – the keme kebabi (truffle kebab) is only served for a few weeks each year, for instance. Prices here are extremely reasonable for the quality of food that is on offer and the service is exemplary – request a table on the roof terrace, which has great sea views. To get here from Sultanahmet, take a taxi.
reviewed