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5 Kat
Run by glamorous red-haired film actress Yasemin Alkaya, 5 Kat is one of the city's original glamour bars. The 'boudoir chic' décor features deep red walls, satin ceiling, velvet chairs and candles galore - it's amusingly over the top. The Bosphorus views from the full-length windows are simply breathtaking and in the warmer months there's a rooftop terrace bar as well.
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Ada
The side streets off İstiklal may be full of great cafés and bars, but the grand boulevard itself possesses a motley range of choices. Fortunately, Ada is the exception. A cavernous place that's half book and music store and half bar-café, it has style and substance in equal measure. The house wine by the glass is Antik, an excellent quaffing drop, and the coffee is good too.
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Andon
In addition to a rooftop restaurant with fine views over the Bosphorus, a wine bar with a rowdy soloist, a disco in the ground-floor and a third floor dedicated to the so-called İstanbul sanat (art) music, Andon is known for the fasıl music performed in its excellent fourth-floor meyhane. Come prepared to sing along.
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Anemon Galata Bar
As yet undiscovered by the İstanbul bar set, this eyrie on top of a recently restored Ottoman hotel is one of the best places in the city to watch the sun set while enjoying a cocktail. Views over to Old İstanbul and across the Golden Horn are stunning.
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Angelique
Angelique is a safe bet if you want to have dinner, a few drinks and a dance or two.
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Araf
This is grungy fun central for English teachers and Turkish language students, who shake their booties to the in-house gypsy band and swill the cheapest club beer around (a mere 5YTL). To avoid the locals' weekend mating madness, go on Tuesday or Wednesday.
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Babylon
Recent developments have seen Babylon devoting itself exclusively to live performances; in this regard, it's truly a city institution. The eclectic program often features big-name international music acts, particularly during the festival season. DJ chill-out sessions have been moved to its restaurant-lounge right behind the concert hall.
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Badehane
This tiny neighbourhood bar is a favourite with Beyoğlu's bohemian set. In fine weather patrons chain smoke, sip beer and play backgammon in the laneway. When it's cold, dark or wet, the action moves inside and is often accompanied by live music. Dress down and come ready to enjoy an attitude-free evening.
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Balans Music Hall
After enjoying the city's best locally brewed beer (the caramel brew) on the first floor, the lively multinational crowd here separates. Rock aficionados gravitate to the upper floors and the rest of the crowd moves to the impressive 1500-person-capacity performance hall, which features a glass-encased winter garden that is as magical as it is acoustically enhancing. This is the outpost of the new crop of gig-goers. Check the website for details.
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Balkan Türkleri Dayanişma Ve Kültür Derneği
This club, set in the pleasant courtyard of the Koca Sinan Paşa Medrese, is a pretty spot in which to enjoy a cup of Türk kahvesi or çay . Enter through the gate to Koca Sinan Paşa's tomb.
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Blackk
Blackk is worth a look for a few drinks and a twirl around the dance floor.
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Büyük Londra Oteli Bar
This is a true time-warp experience. We'd hazard a guess that the décor at this historic hotel has remained untouched for close on a century, and we're pleased to report that the prices haven't hiked up much during that time. The gins and tonics are pricey but lordy, they're strong!
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Café Meşale
Meşale, located in a sunken courtyard behind the Blue Mosque, is a tourist trap par excellence but we still love it. Generations of backpackers have joined locals in claiming one of its cushioned benches under coloured lights and enjoying a tea and nargileh. There's sporadic live Turkish music in the evening and a Dervish performance at and .
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Cheers Bar
Slap-bang in the middle of backpacker central, this raucous bar is not for the faint-hearted. If you can imagine nothing better than sinking a skinful, listening to Men at Work's Land Down Under and bragging about how cheaply you're managing to live while on the road, this place is for you. The nearby Just Bar offers more of the same.
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Club 17
Attractive young men looking for hormonal release or patronage pack this small, narrow bar as aggressive techno beats accompany wafting sexual energies. At closing, the veritable meat rack in the street makes final hook-up attempts possible.
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Crystal
This is home to the city's techno aficionados, who come here to appreciate sets put together by some of the best DJs from Turkey and the rest of Europe. There's a great sound system, a crowded dance floor and a lovely covered garden bar. The Friday and Saturday cover charge includes one drink.
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Cumhuriyet
The drinks and à la carte dishes at this three-storey meyhane are incredibly reasonably priced. Atmosphere is nostalgic, as befits a place that was known to have been a favourite watering hole of Atatürk (check out the photos of him on the walls). The name is Turkish for 'Republic'.
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Degustasyon
This place has three stories with a summer terrace, and can accommodate 180 persons, meaning that you can usually just walk in off the street. Good cheap food and lively music are dished up - a real find in the Fish Market.
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Déjá Vu
Progressive electronica and hip-hop lasso in the youthful dancers contorting on the dance floor, while other dance enthusiasts egg them on. This is the place to go with the musical flow. The cover charge includes one drink.
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Derviş Aile Çay Bahçesi
The Derviş' paved courtyard, which is superbly located directly opposite the Blue Mosque, beckons patrons with its comfortable cane chairs and shady trees. Efficient service, reasonable prices and peerless people-watching opportunities make it a great place for a leisurely tea, nargileh and game of backgammon.
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Despina
Established in 1946 by the glamorous Madame Despina, whose faded photograph greets guests at the entrance, Despina is mainly patronised by neighbourhood locals, who come for its superb Armenian/Greek food (à la carte only) and the live fasıl music played by very accomplished musicians. On a warm evening the garden is a great setting for musical carousing.
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Donjon
Hip young things loll on the beanbags downstairs and listen to the in-house DJ spin his stuff; others seek out the pleasant roof balcony or the terraces with its swimming pool and imposing views over the Bosphorus. It's the second café from the fortress.
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Erenler Çay Bahçesi
Packed to the rafters with students from nearby İstanbul University, who are doing their best to live up to their heritage (ie develop a major tobacco addiction), this nargileh establishment is set in the leafy courtyard of the Çorlulu Ali Paşa Medrese and has a row of carpet shops down its side.
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Etham Tezçakar Kahveci
This tiny tea and coffee stop is found smack-bang in the middle of Halıciŀar Caddesi. Its traditional brass-tray tables and wooden stools stand in stark contrast to the funky and more-expensive Fes Café opposite.
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Fes Café
A relaxed atmosphere prevails in this sister establishment of the well-known Grand Bazaar café. It's a good spot for a post-bazaar recovery, with good-quality Illy coffee and home-made lemonade on offer.






