Restaurants in Izmir
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Asansör
Housed at the top of a 40m lift (built in 1907 by a local philanthropist to help people travel between the Karataş and Halil Rifat Paşa areas of town), the location is İzmir's best. Apart from the stunning panoramic views, it also makes a cool refuge in summer. There's live Turkish music nightly from 20:00 to midnight. If you can't afford to eat at the main restaurant, try the smaller Café Moreno opposite or come for a beer.
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Simorg Café
With its Orientalist interior (complete with carpets, old maps and portraits of sultans and their harems), this café makes a great place to recline and rest after a run around the bazaar. The 'coffee made in cup' is a speciality of the area as is the mantı (Turkish ravioli). There's live Turkish music on Wednesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday from 19:00 to 21:30.
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Dört Mevsim Et Lokantası
Famous as far afield as Ankara and İstanbul, this award-winning lokanta serves excellent food at reasonable prices. From the open ocakbaşı (grill), try the delicious chargrilled-melted cheese, stuffed aubergine kebab or köfte with chilli (the house specialities).
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Deniz Restaurant
Founded by a father and run by his three sons, the family has firmly held onto Deniz's ranking as İzmir's premier fish restaurant. Try the house speciality, tuzda balık (fish baked in a block of salt that's dramatically broken at your table) or the sumptuous seafood.
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Balık Pişiricisi
The queues of diners on the street and waiters galloping from table to table tell much about this fish restaurant. Though simple and modern, its reputation for good seafood at reasonable prices is unsurpassed. Try the speciality, dil şiş (grilled sole).
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Köfte Neşe
At the other end of the bazaar, this place claims İzmir's 'best-köfte-in-town' crown. Try also the piyas (white beans and onion in olive oil and lemon juice) - an Aegean speciality. Later, have a coffee at one of the pretty cafés nearby.
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Kemal'ın Yeri Deniz Mahsülleri
Friendly, informal and fun, this restaurant in the Alsancak district prides itself on 'customer satisfaction', and serves good fish dishes at great prices. Try the grilled kalamar with the secret - and sumptuous - house 'mayonnaise'.
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Rıza Aksüt
Open since 1957 and hugely popular locally, the patisserie offers stunning Turkish puds and pastries. Try the swoon-inducing bal kaymak (buttermilk drizzled with honey) or supangle (chocolate and milk pudding).
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Kırçiçeği
Simple, large and bright but spotless and with exemplary service, this is the place in Alsancak to come for good Turkish food at great prices. The pick-and-point menu may help new arrivals or those keen to try out other dishes.
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Tabaklar
In the thick of the bazaar, and serving fish at affordable prices, this simple but hugely popular place is one of İzmir's best kept culinary secrets. Try the speciality: dil şiş (grilled sole).
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Güney Doğ
Away from the hustle and bustle of the train station on a pretty street under a leafy wall, the charming, elderly owner serves delicious köfte and meat and veggie kebaps at heart-breakingly modest prices.
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Café de Bugün
Along the seafront and in complete contrast to the little cafés and patisseries in the bazaar is the posh Café de Bugün, which rather resembles a French Regency salon.
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Gül Kebap
For a fuel stop in the bazaar, head for this perennially popular place, feeding the good people of İzmir since 1949.
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Selanik Lokantasi
Another local favourite is Selanik, which serves hearty, homemade fare.
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