Sights in Seoul
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Seodaemun Prison
The prison, built in 1908, is a symbol of Japanese cruelty and oppression during their colonial rule of Korea from 1910 until 1945. The main hall has three floors of exhibitions, including lifelike re-creations of torture scenes in the nightmarish interrogation cells in the basement. Photographs of the prison and prison conditions are on view along with video footage. Not everything is translated into English.
Visitors can look around and go inside the original prison cell blocks where the independence fighters were held. Built to house 500 prisoners, up to 3500 were packed inside during the height of the anti-Japanese protests in 1919. There was no heating and the food…
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Gyeongbokgung
Originally built by King Taejo, the founder of the Joseon dynasty, the grandest of Seoul’s palaces served as the principal palace until 1592, when it was burnt down during the Japanese invasions. It lay in ruins for nearly 300 years until Heungseon Daewongun, regent and father of King Gojong, started to rebuild it in 1865. King Gojong moved in during 1868, but the expensive rebuilding project virtually bankrupted the government.
Two of the grandest architectural sights in Seoul are here. The first is the ornate two-storey Geunjeongjeon, the main palace building, where kings were crowned, met foreign envoys and conducted affairs of state. With its double-tiered stone…
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Changdeokgung
Generally, you can only look around this World Heritage palace on a 90-minute guided tour. However, on Thursdays between April and November, you can visit unescorted (adult/child W15,000/7500; 9.15am-6.30pm Apr-Nov, last entry 4.30pm). It’s much better going around at your own speed, plus you can see more of the palace and grounds than on the tour. An audio guide can be borrowed free of charge.
Changdeokgung was originally built in 1405 as a secondary palace, but when Gyeongbokgung (Seoul’s principal palace) was destroyed during the Japanese invasion in the 1590s, Changdeokgung became the primary palace until 1896. Like all Joseon palaces, it has a mountain behind it…
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N Seoul Tower
As iconic as kimchi, N Seoul Tower offers panoramic but hazy views of the immense metropolis created almost from scratch after the Korean War. Daytime views are great, but if you come at sunset you can watch the great city morph into a galaxy of twinkling stars. Perched atop Namsan, you can eat in the budget Food Court (meals W7000; 10am-10pm) at ground level or in the more elegant Italian bistro, Sweetree (meals W5000-25,000; 10am-10pm), one floor up. The Beer Garden (5-11pm Mon-Fri, noon-11pm Sat & Sun) is another option. High up the tower is Hancook for Korean food and N Grill for expensive Western-style nouveau cuisine served in a revolving restaurant. Other than…
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War Memorial & Museum
This huge museum documents the history of warfare in Korea and has an especially good section on the Korean War (1950–53). It takes at least three hours to browse the whole place, so arrive before 3pm. Only snacks are available. Don’t try to cover this museum and the National Museum of Korea in one day.
On the 1st floor are paintings and panoramic displays illustrating many fierce battles fought against invading Mongol, Japanese and Chinese armies. Many items are only vaguely dated, but there is a replica of one of Admiral Sun-sin’s famous iron-clad turtle warships (called geobukseon ), which he used to defeat the Japanese navy in the 1590s.
Upstairs, visitors can…
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Seolleung Park Royal Tombs
The spirit tablets of the Joseon kings and queens are in Jongmyo, but their tombs are scattered all around Seoul. The tombs are elaborate but mostly underground, and were the scene of regular ceremonies to remember and honour the dead. Walk over to the first tomb, that of King Seongjong (r 1469–94), who was a prolific author and father – he had 28 children by 12 wives and concubines. He died in Changdeokgung. Go around the side and you can walk up to the tomb for a closer look. The statuary includes human and animal guardians – some of the latter look like sheep. The stone lanterns are to guide the king’s spirit home. It’s a short walk to the second tomb, that of King…
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National Museum of Korea
The grand, marble-lined, modernist building cleverly channels plenty of natural light to show off Korea’s ancient treasures. The gardens on the right of the reflecting pond, with ancient stone pagodas, the original Bosingak bell and Dragon Falls – perhaps the most picturesque spot in Seoul – are worth a visit.
Pick up a ticket from the office in the left-side section, which also houses the Yong Theatre, special exhibitions and the children’s section. Enter the huge atrium foyer and work your way down the right-hand side, passing through the various ruling dynasties, from simple comb-design pots and dolmens to the skilful and imaginative Baekje-era incense holder…
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COEX Mall
This vast underground maze of a mall is a top shopping and entertainment attraction that incorporates food courts, a department store, four hotels, the COEX Convention Centre, World Trade Centre and much more. The COEX Aquarium is the largest in Seoul, with thousands of fish and other sea creatures in 90 tanks. You can see live coral, sharks, turtles, rays and evil-looking piranhas swimming around in large tanks. Exquisite small creatures such as pulsating jellyfish, glass fish and sea horses are also on display. Feeding takes place daily (sharks at 1.30pm). The small Kimchi Museum sings the praises of pickled, peppery cabbage and its wondrous health benefits. The museum…
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Namsangol Hanok Village
Five differing yangban stone, wood and tile houses from the Joseon era have been moved here from different parts of Seoul. The architecture and furniture are austere and plain, and conjure up the lost world of Confucian gentlemen scholars, who wielded calligraphy brushes rather than swords. Scenes from the movie Untold Scandal, a 2003 Korean take on Dangerous Liaisons, were filmed here. Weavers, cooks, calligraphers and kite-makers can be spotted at the weekend, while rice-wine brewing and traditional music take place some evenings. At Chuseok (Harvest Festival) half of Seoul squashes in here for the traditional performances and festival atmosphere. At the time of…
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Seoul Grand Park
This zoo park is so large and spread out that a visit here is also a hiking trip. Walk straight ahead from the subway Exit 2 for five minutes to a large glass building. Here either walk for 15 minutes, take a tram train or turn right to catch the sky chairlift to the zoo entrance. Seoul’s best zoo is set among forested hillsides, and families picnic along the shady banks of a stream that runs through the park. It’s easy to spend all day here. The zoo is home to a long list of exotic creatures, including the ever-popular African ones. A huge aviary contains cranes, swans, pelicans and other large birds, and an indoor botanic garden houses a forest of cacti, numerous…
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Garosu-Gil
This tree-lined street is filling up with more and more cute fashion boutiques, art galleries, music bars and cafés. French food, wine and style is much in evidence, but mixed in with the usual Italian and Asian styles. The street’s trendy newcomers are now spilling over into the side streets. Recommended places to pop into include La Cuba Latin Music Pub, Pain de Papa (unique breads), King Kong Steak (a reasonably-priced, stylish diner), Lone Costume (fashionista styles with attitude), bloom & goûté (real French choux pastry in a flower-scented pavement café), and Grandmother (Arabian Nights fantasy bar). From Apgujeong subway station exit 5, walk straight for 10…
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National Museum of Contemporary Art
A large and impressive art gallery spread over three floors, this museum also has sculptures in the garden. The outstanding exhibit is The More the Better – a 1988 installation of 1000 flickering TV screens piled up into a pagoda shape by leading Korean video artist Nam June Paik. Viewing this exhibit is like channel hopping without a remote. Other exhibits by the same artist include a piano jukebox – log onto www.paikstudios.com to learn more about this artistic pioneer. The international section contains a sculpture made of dice and another one utilising squashed petrol cans. Overall, the permanent collection of Korean modern art is disappointing, a mishmash of pictures…
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Children’s Grand Park
Ask for a free map at the entrance to this large shady park, which features a rose garden, flower beds and fountains, and plenty to keep children busy. The amusement park (rides cost extra) has fear-factor experiences for all ages. The zoo (open 10am to 6pm) areas include exotic animals such as tigers, elephants, jaguars, meerkats, penguins and a mob of monkeys. Pony and camel rides cost W5000 for adults, W4000 for children. A glasshouse botanical garden has cacti up one end, and a tropical jungle and bonsai trees at the other end. A wetland eco area has a boardwalk. The 30-minute Anistory Show is fun and features a cute parrot, a chimpanzee act and eager performing…
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Namdaemun
The Great South Gate of Seoul fortress was originally constructed in 1398, rebuilt in 1447 and has often been renovated since then. Designated as National Treasure No 1, the gate was an impressive sight, especially when floodlit at night, and is a reminder of the once-mighty Joseon dynasty. The soldiers in Joseon uniforms that guard the gate ( 10:00 - 16:00 Wed-Mon) march around every 30 minutes, but are there for photographic rather than defence purposes. The famous day-and-night Namdaemun market that starts at the gate is also centuries old.
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Leeum Samsung Museum of Art
In Museum 1 visitors start on the 4th floor and descend a white staircase, a decor that contrasts with the black galleries, where the ancient Korean ceramic metal and art treasures are superbly lit to bring out their inner beauty. Museum 2 has an entirely different look, with outdoor lighting, natural construction materials and a collection of 20th-century Korean and international art. Museum 3 is reserved for special exhibitions. An audio guide costs W2000. Tours in English (free) start at 3pm on Saturday and Sunday.
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Bukchon Museum
This hanok (traditional Korean one-storey wooden house with a tiled roof) is packed with curios and collectables, but is more of a shop than a museum as everything is for sale. Entry is free if you make a purchase, or buy an around ₩3000 cup of homemade tea.
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Kimchi Museum
The small Kimchi Museum, located at COEX Mall, sings the praises of pickled, peppery cabbage and its wondrous health benefits. The museum is almost impossible to find – go down the steps near the 7-Eleven convenience store.
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Jongmyo & Changgyeonggung
Surrounded by dense woodland, the impressive buildings of World Heritage Jongmyo (www.cha.go.kr) house the spirit tablets of the Joseon kings and queens and some of their most loyal government officials. Their spirits are believed to reside in a special hole bored into the wooden tablets.
Near the entrance are two ponds, both square (representing the earth) with a round island (representing the heavens). The shrines are where earth meets the heavens, where the royal spirits come and go. The triple paths were originally built for the king, the crown prince and the spirits.
On the right are buildings which were used to store ritual vessels and incense. They now contain an…
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Olympic Park
This very large, green park with wilderness areas, lakes and other interesting features is best visited by bicycle, though bicycles are not available for hire in the park itself. Otherwise make use of the car-tram if it’s running.
A massive 2.7km Baekje-dynasty earth fortification, Mongchontoseong, built in the 3rd century AD, runs through the park. The Mongchon Museum has some precious golden relics of the Baekje kings, a seven-pronged sword and the usual dull pots. The history of human settlement here goes way back.
Attractions built for the 1988 Seoul Olympics include the indoor swimming pool (sometimes open to the public), tennis courts, three gymnasiums (gymnasium…
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Deoksugung
Originally an aristocratic villa, Deoksugung became a palace in 1593 when King Seonjo moved in after all of Seoul’s other palaces were destroyed during the Japanese invasion. Despite two kings being crowned here, it became a secondary palace from 1615 until 1897 when King Gojong moved in after leaving the nearby Russian legation.
Although he was forced by the Japanese to abdicate 10 years later, Gojong carried on living here in some style until he died in 1919. His son, Sunjong, reigned as a puppet emperor until 1910 when he too was forced to abdicate by the Japanese, who then annexed Korea, bringing the Joseon dynasty to an undignified and abrupt end after more than…
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Jogyesa
Within the grounds of this temple is Daeungjeon, the largest Buddhist shrine in Seoul. It was built in 1938, but the design followed the late-Joseon-dynasty style. Murals of scenes from Buddha’s life and the carved floral latticework doors are two of its attractive features. Inside are three giant Buddha statues : on the left is Amitabha, Buddha of the Western Paradise; in the centre is the historical Buddha, who lived in India and achieved enlightenment; on the right is the Bhaisaiya or Medicine Buddha, with a medicine bowl in his hand. The small 15th-century Buddha in the glass case was the main Buddha statue before he was replaced by the much larger ones in 2006. On…
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Lotte World
This huge complex includes an amusement park, an ice-skating rink, a cinema multiplex, department store, folk museum, shopping mall, hotel, restaurants and more. Kids and adults alike love Lotte World, and couples can arrange to meet at Lotte’s own Trevi Fountain. Visit at the weekend to see a free traditional show at nearby Seoul Norimadang at 3pm. Lotte World Adventure & Magic Island is a mainly indoor Korean version of Disneyland, complete with ‘flying’ balloons, 3D films, laser and music shows, screen rides, fantasy parades and thrill rides that go down very fast or round and round and up and down very fast. The scarier the ride, the longer the queue on busy days.…
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Jeoldusan Martyrs Museum & Chapel
Jeoldusan means ‘Beheading Hill’ – this is where up to 2000 Korean Catholics were executed in 1866 following a decree, signed by Regent Heungseon Daewongun (King Gojong’s father), to kill all Catholics. The victims’ bodies were thrown into the nearby Han River, and only 40 of their names are known. The museum has books, diaries and relics of the early Catholic converts, some of whom were martyred and became saints. The displays have English descriptions. Downstairs are mementoes of Pope John Paul II’s visit here in 1984. Steadfast early Christian converts faced waves of government persecution, but they refused to recant their new faith. Inside Catholic churches,…
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Bongeunsa
Just north of the COEX Mall and Convention Centre, the shrines and halls of this Buddhist temple are spread among a forested hillside and have a quieter, more secluded atmosphere than Insadong’s Jogyesa. Founded in AD 794, the buildings have been rebuilt many times over the centuries. Entry to the temple is through Jinyeomun (Gate of Truth), protected by four fierce guardians. On the right is a charity shop, Beautiful Store (open 10.30am-6pm Tuesday to Sunday). On the left is a small hut where an English-speaking volunteer guide is usually available. Make an effort to visit on Thursday because from 2pm to 4pm, monks and volunteers offer a temple program in English that…
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Seoul Racecourse
Enjoy a day at the races in luxurious grandstands, which hold 77,000 avid punters. Huge screens on the track show the odds, the races and close-ups of the horses. Short races around the sandy track take place every half-hour and bets are limited to W100,000. Foreigners can use their own smart and comfortable suite – just walk left into the new Lucky Ville grandstand, take the elevator to the 4th floor and turn right. English-speaking staff are on hand, but betting is easy enough. Despite the big crowds (legal gambling opportunities are very restricted in Seoul) everything is well-organised. The only problem is picking the winners. The Equine Museum (admission free;…
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