Restaurants in Russian Far East
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A
Mauro Gianvanni
This slick little brick-oven pizzeria – run by an Italian – pumps VH1 videos in the modern interior, though most sit out on the deck when weather behaves. The dozen-plus pizzas are crispy and tasty (R240 to R310), probably the best pie east of the Urals. There’s also a selection of pastas and ‘Italian burgers’.
reviewed
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Five O’Clock
Vladivostok, take note of this novel idea – coffee, brownies, cakes and quiche (R50), all made daily and sold for less than an espresso at most ‘cafes’. Lots of midday snackers come in, perhaps to see the Queen plate behind the register.
reviewed
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Syndicate
Taking over Vladivostok in an Al Capone frenzy, this ultra-1930s themed restaurant – ‘Chicago, New York, whatever’, per one waitress – has seats next to faux storefronts and a stage that lights up with live music at the weekend. Big spenders stick with the steaks – an Aussie rib-eye runs to R1750, but there are R300 burgers and R360 pastas. It’s a couple of kilometres north of the centre, near ul Komsomolskaya, and is reachable via any ‘Vtornaya Rechna’ bus.
reviewed
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Republic
Inside the glass pyramid across from the train station, this perfectly respectable stolovaya (cafeteria) draws more than a couple of cheap dates with its tasty Russian dishes and own beer (R90). A loungelike, newer branch at ul Svetlanskaya 83, near the funicular, has the same prices and opening hours but is dressed up with prints of old Russian newspapers.
reviewed
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B
San Marino
Back from a hard trek, San Marino is Petropavlovsk’s best splash for a fancy, excellent meal (even ‘security’ is in a suit – you can come casual though). It’s big on fish – the theme is nautical – but you’ll also find moose and reindeer on the menu. There’s also a R235 express lunch.
reviewed
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C
Gutov
This beer hall with chunky wood tables serves large Russian meals – mostly meats and fish fillets cooked up with a host of vegetable toppings. On one occasion a local got too excited over the home-brewed beer and got arrested as a selfless researcher looked on. ‘Business lunch’ means gentler pricing of the same dishes.
reviewed
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D
Izbushka
A popular little Russian eatery with two themed rooms: a ‘taiga’ room and a ‘dacha’. Traditionally dressed staff clank their high heels on the wood floors under a soundtrack of lightly played hip-hop. The food is hearty and good (a bread-covered bowl of shchi – cabbage, potato and beef – is R115).
reviewed
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Chochu Muran
[ourpick] Chochu Muran In a wonderful Cossack-style lodge filled with antiques and massive moose heads, the Chochu Muran is set at the edge of town, 15km west, near hills. Call ahead to arrange meals, or drop by to see mammoth artefacts or the dogs that give sled rides in winter, when there’s also ice fishing.
reviewed
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E
Kafe Kolobok
When your budget’s stretched and stomach’s empty, no one does it like Kolo. A newer take on the old stolovaya. Freshly made dishes such as bliny, chicken or sausage meals, plus the happy breakfast bowls of kasha (porridge; R29) are shown in a removable-slot board by the serving line.
reviewed
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Pyongyang
Staffed by newcomers from North Korea, this two-room Korean restaurant seems to like sitting Koreans in one room, Russians and foreigners in the other. You can pick from a photo menu of excellent food (BBQ starts at R480). It’s about four stops south of the train station via bus 60 (just before the railroad bridge).
reviewed
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Ali Baba Fast Food
Cheap Middle Eastern-style pita-bread sandwiches, soup and a Coke. Ice cream and salads too. Caravan-style décor and hangings block the fast-food line from view. Occasionally bear loops are on the TVs, Pink Floyd on the stereo. Nearby you can get a shawarma (shish kebab) at a stand by Sportivnaya Harbour.
reviewed
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G
Kafe Krishna
At press time this excellent cheap-lunch turf - with Indian, blissful all-veggie lunches and lots of local Hare Krishnas supping - was getting muscled out of its prime location. Hopefully it's still here, or at a new location, as its freshly baked items draw streams of nose-following passers-by in.
reviewed
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Pizza M
Classier than its name might suggest, the M (inside Hotel Primorye) is one of Vlad’s coolest hangouts, with two unique rooms setting their style-sights higher than the humble slice. The pizzas (R200 to R500) are quite good (note: a small is not enough for one).
reviewed
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Pacific Café
In the SakhinCentr, this all-Western standard self-serve café is a de facto business-meeting venue. The Texas-big ‘business lunch’ fills trays from noon to 3pm weekdays; you can get a burger (R270) and fries (R60) anytime, or order an American breakfast.
reviewed
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J
Russky Restaurant
Nearly all Russian restaurants get a bit kitschy, but this one goes all out – but in a way that never betrays its authenticity. There are paintings of tsars, side-rooms in dacha style, and traditional music kicking off dinners that frequently require reservations.
reviewed
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K
Chyornaya Koshka
Tucked behind a pavilion of drab housing blocks, the new 'Black Cat' is a very popular eatery for wine-sipping locals dining on big portions of beef, pork, fish and - ! - Mexican quesadillas (cheese pastries) or Spanish paella. Reserve on weekends.
reviewed
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Vstrecha
This mini banquet hall has cloud-painted ceilings and fussed-up tables wrapping around a simple disco-ball stage for live music after 9pm (when entry is R60 to R140). Food is quite good; the Russian dishes (cutlets, soups, salads) more so than the Chinese.
reviewed
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Edem
Vladivostok’s first and best sushi bar is in an attractive cellarlike space with nooks to sit in. Sushi and sashimi combos start at R1600; an eight-piece California roll is R300. ‘Sushi time’ is 11am to 5pm, and 6pm to 11pm only.
reviewed
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M
Slavyanka
Slavyanka Matryoshka dolls and wooden spoons encircle (mostly Russian) diners at this homy, eight-table restaurant that fills for all meals. The stage sees a balalaika trio perform nightly. Food's good and there's an English menu.
reviewed
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Nihon Mitai
Yuzhno’s favourite sushi spot is a bit out of the centre, but the stylish, bamboo-central, 2nd-floor dining room is good for soba noodles (R265 to R390) and picking from the sushi conveyor belt after 6pm (from R80 per piece).
reviewed
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Nostalgiya
This compact, long-running restaurant offers hearty and tasty Russian meals with a little for-the-tsars pomp. Most visitors come for the souvenir shop (big collection of paintings and handicrafts) or a snack at the café.
reviewed
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Khing An
The red-brick exterior of Khing An is nice, but the inside is a bit plain – most locals sit on the covered front patio. There’s a photo menu, plus live music at 8pm Saturday and Sunday.
reviewed
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Dva Gruzina
Wagon-wheel benches and murals of Zapata-moustached men greet mostly local diners. The food's very good - the lone daily soup is especially flavourful - but there's little but pork and beef (and no English menu).
reviewed
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Metro
Below a university building on pl Lenina, the Metro occupies (it's whispered) the spot where medical students once poked at cadavers. Now it's a flashy subterranean drink 'n' eat spot - best for the cheap lunch.
reviewed
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Tamerlyan
This fast-food spot (with battle axes on the wall) gets busiest at lunch, when it has a pick-and-watch-cook (then eat) Mongolian BBQ (R229 for one trip) and a business lunch (R200) from 11am to 4pm weekdays.
reviewed
