Must-see restaurants in Lisbon

  • Mr Lu

    Lisbon

    This near-legendary Chinese haunt of Chef Lu lies an easy walk from Anjos metro station. Funnily enough in 1997 he was considered the 'second-best' chef…

  • A Travessa do Fado

    Alfama, Castelo & Graça

    Nontouristy restaurants are hard to come by in Alfama, but this one, the more casual sister restaurant to high-end A Travessa, gets a nod for its sun…

  • Bica do Sapato

    Alfama, Castelo & Graça

    Part-owned by actor John Malkovich, this uberhip dockside venue is all glass walls, artful lighting and airy river views. Upstairs, scenesters nibble on…

  • River Lounge

    Parque das Nações

    This slinky, monochrome, glass-walled restaurant-lounge ups the style ante in Parque das Nações. Seasonal, Med-inspired cuisine is given a light touch of…

  • Darwin's Café

    Belém

    This trendy, design-forward, evolution-themed cafe suffers from a bit of scholarly overreach inside (though the big, round banquettes are great for groups…

  • Frade dos Mares

    Príncipe Real, Santos & Estrela

    This smart, contemporary bistro keeps the mood relaxed with soft lighting and unobtrusive yet on-point service. The consistently great menu is mostly…

  • Cafetaria Village

    Lisbon

    Located inside a raised antique double-decker city bus resting on shipping containers, this small cafe is part of Village Underground Lisboa, a London…

  • Wurst

    Príncipe Real, Santos & Estrela

    Austrian sausage slinger Maria Fuchs honours her homeland at this tiny temple of pork and beef inside the foodie-centric Mercado de São Bento. She sources…

  • Princesa do Castelo

    Alfama, Castelo & Graça

    This chirpy, cash-only vegan cafe, run by a good-vibes Bangalorean, positively radiates good health with vegetarian, vegan, macrobiotic and sattvic dishes…

  • Flora e Fauna

    Príncipe Real, Santos & Estrela

    This smart cafe, a welcome 2016 Madrogoa newcomer, attracts a well-heeled crowd for brunch all day. On offer is excellent avocado toast (with wild sautéed…

  • Pizzeria Romana al Taglio

    Baixa & Rossio

    This Roman transplant dishes out fresh and fast pizza al taglio – traditional, Roman-style pizza in square slices – in some 25 colourful and ridiculously…

  • O Trevo

    Bairro Alto, Chiado & Cais do Sodré

    Despite a posh address on Praça Luís de Camões, O Trevo is a bustling and surly local joint deeply rooted in the daily grind. Working-class lisboêtas go…

  • Confeitaria Rainha Dona Amélia

    Alfama, Castelo & Graça

    This pastelaria's speciality is Queijadas Dona Amelia, small Azorean pastries, which originally date back to 1901, when they were served to Queen Dona…

  • Pap’Açorda

    Bairro Alto, Chiado & Cais do Sodré

    The beauty set consistently stomps around the monochrome hexagonal floor and massive, glass-encased wine cellar at Pap’Açorda's dazzling new 800-sq-metre…

  • Bebedouro

    Baixa & Rossio

    Wine-bottle lights illuminate stylish Bebedouro, where full-bodied Douro wines are nicely paired with tasting platters of regional cheese and sausage,…

  • O Pitéu

    Alfama, Castelo & Graça

    Off the beaten path, this unassuming place draws a local crowd who come for beautifully prepared, good-value dishes. Join them in flavourful Alentejan…

  • Atalho Real

    Príncipe Real, Santos & Estrela

    A carnivore's delight, this trendy steakhouse is hidden away in the bottom of Embaixada shopping centre (easy to find by car, hard to find on foot). It…

  • Kin

    Baixa & Rossio

    Topo's sexy Asian lounge – adjacent to their original rooftop location inside a Praça Martim Moniz commercial centre – is a Thai/Vietnamese/Indonesian…

  • Santo António de Alfama

    Alfama, Castelo & Graça

    This bistro wins the award for Lisbon’s loveliest summer courtyard: all vines, twittering budgerigars and fluttering laundry (though you'll struggle to…

  • Dona Quitéria

    Príncipe Real, Santos & Estrela

    Locals do their best to keep this quaint corner petiscaria (small-plates restaurant), a former grocery store from 1870, all to themselves – no such luck…

  • Self-Service do ACISJF

    Bairro Alto, Chiado & Cais do Sodré

    Known on the street as Cantina das Freiras, this small, sunny cafeteria inside a Catholic association is run by sweet nuns dressed as lunch ladies. They…

  • Água no Bico

    Príncipe Real, Santos & Estrela

    Lisbon's first paleo-focused cafe is tucked away on the grounds of Polo Cultural Gaivotas Boavista, as elementary school turned cultural hub, under a…

  • Palácio Chiado

    Bairro Alto, Chiado & Cais do Sodré

    This ravishing former home of Portuguese barons is one of Lisbon's most stunning addresses for foodies, a gourmet food court wrapped in exquisitely…

  • Faca e Garfo

    Bairro Alto, Chiado & Cais do Sodré

    The sweet azulejo-filled Faca & Garfo (which means ‘knife and fork’) has earned a loyal local following for its tasty, carefully prepared Portuguese…

  • Sacramento

    Bairro Alto, Chiado & Cais do Sodré

    If you drop your céntimos at one touristy restaurant in Lisbon, choose contemporary Sacramento, a fun and festive place gorgeously set inside a former…

  • Mercearia do Século

    Príncipe Real, Santos & Estrela

    Anthropologist and Portuguese-cookbook writer Fernanda runs this sweet little deli and grocery store with love and an eye for careful sourcing. Daily…

  • Esplanada Café

    Príncipe Real, Santos & Estrela

    This indoor-outdoor cafe is ideal for a coffee or cocktail break among the massive rubber tree palms and twittering birds in the Jardim do Príncipe Real…

  • Jardim dos Sentidos

    Príncipe Real, Santos & Estrela

    Vegetarian-minded diners flock to this attractive restaurant and wellness centre with a back garden/spa, an extensive lunch buffet and à la carte dinners…

  • Guilty

    Marquês de Pombal & Around

    Midway between restaurant and clubby lounge-bar, Guilty is the casual stalwart of Lisbon master-chef Olivier. With its bare brick walls, leather sofas,…

  • Este Oeste

    Belém

    This strange Italian-Japanese hybrid manages to bridge East (este) and West (oeste) surprisingly well, with tasty thin-crust pizzas fired up in the…

  • DeliDelux

    Alfama, Castelo & Graça

    Besides a bounty of wines, cheeses, olive oils and other gourmet goodies, this deli's wonderful waterfront patio has yet to be discovered by tourists …

  • Marcelino Pão e Vinho

    Alfama, Castelo & Graça

    What this narrow cafe lacks in space it makes up for in atmosphere, with local artworks on the walls, occasional live music, traditional hats suspended…

  • Kaffeehaus

    Bairro Alto, Chiado & Cais do Sodré

    Kaffeehaus has a bright interior with classic lines and big windows overlooking a peaceful corner of Chiado, and it’s a favourite eating and drinking spot…

  • Fábulas

    Bairro Alto, Chiado & Cais do Sodré

    Exposed stone walls, soft lighting, vaulted ceilings and twisting corridors that open onto cosy nooks do indeed conjure a fábula (storybook fable)…

  • India Gate

    Alfama, Castelo & Graça

    If you just can't deal with any more bacalhau, the Gujarati owners at this classy curry house oversee some of Lisbon's best Indian cuisine and are…

  • A Travessa

    Príncipe Real, Santos & Estrela

    This 17th-century convent cranks up the romance with its serene cloisters and brick vaulting. Chef Nuno Coelho whets appetites with fresh wood-fired bread…

  • Maria Catita

    Alfama, Castelo & Graça

    Although its well-rounded menu sometimes misses, Maria Catita is a fun choice on Sunday evenings, when there's not much open. Appetisers such as the…

  • Café Buenos Aires

    Bairro Alto, Chiado & Cais do Sodré

    Your taste buds will tango at this boho multinational gem perched high on the cobbled steps of Calçada do Duque and owned by a Portuguese-Argentine couple…

  • Casa do Alentejo

    Baixa & Rossio

    Hidden behind a plain facade, the Casa do Alentejo has a museum-quality, Moorish-style interior that some say is even more impressive than the food – pork…

  • Belém 2 a 8

    Belém

    The welcome is warm at this unassuming modern bistro, which pairs spot-on Portuguese food with a well-edited wine list. The petiscos (tapas) and mains,…

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