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A Confraria
The upmarket restaurant at York House is renowned for its esoteric French delicacies. Sit outside in the sun-dappled courtyard.
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A Tasca da Sé
Terracotta and brown-tiled and handily near the cathedral, this small and welcoming family restaurant offers delicious home-cooked dishes.
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A Tasca do Manel
Tiled and wooden, this is a hip tasca (tavern), always packed and lively, with tasty traditional fish and meat dishes.
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Ad Lib
While there are myriad hotel restaurants on and around Av da Liberdade, Ad Lib stands out by offering quality cooking in stylish surroundings. The shredded codfish salad entree is a highlight and either the meat or fish mains will serve you well. The short wine list includes some decent half-bottles.
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Adamastor
This tiny wedge-shaped café serves inexpensive meals (chicken or sardines, anyone?) amid first-rate people-watching. Get there early to snag an outdoor table.
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Alfaia
This cosy spot serves tapas, sandwiches and hearty Portuguese fare, though port is the main event here. Grab a seat at one of the peaceful outdoor tables for premium imbibing.
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Antiga Casa de Pasto Estrela da Sé
A stone's throw from the cathedral, this tavern has retained its antique decor. Secret political meetings once took place in its wood-panelled booths, which have existed since 1814. The food is quite simple but very tasty. It's an ideal place for an intimate (or even clandestine) dinner.
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Baralto
Traditional Portuguese cuisine with a few unique options (vegetarian lasagne, paella) in a cosy setting.
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Bica do Sapato
An über-hip minimalist dockside venue part-owned by actor John Malkovich, this comprises restaurant, café and sushi bar.
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Bonsai
Surprisingly spacious, Bonsai features rush walls, black tables, tinkling music and good authentic Japanese food, with a regularly changing menu.
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Bota Alta
This is a popular restaurant that serves traditional Portuguese food and very good wine. The two dining rooms are decorated with rustic artefacts and original art work but it's the food that brings the locals out: by mid-evening there is usually a line forming outside this much-loved eatery.
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C@fé Taborda
Up near Castelo de São Jorge is this high-up vegetarian and fish restaurant with marvellous views through its large windows.
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Café A Brasileira
This wonderful original Art Deco café has literary credentials - the seated bronze statue outside is writer Fernando Pessoa, a former habitué. It's touristy but still a local favourite with lots of atmosphere.
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Café Apolo XI
A small charming café far from the tourist trail, Apolo XI attracts a low-key workaday crowd, who come for meatballs, stuffed cuttlefish, grilled pork ribs and other daily specials.
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Café dos Teatros
A theatrically lit setting with excellent soups, salads and sandwiches and ample dessert choices.
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Café Martinho da Arcada
In business since 1782, this tiled, yellow-and-white-tableclothed place was once a haunt of Pessoa, Portugal's greatest 20th-century poet. Although the literary lions have moved on, Martinho's outdoor tables beneath a colonnade make a fine spot for a traditional meal.
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Café Nicola
The grande dame of Lisbon's cafés, Nicola has shiny 1930s Art Deco features and outside tables. The white-tablecloth restaurant at the back is a good place for lunch.
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Café no Chiado
Tree-shaded outdoor tables make a fine setting at this peaceful café in Chiado. There are quiches and salads, as well as daily specials.
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Cafeteria Quadrante
On the 3rd floor, this is a calm, spacious, modern café with a lovely terrace overlooking the river.
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Casa Brasileira
Take your place around the stand-up counter at this popular local café for tasty pastries, fresh juices and sandwiches. There are also outdoor tables at the front.
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Casa da India
Despite the name, this is a traditional joint with a Portuguese menu. It's popular and lively, always busy, and the gambas á guilho (garlic prawns) are divine.
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Casa Suiça
A long-established favourite doing a brisk trade with tourists outside and sedate elderly locals inside.
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