Lisbon
You have to be determined to find hilltop Clube das Jornalistas, but persevere. This 18th-century house, opening onto a tree-shaded courtyard, has oodles…
Lisbon
You have to be determined to find hilltop Clube das Jornalistas, but persevere. This 18th-century house, opening onto a tree-shaded courtyard, has oodles…
Alfama, Castelo & Graça
Boasting a laid-back vibe under dominant stone arches, atmospheric Pois Café has creative salads, sandwiches and fresh juices, plus a handful of heartier…
Bairro Alto, Chiado & Cais do Sodré
Rods, nets, hooks and fish charts give away this tiny bar's former life as a fishing-tackle shop. Cabinets are stacked with vintage-looking tins of…
Bairro Alto, Chiado & Cais do Sodré
Celebrated chef José Avillez has several restaurants in the neighbourhood, including this buzzing, contemporary bistro. Small plates are a great way to…
Marquês de Pombal & Around
With a marble chandelier and icing-sugar stucco confection, this sublime patisserie is where well-coiffed ladies come to gossip and devour cream cakes (or…
Belém
Join the snaking queue for Belém’s wildly popular fast-food standby. Crowds clamour over a long list of sandwiches, baguettes or salads, customise their…
Belém
Tucked away from the crowds on a side street, Alecrim & Manjerona ('Rosemary & Marjoram') is a cute grocery store, cafe, deli and wine bar rolled into one…
O Cocho – Mercearia Alentejana
Príncipe Real, Santos & Estrela
This sweet deli and grocery store plays up top-quality, sustainably sourced produce from the Alentejo. Wholesome soups, toasties, tapas and some of Lisbon…
Marquês de Pombal & Around
It's damn near worth the trek for early risers, as this trendy Saldanha bakery-cafe opens at 7am, even on Sunday. It does light bites (tostas, bagels,…
Bairro Alto, Chiado & Cais do Sodré
Not to be confused with the pricier Tagide next door, this casual, slickly modern tapas bar has pretty views to the river and wine dished out via self…
Alfama, Castelo & Graça
This friendly cafe has a handful of tables on one of Alfama's prettiest squares. It's a fine spot for a craft beer with grilled chorizo, tibornos …
Alfama, Castelo & Graça
In the shadow of the grand Sé de Lisboa, this youthful, jazz-loving cafe, whose name translates to 'Oh my God!' in English, has earned a local following…
Príncipe Real, Santos & Estrela
This warm, convivial brasserie prides itself on just one dish: Lisbon's most famous steak, cooked to perfection, served swimming in cream sauce, skinny…
Bairro Alto, Chiado & Cais do Sodré
This boho cafe spills out onto both its vine-clad back courtyard and pleasant plaza seating, where you can try fresh-pressed juices, scones, tartines …
Alfama, Castelo & Graça
Just steps from Castelo de São Jorge's entrance, this tiny restaurant enjoys a loyal following for its warm service and solid home cooking. Dishes such as…
Bairro Alto, Chiado & Cais do Sodré
Always packed with regulars, this small but festive tasca (tavern) serves excellent traditional Portuguese dishes, amid tiled walls, a garrulous crowd and…
Bairro Alto, Chiado & Cais do Sodré
This stylish modern cafe and bakery has a tempting display case of almond croissants, éclairs and other baked goodies. Head upstairs to the wooden tables…
Alfama, Castelo & Graça
Follow the scent of chargrilled fish to this local favourite tucked away on a small, festively decorated plaza in Alfama. Join buzzing crowds hunkered…
Bairro Alto, Chiado & Cais do Sodré
Stone walls, sea-green banquettes and nautical knick-knacks here remind one that indeed ‘aqui há peixe’ (‘here there is fish’). Prices are high, but so is…
Bairro Alto, Chiado & Cais do Sodré
On bar-lined Rua Nova do Carvalho, Povo serves tasty Portuguese comfort food in the form of petiscos. There's also outdoor seating, plus live performances…
Baixa & Rossio
Expanding waistlines since 1829, this stuccoed patisserie entices with strong bica (espresso), pastéis de nata (custard tarts) and macaroons. Upstairs,…
Bairro Alto, Chiado & Cais do Sodré
If you're self-catering or simply after a picnic, this organic, reasonably priced grocer stocks the essentials: wines, yoghurts, granolas, cold drinks,…
Alfama, Castelo & Graça
Friendly and usually full, this family affair is tucked down a slender backstreet near Martim Moniz. Reserve a table to munch on spicy Goan nosh such as…
Bairro Alto, Chiado & Cais do Sodré
At the small, provocatively named Puttana (it means 'whore' in Italian), upstart chef Nuno Bergonse keeps things simple: a handful of Neapolitan-style…
Príncipe Real, Santos & Estrela
Lisbon's oldest herbivore temple is part of a Tibetan Buddhism school. Its mantra is fresh vegetarian food, with daily specials such as quiche and curry…
Bairro Alto, Chiado & Cais do Sodré
This nouveau-rustic tapas bar is a welcome newcomer to Santa Catarina's dining scene. Its menu of appetising petiscos focuses on smoked meat and fish –…
Alfama, Castelo & Graça
The food (tapas and light bites) is distinctly average, but a friendly owner and superb, extraordinarily moist orange cake (€4) make this a perfect pit…
Alfama, Castelo & Graça
This bright chequered-tablecloth-and-tile place overlooks a pretty square. Amid a tight, quaint interior, it rolls out charcoal-grilled dishes such as…
Príncipe Real, Santos & Estrela
Vegetarians sing the praises of Terra for its superb buffet (including vegan options) of salads, kebabs and curries, plus organic wines and juices. A…
Lisbon
Famous for market-fresh seafood, Doca Peixe is practically under Ponte 25 de Abril. Savour lemony oysters, John Dory with clam rice, or a bevy of…
Lisbon
Decked out like an industrial-chic country barn, this cool cafe in LX Factory is a laid-back pick for snacks, mains such as codfish and sirloin steak, and…
Alfama, Castelo & Graça
Signless Casanova seduces with wood-fired pizza that’s thin, crisp and authentically Italian. Bag a table on the riverside terrace (heated in winter).
Alfama, Castelo & Graça
Palácio Belmonte's peaceful and beautifully located cafe, with old stone walls and an outdoor terrace, is just a few steps from Castelo de São Jorge.
Bairro Alto, Chiado & Cais do Sodré
There’s always a buzzing crowd filling this Santa Catarina gem, which is famed for its simple classics and roasted-pork dishes with French twists.
Príncipe Real, Santos & Estrela
The first shop in Lisbon of the Santarém artisanal ice-cream brand. Flavours vary from ordinary chocolate and strawberry to regional Ribatejo creations…
Príncipe Real, Santos & Estrela
At this shipping container turned casual lunch spot, roast beef is the main ingredient in sandwiches made on the spot (along with home-made fries). The…
Bairro Alto, Chiado & Cais do Sodré
The tables have marble tops like typical tascas (taverns) and the menu is all about the Portuguese petiscos (snacks), including staple dishes like octopus…
Príncipe Real, Santos & Estrela
The place is hard to find, but its bacalhau à Brás (shredded cod with onions, eggs and potatoes; feeds two for €9.50) makes this backstreet restaurant in…
Bairro Alto, Chiado & Cais do Sodré
Located in a busy street in Chiado, this cafe and pastry shop opened as a teahouse in 1868. In the cobblestoned esplanade, bright sun-yellow tablecloths…
Alfama, Castelo & Graça
This quaint cafe is located in a small, friendly square in the heart of the Mouraria neighbourhood, offering affordable meals and exceptionally warm and…