Niah Caves National Park

Introducing Niah Caves National Park

The vast caverns of Niah Caves National Park (737454; admission RM10; park office 8am-5pm) are among Borneo’s most incredible natural attractions. Located in the limestone hills about 3km north of Batu Niah town, the caves contain some of the oldest evidence of human habitation in Southeast Asia; rock art and small canoe-like coffins (death ships) within the greenish walls of the Painted Cave indicate that it was once a burial ground, and carbon dating puts the oldest relics back 40,000 years ago.

The caves are 3.5km away from the park headquarters via a wonderful plankwalk through old-growth rainforest. First, you walk from the headquarters to the jetty on the Sungai Niah, then cross the river in a small boat (RM1, departs on demand), before climbing to a small visitors centre (admission free; 9am-5pm) where you can rent a torch for RM5 (check it works before setting out – you’ll need it if you want to go any distance into the caves). The plankwalk is not well marked – when you reach the place where local villagers sell souvenirs, pass through the gate and climb up to the caves.

You’ll pass under a limestone overhang before entering the aptly named Great Cave. Ascend up to your left here and make your way to the back of the cave. The trail disappears down into the castellated gloom at the back of the cave, and you may find yourself thinking of Jules Verne’s Journey to the Centre of the Earth or the city of Zion in the Matrix films. You then make your way through a dark passage known as the Gan Kira, or Moon Cave. It’s not narrow enough to induce claustrophobia (unless you’re severely affected), but it will certainly make you wonder what would happen if your torch suddenly died. You then emerge into the forest and traverse another section of boardwalk before arriving at the Painted Cave. To return, retrace your steps (taking the steps up to your left to close the loop in the Great Cave).

Last updated: Mar 24, 2009