Saluzzo

Introducing Saluzzo

Visiting the charming town of Saluzzo, 32km north of Cuneo, feels like stepping back in time. Every day from 6.30am on Piazzetta Santa Maria, old women sell fruit, vegetables and flowers from their gardens at what is known as the mercato d’le fumne (women’s market). If it’s raining they’re huddled here under heavy overcoats and umbrellas.

Saluzzo is divided into its little-touched old town, bordered in parts by the remains of its 1201-built town walls, and its ‘modern’ town (itself several centuries old). The sections are a short walk apart. Once a medieval stronghold, the town maintained its independence until the Savoys won it in a 1601 treaty with France. One of its better-known sons was the Italian writer Silvio Pellico (1788–1854). Imprisoned for his patriotism against the Austrian occupation, he wrote parts of his novel Le Mie Prigioni (My Prisons) by cutting himself and using his blood as ink. A second well-known local is General Carlo dalla Chiesa (1920–82), whose implacable pursuit of the Mafia led to his assassination.

The burnt-red-tiled rooftops of Saluzzo’s old town make a timeless picture from the loggia beneath the 15th-century belfry of the Torre Civica (0175 4 14 55; Via San Giovanni; admission €1.30, incl Museo Civico di Casa Cavassa €5; 9.30am-12.30pm & 2.30-6.30pm Thu-Sun Mar-Sep, same hours Sat & Sun Oct-Feb), reached by a steep flight of steps. Saluzzo’s medieval rulers meted out justice from La Castiglia (Piazza Castello) , the 13th-century castle atop Saluzzo. At time of writing it was scheduled to reopen shortly to the public – ask the tourist office (0175 4 67 10; www.comune.saluzzo.it; Piazza Risorgimento; 9am-12.30pm & 3-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 9am-noon & 3-7pm Sun Apr-Sep, 9am-12.30pm & 2-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 9am-noon & 2-6pm Sun Oct-Mar) for updates.

The Museo Civico di Casa Cavassa (0175 4 14 55; Via San Giovanni 5; adult/child €4/2, incl Torre Civica€5; 10am-1pm & 2-6pm Thu-Sun Apr-Sep, 10am-1pm & 2-5pm Tue & Wed Oct-Mar) is a fine example of a 16th-century noble residence, and contains a valuable 1499 gold-leafed painting, Nostra Signora dell Grazie (Our Lady of Mercy) by Hans Klemer.

Steps lead from cobbled Via San Giovanni to the beautiful 14th-century San Giovanni church, one of many churches in town.

A few kilometres south of Saluzzo, the creaking medieval castle (0175 8 78 22; www.findoambiente.it; Viale Coni Zugna 5, Manta; adult/child incl audioguide €5/2.50; 10am-1pm & 2-5pm Tue-Sun Oct–mid-Dec, to 6pm Tue-Sun Feb-Sep, closed mid-Dec–Jan) in the village of Manta is one of the finest examples of its kind, and carefully guards Europe’s most important cycle of late-Gothic secular frescoes. Its large park remains open throughout the day.

Last updated: Feb 17, 2009