Avignon
This place is pure charm. On cobbled-stone place des Chataignes (Chestnut Tree Square) it spills across to its ancient stone neighbour (Cloître St-Pierre)…
Must-see restaurants in Provence & the Côte d'Azur
Marseille
This long-standing classic in a 1940s seaside hotel with Mediterranean views has plenty of atmosphere, however kitschy. Although this is one of the most…
Côte d'Azur
Overseen by chef Franck Chabod, a veteran of several Michelin-starred establishments, this attractive restaurant feels a little out of place in St-Raphaël…
Avignon
Gourmet brioche-based burgers come in a multitude of guises, loaded with tempting goodies from smoked bacon and St-Nectaire cheese to caramelised onions,…
Gorges du Verdon
Hidden behind the soft-pink façade of Moustiers' Musée de la Faïence is this peaceful garden restaurant. Tables sit between olive trees and the colourful,…
Côte d'Azur
As the name suggests, this is the village's former girls' school. What makes it so special is that it has retained the charm of an old village school: in…
Marseille
Only Marseillais and the cognoscenti are privy to this little chalet with a very big view, secreted in the Jardin du Pharo. Its hillside terrace, shaded…
Var
Treat yourself to real mountain food: wild boar, pheasant, capon, kid, cèpes (porcini mushrooms) and other delicacies. Finish with chestnut ice cream and…
Côte d'Azur
You couldn't ask for a more idyllic spot for dinner and a drink than this beachside resto-bar, in business since 1948. The menu revolves around grilled…
Vaucluse
Jean-Marie Alloin is the chef in charge at La Prévôté's primo – and deservedly popular – restaurant. The food here is modern, and occasionally…
Alpes-de-Haute-Provence
Beside a fountain in Forcalquier's old town, this homespun place is as traditional as it gets. All the dishes are made to timeworn recipes comme à la…
Avignon
In the town's studenty quarter near elegant place des Carmes, this no-fuss hang-out is ideal for solid, unpretentious grub like stir-fries, crusted cod,…
Marseille
A classic neighbourhood bar and bistro, the Longchamp Palace teems with convivial locals, especially after work. Stained glass windows that might have…
Marseille
Scotch and spanking-fresh seafood come together in this outpost of the Auld Alliance (the long-standing friendship between Scotland and France, cemented…
Vaucluse
Run by renowned sommelier Serge Ghokassian, this hip restaurant feels somewhat out of step with the rest of Carpentras: it's more Parisian chic than…
Nice
With its vintage kitchen decor and great-value prices, the Comptoir does predictably well. There are five or six daily mains, scribbled on a chalkboard…
Arles
A favourite recommendation for bistro dining, Au Brin de Thym is chilled in vibe and creative in execution. The menu is dictated by seasons and the best…
Villefranche-sur-Mer
For a cheap and cheerful fill, there is no finer address along the coast than La Grignotière, known far and wide for its generous portions of grilled fish…
Marseille
Night and day, this corner bar is a classic Le Panier hang-out whether you’re old, young, hip or in need of a hip replacement. It’s on a quiet backstreet…
Bouches-du-Rhône
This bright, breezy restaurant is a favourite for the chi-chi summer crowd, and with good reason: the food is classy and the ambience is buzzy, with…
Vaucluse
Locals have been heading for this classic village auberge (country inn) for more than nine decades (since 1922, in fact). It's the kind of place where the…
Cannes
A people’s-choice place since 1935, this informal restaurant cooks up regional dishes, such as aïoli garni (garlic and saffron mayonnaise served with fish…
Camargue
East of Stes-Maries, towards the Digue à la Mer on sandy Plage Est, is La Playa, the chic choice, with a particularly vibrant apéro and after-dark scene…
Bouches-du-Rhône
Well-stuffed fougasse (Provençal flatbread) and baguettes with a variety of tasty fillings make this well-established boulangerie (bakery) the perfect…
Les Calanques
The one restaurant in the tiny, pretty calanque of Morgiou is the delightful Nautic Bar. With terraces overlooking the port, it is a dreamy spot for…
Nice
Housed in a sumptuous pink Regency dining room, the two-starred Michelin restaurant at the Hôtel Negresco, run by locally trained chef Jean-Denis…
Var
One of the tastiest addresses on the Estérel coast road is this Provençal house 200m from the sea. It serves elaborate Mediterranean cuisine (fabulous…
Vaucluse
Nothing world-changing here, but tasty regional food from bourride (fish stew) to brandade de cabillaud (cod kebabs), laced with lashings of olive oil,…
Nice
For a lavish seafood platter loaded with oysters, lobster, crab, cockles and more, Café de Turin is a longstanding Niçois tradition. You can also buy…
Nice
This family-run Lebanese place offers a delicious break from Nice's ubiquitous French and Italian fare. Platters of marinated and grilled meat (kafta,…
Parc National du Mercantour
On Barcelonnette's main shopping street, the Donkey's Pepper is the place to stuff yourself silly with mountain sausages, cheesy tartiflettes (potatoes,…
St-Tropez
It's no surprise this old-fashioned place survives in restless, modish St Tropez: since 1962 the one family has made an art of buying the day's freshest…
Parc National du Mercantour
You can expect zingy, creative food at the Black Rose, a local's tip down one of Barcelonnette's little backstreets. The portions are generous, and the…
Côte d'Azur
Eclectic and hip, this imaginative beachside space is the place to dine and/or drink. Loll on cushioned seating beneath the trees or pick a table on the…
Toulon
Traditional Provençal flavours get a modern twist at this little side-of-the-street brasserie, run by young entrepreneurs Pierre Andreini and Martial…
Camargue
Le Mas de Peint's gourmet restaurant, masterminded by highly credentialled chef Grégory Brousse, offers seasonal menus and Camarguais dishes in a choice…
Cannes
Very trendy and very popular, this Manhattan-style diner with its vast front terrace is a favourite hang-out for Cannes' young and beautiful crowd, who…
Vaucluse
For something a bit different, try this local's tip little restaurant in the old town, which dabbles with ingredients like squid ink, tempura batter,…
Vaucluse
This top-class restaurant has been run by local chef Jean-Michel Bérengier for going on three decades, and it's firmly established itself for its classic…
Var
Reserve ahead to get a spot in this tiny Provençal restaurant run ably by a husband-and-wife team. Expect dishes such as mushroom-stuffed rabbit leg with…
