Must-see restaurants in Provence & the Côte d'Azur

  • Le Martagon

    Parc National du Mercantour

    A smart modern restaurant-with-rooms in the quiet village of Villars-Colmars, perfect for a lunch or dinner stop, with mountain specialities such as…

  • Socca d'Or

    Nice

    Locals swear by the authentic Niçois specialities served at this low-key neighbourhood eatery: pan bagnat (southern France's iconic tuna sandwich) on…

  • Côté Jardin

    Cannes

    Craving a break from Cannes' glitz and grandiosity? This down-to-earth bistro on a residential backstreet is the perfect antidote. Enjoy superb-value…

  • Voyageur Nissart

    Nice

    There's a sense of rote predictability about this checked tablecloth bistro that's been cranking out Niçois favourites for the past several decades. The…

  • Les Filles du Pâtissier

    Bouches-du-Rhône

    Particularly perfect on sultry summer nights, this upbeat, colourful cafe has vintage tables filling one corner of a delightful car-free square in the old…

  • Le Potager

    The Luberon

    Located at the lovely Bastide du Jas B&B, this refined restaurant has proved popular both with the locals and the foodie guides (it recently received a…

  • La Gauloise

    Nice

    With red and black booths and lashings of exposed brick, this cheerful place in the heart of the Libération neighbourhood serves up solid brasserie food…

  • Le Canon

    Nice

    Elmahdi Mobarik and Sébastien Perinetti take locally sourced cuisine to the next level at this cosy neighbourhood bistro. Every farmer is listed by name…

  • La Casita

    Camargue

    The charismatic couple who run this unpretentious address, with cartwheels for tables, cook up the catch of the day à la plancha (grilled) for eight…

  • Le Fournil

    The Luberon

    In the middle of town next to the fountain, ‘The Oven’ is another of Bonnieux’ most consistent tables. There’s a choice of settings: the swish interior …

  • Le Môlé Passédat

    Marseille

    On the top floor of Marseille’s flagship museum, MuCEM, Michelin-starred chef Gérald Passedat cooks up exquisite French fare alongside big blue views of…

  • Calypso – Lou Santen

    Camargue

    A seasonal regular, this beach restaurant shaded by a reed pergola provides the perfect lookout to the Plage Ouest and the Mediterranean beyond. Lounge at…

  • Les Deux Frères

    Côte d'Azur

    This gourmet hotel-restaurant with panoramic terrace is super stylish. Eight chic boutique rooms (doubles €75 to €110) – two with sea view – slumber up…

  • La Buvette de Jean-Marc

    Côte d'Azur

    This humble buvette (snack bar) has a noble history. Proprietor Jean-Marc is the son of local legend Billy Allari, who ran his own popular buvette on this…

  • Le J

    Côte d'Azur

    Run by a husband-and-wife team with years of international restaurant experience, this sweet little bistro is all about Mediterranean classics made with…

  • Chez Jeannot

    Marseille

    Occupying a magical spot on the little harbour of Vallon des Auffes, this old favourite has a split-level layout and picture windows overlooking the boats…

  • La Casa di Giorgio

    Nice

    Don't let Giorgio's informal mom-and-pop vibe fool you! Snagging a seat at one of its red-and-white checked tables requires serious advance planning. With…

  • Le 10

    Côte d'Azur

    This convivial bistro in a cosy old two-storey house serves a single fixed menu each evening. It's a bit like being invited to a friend's house for dinner…

  • Maison Gusto

    Nice

    At this serious mozzarella-lover's bar, tasting platters of burrata, stracciatella, mozzarella di bufala, charcuterie and salad can keep you busy all…

  • Les Buffets du Vieux Port

    Marseille

    This is no ordinary all-you-can-eat: a sleek modern dining room spreads around a buffet overflowing with Italian, Spanish and (above all) Provençal…

  • Au Vieux Gassin

    Côte d'Azur

    When the sun's out and you have nowhere pressing to be, there can be few sweeter terraces to enjoy a prolonged Provençal meal than Au Vieux Gassin's. With…

  • Fou de Fafa

    Avignon

    A typical French bistro, Fou de Fafa's strength lies in simplicity – fresh ingredients, bright flavours, convivial surroundings (and a notably early…

  • Noisette Café et Cuisine

    Cannes

    There's not a soupçon of pretension about this cosy little Italian tucked away between La Croisette and rue d'Antibes. With its sea-blue furniture and…

  • Au Jardin des Carmes

    Avignon

    There's one standout reason to lunch at this homey restaurant, and that's the delightful courtyard garden, shaded by sails, tall bamboo and climbing…

  • Auberge des Maures

    St-Tropez

    The town’s oldest restaurant remains the locals’ choice for always-good, copious portions of earthy Provençal cooking, like daube (braised-beef stew),…

  • Le Cafe du Village

    Vaucluse

    After a spot of weekend browsing in the antique markets, this convivial cafe is where everyone heads for a no-fuss lunch packed with French flavours. The…

  • Le G’Envie

    St-Tropez

    Run by ebullient owners Alain and Nuno, this pint-sized restaurant feels like it's peaking right now: there's so much skill and enthusiasm expended on…

  • La Bidule

    Aix-en-Provence

    Places come and go around the Forum des Cardeurs, but ‘The Thingy’ is an enduring, cheap and cheerful favourite, with flowery PVC tablecloths, a vast…

  • Le Galoubet

    Arles

    Eighteenth-century stone walls, a wooden bar, a fireplace, friendly staff and French/Provençal food that's not afraid to play with Asian ingredients like…

  • La Grange

    Camargue

    If you've developed a desire to get closer to the Camargue's bulls by eating them, then head to the Grange, an ode to Camargue's gardians, with bull…

  • Chez Camille

    Côte d'Azur

    Deep terracotta walls hide this blue-and-white-tiled fishing cottage, dating from 1913. Now onto its fourth generation, the beachside restaurant is famous…

  • E.A.T.

    Avignon

    Weird name; great food. This back-alley bistro near place Crillon is a strong local's tip. It's very French, but borrows flavours and spices freely:…

  • La Cantinetta

    Marseille

    This classy Italian trattoria on the buzzy cours Julien is perennially popular. All the pasta here is homemade, and ingredients are sourced from Italy…

  • Le Rocher

    Antibes

    At weekends and in high season, reservations are essential at this good-value beach restaurant with waterside terrace overlooking Cap d'Antibes' legendary…

  • La Tarte Tropézienne

    St-Tropez

    This smart, bustling cafe-bakery is the creator of St Tropez' eponymous sugar-crusted, orange-perfumed cake, but also does decent breads and light meals…

  • Fadoli et Fadola

    Arles

    Well-stuffed sandwiches – made to order, frotté à l'ail (rubbed with garlic) and dripping with silken AOC Vallée des Baux olive oil – lure the crowds to…

  • Chez Étienne

    Marseille

    Family photos and veteran service staff hint at the longevity of this Le Panier favourite, known for authentic, hand-thrown pizza, topped with homemade…

  • Bistrot Le 5

    The Luberon

    Lunch with a view? Mais oui – and what a view. On the village's edge, this popular bistro boasts a grandstand, tree-shaded terrace overlooking classic…

  • Au Chineur

    Vaucluse

    The best of the roll-call of bistros lining the canals, this quintessentially French bistro is a perfect place for lunch, complete with the checked…

  • Auberge du Mérou

    Bouches-du-Rhône

    Niolon, a tiny cluster of houses clinging to the Calanque de Niolon, offers no better dining than at this lovely auberge (inn), with its sea-view terrace…