Restaurants in Provence
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A
Le Rhul
This long-standing classic has atmosphere (however kitschy): a 1940s seaside hotel with Mediterranean views. This is one of the most reliably consistent spot for real bouillabaisse.
reviewed
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Le Platane
Everything is made from scratch at this simple, correct restaurant, which uses quality ingredients in its changing French menus. Leafy terrace good on balmy nights.
reviewed
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B
L’Épicerie
Tables spill into the cobbled square outside Église St-Pierre – reason enough to linger at this tiny spot, with Mediterranean dishes like lamb tajine, spiced beef with vegetable crumble, and assiette des épicières (mixed plate). It is closed for winter and the first two weeks of August.
reviewed
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C
L'Entrevue
Excellent, heaping bowls of organic tajines and couscous are served briskly quay-side.
reviewed
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D
Le Grain de Sel
Locals pack this slender bistro for treats like gnocchi with shellfish and fennel or decadent desserts like crème brûlée with rum, chestnuts and orange. Reservations essential.
reviewed
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E
Le Gibolin
Sup on peerless home-cooking while the friendly patroness bustles between tables, offers ladies fresh roses and her Jack Russell terrier nips at her heels. A wine bar, really, the pairings are magnifique. No credit cards.
reviewed
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F
Le Comptoir Dugommier
Tin molding, wooden floors and vintage signs make a homey escape from the busy street outside. The place gets packed for its downhome French fare, like andouillette sausage stewed with artichokes.
reviewed
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G
Le Cafouch aux Saveurs
Quick, tasty meals for the lunchtime crowd.
reviewed
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Le Café des Épices
One of Marseille's best young chefs, Arnaud de Grammont, infuses his cooking with a panoply of flavours…think squid ink spaghetti with sesame and perfectly cooked scallops, or tender roasted potatoes with hints of coriander and citrus, topped by the catch of the day. Presentation is impeccable, decor is playful, staff is friendly, and the place fills up reliably. Don't underestimate the desserts either.
Saturday lunch is particularly family-friendly on the sunny terrace leading onto an olive-tree lined pedestrianised square. Reservations essential.
reviewed
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L'Autruche
This modern, inviting restaurant run by husband-and-wife team Fabien and Ouria assembles market-fresh dishes to perfection. For example, their Michelin-experienced chef layers thin strips of granny smith apple chutney with a superbly prepared foie gras. Extravagant desserts are a treat.
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L'Atelier de Damien
Unframed paintings and worn tile floors lend a rough-around-the-edges look to this off-the-tourist-radar restaurant on Avignon's less-glamorous side. Chef Damien Demazure once cooked under Alain Ducasse, and draws inspiration from market-fresh ingredients, combining French with Asian – ginger, lemongrass and coriander are his favorites. Expect excellent fish, foie gras, and caramel-candy cake. Reserve.
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K
La Passarelle
Retro tables and chairs sit beneath lime-green parasols on a terrace between veggie and strawberry beds. Everything growing in the walled garden goes into something on Philippe and Patricia’s predominantly organic menu, and other products are strictly local.
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La Mado
This smart daytime cafe and modern restaurant is an unbeatable spot for coffee and fashionable-people watching, or a delicious, relaxed meal. It's been around for years, so the old guard dine while the hipsters shine. The buzzing terrace spills out onto the busy plaza. They also offer oysters and sushi.
reviewed
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M
La Casertane
Lunch on a mind-boggling array of Italian deli meats and salads, or choose from daily specials, often involving homemade pastas. Convivial staff and the bustling flow of clientele make for lively meals.
reviewed
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N
Jacquou Le Croquant
Slide into this tiny, low-key joint for home-cooked, wholesome basics.
reviewed
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O
Chez Féraud
This elegant, family-run restaurant tucked down a side street is as pretty as a French postcard. The menu features Provençal classics: soupe au pistou, aubergine en gratin, red peppers stuffed with brandade de morue.
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Chez Aldo
To blend in with the Marseillais families dining on the coast, share a thin-crust wood-fired pizza to start, followed by fish as a main.
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Café Populaire
Vintage tables and chairs, old books on the shelf and a fine collection of glass soda bottles all add to the retro air of this 1950s-styled jazz comptoir (counter). Plump for a stool at the zinc bar or lounge at a table with a view of the fabulous open kitchen, where simple daily specials like gambas à la plancha (fried prawns served on a hot plate) or beetroot and coriander salad are cooked up for a chic crowd.
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Q
Boulangerie Aixoise
Lines form out the door and onto the red-chaired terrace in front.
reviewed
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Pain de l'Opéra
Some of the best pastries near the Vieux Port; also has savoury foods.
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Le Glacier du Roi
Fantastic homemade Italian ice cream.
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Lemongrass
Spice up your Marseille dining experience at this refreshing place serving succulent Asian/French fusion creations such as peeled local lobsters in curry with tart Granny Smith apples, and coconut rice pudding in banana leaf.
reviewed
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Restaurant La Grotte
Located at the idyllic fishing port of Callelongue is Restaurant La Grotte where you can fuel up on crispy-crust pizzas or a proper fish lunch. By bus: from Rond Point du Prado metro stop, take Bus 19 to the route’s end, then transfer to Bus 20.
reviewed
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Le Lunch
This seasonal restaurant serves lunch with fabulous views, and requires reservations.
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