Must-see restaurants in Cuba

  • Guitarra Mia

    Trinidad

    Drift a few blocks from the centro histórico and crowds disperse without any measurable drop in food quality. Music is the theme in this interesting nook,…

  • El Figaro

    Habana Vieja

    This aptly named restaurant in Habana Vieja’s ‘barber’s alley’ is run by the grandson of the former chef to Meyer Lansky. He’s revitalized the notorious…

  • Esto no es un Café

    Habana Vieja

    Esto no es un café (this is not a cafe); it's a restaurant conjuring up thought-provoking dishes that pay homage to art icons. Try the Pollo Pollock …

  • Paladar Doña Carmela

    Regla, Guanabacoa & the Forts

    On the eastern side of the harbor in the small community near the forts, this private eating option gets filled up with tourists on their way to the…

  • Jíbaro

    Habana Vieja

    Located in a restored colonial mansion on the outskirts of Old Havana’s oldest quarter, Jíbaro is a great option for authentic Cuban food and much-praised…

  • La Cocina de Esteban

    Vedado

    A three-way explosion of Cuban, Italian and Spanish cuisine is guaranteed at this salubrious spot slap-bang in the middle of Vedado's hotel quarter. Bank…

  • Plan B

    Matanzas Province

    Make Plan B your plan A when visiting Cárdenas – particularly if you’re in the mood for ice cream. This diminutive place with five tables rustles up…

  • La Brisilla

    Regla, Guanabacoa & the Forts

    Unsignposted, hard to find and consequently almost 100% local, this is a rare private restaurant in Guanabacoa, where the food culture doesn't seem to…

  • Atlantida

    Varadero

    Like most restaurants in the busy crossroads of Santa Marta, Atlantida is set up mainly for Cubans, but has recently garnered a good reputation among…

  • El Palenque

    Havana

    A huge place next to the Pabexpo exhibition center that sprawls beneath a series of open-sided thatched bohíos (traditional Cuban huts), Palenque offers…

  • Restaurant La Berenjena

    Viñales

    A commendable attempt to fill a void in Cuba's food market – ie vegetarianism – La Berenjena inhabits a smart two-story house with an awning-covered…

  • Doctor Café

    Havana

    Ocean-flavored dishes such as ceviche, red snapper and grilled octopus are served in a fern-filled patio or a cooler indoor dining area; this doctor is…

  • El Tocororo

    Havana

    Once considered one of Havana's finest government-run restaurants, along with El Aljibe, El Tocororo has lost ground to new private competition in recent…

  • Dos Gardenias

    Havana

    Less a conventional eating space and more a tourist complex, Dos Gardenias sports two main restaurants (choose between a grill and a pasta place), a…

  • Tabarish

    Habana Vieja

    Relocated from Miramar’s residential area to bustling Calle O’Reilly, Tabarish is housed in a restored colonial building with high ceilings and wrought…

  • Woow Snack Bar

    Vedado

    In a country where ordering food used to be a rather taxing experience, Woow makes it incredibly easy. It combines a handy location on Vedado’s main…

  • Restaurante Presa de Florencia

    Ciego de Ávila Province

    A traditional open-sided restaurant under a thatched shelter on a small island in the middle of the Florencia reservoir. It serves straight-up Cuban food…

  • Razones y Motivos

    Vedado

    This two-piece restaurant has an open terrace upstairs (Motivos) with a barbecue and a no-frills international menu, and an air-conditioned space…

  • Topoly

    Vedado

    Cuba finds solidarity with Iran in Havana's first and still only Iranian restaurant, corralled in a lovely colonnaded mansion on arterial Calle 23. Sit on…

  • Café del Ángel Jacqueline Fumero

    Habana Vieja

    Guarding the small, heavenly square behind the Iglesia del Santo Ángel Custodio, minimalist Fumero (all white walls and clear plastic chairs) is run by a…

  • Papa's Complejo Turístico

    Havana

    There's all sorts of stuff going on at this joint at Marina Hemingway, from beer-swilling boatmen to warbling American Idol wannabes hogging the karaoke…

  • Café Ciudad

    Camagüey

    Camagüey has made Agramonte-like efforts to carve culinary quality into its historical inheritance. This lovely plaza-hugging colonial cafe melds…

  • Kike-Kcho

    Varadero

    A posh 'floating' restaurant in the Marina Gaviota, state-run Kike-Kcho pushes its lobster, which is caught locally and stored on-site meaning it's ultra…

  • Restaurante El Abra

    Isla de la Juventud

    An open-air place on delightful Presa El Abra, 4km southwest of the center, this is where pineros (people from the Isla) go on weekends to partake in…

  • El Mercurio

    Habana Vieja

    Sheltered in the Lonja de Comercio building with seating outside in Plaza de San Francisco de Asís, El Mercurio flirts with elegance (waitstaff in…

  • Salón 1720

    Holguín

    A painstakingly restored wedding cake mansion with a full social atmosphere. Tuck into paella or chicken stuffed with vegetables and cheese; there are…

  • La Ceiba

    Trinidad

    Set in a back patio under a giant ceiba tree, this upscale cafe specializes in pollo meloso (chicken in honey and lemon sauce). Order Trinidad’s favorite…

  • La Cuenca

    Viñales

    Looking less rustic than some of its Viñales brethren, La Cuenca's narrow covered terrace and funky black-and-white interior are rather tempting. The food…

  • El Uvero

    Holguín Province

    Four kilometers and a short taxi ride east of Guardalavaca's main resort strip, this modest-looking local house in the village of Cuatro Caminos is well…

  • La Carboncita

    Havana

    Small, discreet Miramar house turned Italian restaurant, with indoor and outdoor front-porch seating as well as a bar set up in what was formerly the…

  • Habana 61

    Habana Vieja

    Habana 61's menu features Cuban classics with a fresh twist. The lobster is among its most popular dishes, but the traditional ropa vieja (shredded beef)…

  • Dante

    Varadero

    Going strong since 1993, Dante takes its name from an entrepreneurial chef who continues to rustle up good Italian fare to complement the serene lakeside…

  • La Imprenta

    Habana Vieja

    This attractive state-run restaurant has a resplendent interior filled with memorabilia from the building's previous incarnation as a printing works. The…

  • Restaurante la Divina Pastora

    Regla, Guanabacoa & the Forts

    Near Dársena de los Franceses and a battery of 18th-century cannons, this dramatically sited waterside restaurant lies in the shadow of La Cabaña fort…

  • Casa Española

    Havana

    A medieval parody built in the Batista era by the silly-rich Gustavo Gutiérrez y Sánchez, this crenellated castle in Miramar has found new life as a…

  • Restaurante Mimi

    Trinidad

    Simple, hearty Cuban food and the usual Italian suspects emerge from this kitchen, all made with love and served at reasonable prices. Mains are preceded…

  • Las Majaguas

    Outer Havana

    Sandwiched between Parque Lenin and the Jardin Botánico Nacional, Las Majaguas is a tourist-free zone where locals come to play pool and other bar games…

  • El Idilio

    Vedado

    A bold, adventurous neighborhood joint with checked tablecloths, Idilio epitomizes the Cuban culinary scene as it spreads its wings and flies. Anything…

  • La Ceiba

    Outer Havana

    La Ceiba is a thatched ranchón at the northern entrance to Parque Lenin, close to where the galloping horse hustlers congregate. Come here for the…

  • El Gobernador

    Santa Clara

    In this new era of competition from independents, state-run places have to perform better, and this one certainly has had a go. In a glamorous former…