Restaurants in Havana
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Paladar La Guarida
Located on the top floor of a spectacularly dilapidated Havana tenement, La Guarida’s lofty reputation rests on its movie-location setting ( Fresa y Chocolate was filmed in this building) and a clutch of swashbuckling newspaper reviews (including the New York Times and the Guardian ). The food, as might be expected, is up there with Havana’s best, shoehorning its captivating blend of Nueva Cocina Cubana into dishes such as sea bass in a coconut reduction, and chicken with honey and lemon sauce. Reservations required.
reviewed
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Los Nardos
Directly opposite the Capitolio but easy to miss, Los Nardos is one of a handful of semi-private Havana restaurants operated by the Spanish Asturianas society. Touted in some quarters as one of the best eateries in the city, this unprepossessing place is decked out in mahogany and leather and serves up such astoundingly delicious dishes as lobster in a Catalan sauce, garlic prawns with sautéed vegetables and an authentic Spanish paella. Portions are huge and the prices, which start at around CUC$4 for chicken and pork dishes, are unbelievably cheap.
reviewed
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Paladar La Fontana
Havana discovers the barbecue or, more to the point, the full-on charcoal grill. Huge portions of meat and fish are served up in this amiable villa-cum-paladar, so go easy on the starters which include crab mixed with eggplant, quail eggs and fried chickpeas. La Fontana specializes in just about everything you’ll never see elsewhere in Cuba, from lasagna to huge steaks. Big-shot reviews from the Cigar Aficionado and the Chicago Tribune testify the burgeoning legend.
reviewed
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Café Literario del ‘G’
If Havana has a proverbial Left Bank, this is it, a laid-back student hangout full of arty wall scribblings and coffee-quaffing intellectuals discussing the merits of Guillén over Lorca. Kick back in the airy front patio among the green plants and dusty books and magazines (available to read, lend and buy), and keep an ear out for one of the regular trova (traditional music), jazz and poetry presentations.
reviewed
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Museo del Chocolate
Chocolate addicts beware. This quirky ‘museum’ in the heart of Habana Vieja offers a lethal dose of chocolate, chocolate and yet more chocolate. (And it’s all made on the premises too.) Situated – with no irony intended – on the corner of narrow Calle Amargura (Bitterness St), this venerable sweet-toothed establishment is actually more a café than a museum, with a small cluster of marble tables set among an interesting assortment of chocolate paraphernalia. Not surprisingly everything on the delicious menu contains one all-pervading ingredient – have it hot, cold, white, dark, rich, or smooth, the stuff is divine whatever way you choose.
reviewed
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El Templete
This upscale restaurant is situated less than 100m from its namesake temple, where the city of Habana was founded in 1519. Overlooking the harbor, the eating space is split into two halves: an outdoor alfresco area accommodated under a large awning, and a pleasant indoor dining room with starched tablecloths and expensive-looking wine glasses. For once the food quality lives up to the pretensions of the fancy decor, with seafood specialties spearheaded by shrimps and lobster. Count on forking out CUC$15 minimum for a main course here.
reviewed
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Restaurante la Torre
One of Habana’s tallest and most talked about restaurants is perched high above downtown Vedado atop the 36-story Edificio Focsa. A colossus of modernist architecture and French-Cuban haute cuisine, this lofty fine-dining extravaganza combines sweeping city views with a progressive French-inspired menu that serves everything from artichokes to foie gras to almond tart. The prices at CUC$30 a pop are as distinctly un-Cuban as the ingredients, but with this level of service, it’s probably worth it.
reviewed
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Rancho Coquito
At last, a decent restaurant on the Malecón. Run by the local Spanish Asturianas society, this is an inconspicuous food joint with a balcony that overlooks Havana’s dreamy 8km sea drive (look for the waiter posted outside) and is frequented mainly by Cubans. Upstairs, the food is tasty and unbelievably cheap. Paella goes for CUC$7, garbanzos fritos (fried chickpeas) CUC$5, tortilla CUC$3 and a decent portion of lobster pan-fried in butter for a giveaway CUC$8.
reviewed
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El Aljibe
On paper a humble Palmares restaurant, but in reality a rip-roaring culinary extravaganza, El Aljibe has been delighting both Cuban and foreign diplomatic taste buds for years. The furor surrounds the gastronomic mysteries of just one dish, the obligatory pollo asado (roast pork), which is served up with as-much-as-you-can-eat helpings of white rice, black beans, fried plantain, French fries and salad. The accompanying bitter orange sauce is said to be a state secret.
reviewed
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Café de las Infusiones
Wedged into Calle Mercaderes, this recently restored Habaguanex coffee house is a caffeine addict’s heaven; it boasts a wonderful resident pianist, too. Fancier than your average Cuban coffee bar and more comprehensive than the Escorial, you can order more than a dozen different cuppas here, including Irish coffee (CUC$3.50), punch coffee (CUC$5), mocha (CUC$1), cappuccino (CUC$1.75) and so on.
reviewed
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Restaurante Europa
Fine fin de siècle furnishings lure you into this former Havana sweet shop that recently got a restaurant makeover by the City’s Historian’s office and Habaguanex. They obviously forgot to makeover the chef. Despite a menu that boasts of prize-winning cuisine (what prize?), the plate doesn’t quite live up to the billing, though the ambience is pleasant and the service eager.
reviewed
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La Julia
It’s been around long enough to be called an institution and outlasted almost all the opposition – except, perhaps, Fidel. La Julia is an unfussy family-run paladar in Calle O’Reilly that serves Cuban comfort food – comida criolla – with patience and panache.
reviewed
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Restaurante Las Orishas
This Santería-themed place in Guanabacoa has a very pleasant garden bar in a courtyard with colorful Afro-Cuban sculptures. The menu is reasonable and varied, with everything from a CUC$1 microwaved cheese pizza to a CUC$20-plus lobster. There’s good rumba music here at weekends.
reviewed
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Al Medina
Tucked into a beautiful patio off Calle Oficios, Al Medina is where you can dine like a Moroccan sheik on lamb couscous (CUC$10), chicken tagine (CUC$5) and Lebanese sumac (CUC$8) with a spicy twist. It’s especially recommended for its voluminous veggie platter that comes with hummus, tabouleh, dolma, pilaf and falafel.
reviewed
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Don Cuba
A visit to Parque Lenin can be combined with a trip to ExpoCuba at Calabazar on the Carretera del Rocío in Arroyo Naranjo, 3km south of Las Ruinas restaurant. Opened in 1989, this large permanent exhibition showcases Cuba's economic and scientific achievements in 25 pavilions based on themes such as sugar, farming, apiculture, animal science, fishing, construction, food, geology, sports and defense. Cubans visiting ExpoCuba flock to the amusement park at the center of the complex, bypassing the rather dry propaganda displays. Don Cuba , a revolving restaurant, is atop a tower. The Feria Internacional de La Habana, Cuba's largest trade fair, is held at ExpoCuba the first…
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Paladar Calle 10
Paladar Calle 10 is situated in – ur – Calle 10 in the ‘posh’ Miramar neighborhood and, while the name might be a little unimaginative, the food certainly isn’t. Set up barbecue-style in the owner’s back garden, the alfresco seating is arranged under an attractive thatched canopy and the printed menu is both varied and adventurous. Delicious main dishes include octopus (CUC$5), ropa vieja (CUC$7) and a tempting chicken in balsamic vinegar (CUC$8). Portions are huge and arrive with assorted roasted vegetables and a memorable pureed potato. There are even profiteroles for dessert.
reviewed
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Asociación Canaria de Cuba
One of a number of Spanish social clubs that serve food, the Asociación Canaria de Cuba, behind the Hotel Plaza, is housed in a venerable red-bricked building with a rather fancy lobby. By contrast the restaurant upstairs is a far more basic affair with strip lighting, plastic flowers and crummy tablecloths. But for regulars, the ambience is only secondary – the main reason to come here is for the food. The grilled lobster for CUC$6.50 is one of the city’s biggest bargains; add in shrimp enchiladas for CUC$5, and beef stew or pork steak for CUC$2, and you’re laughing all the way to the change booth.
reviewed
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Paladar le Chansonnier
A great place to dine if a) you can find it (there’s no sign), and b) it’s open (the staff seem to be in the habit of taking regular sabbaticals). Hidden in an elegant dining room in a faded mansion-turned-paladar, it’s not just the name of this place that’s French; French wine, French furniture and French flavors also predominate. House specialties include rabbit in red-wine sauce, chicken smothered in mushrooms, Dijon pork chops, and gigantic salads for herbivores. It’s also one of Habana’s few truly gay-friendly establishments. Phone ahead to check it’s open.
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Las Ruinas
One of Havana’s most celebrated restaurants – at least in an architectural sense – is situated on the southeast side of Parque Lenin. Melding off-beat modern architecture – including some eye-catching stained glass by Cuban artist René Portocarrero – onto the ruins of an old sugar mill, this place has an arty and elegant atmosphere, though the food (which is grossly overpriced) doesn’t quite live up to the lavish setting. The menu includes lobster plus a selection of Cuban and Italian dishes and you’ll be lucky to get much change out of CUC$30. Overrated.
reviewed
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Restaurante Oasis
The Oasis is housed in the Centro Cultural de Arabe, but don’t be fooled by the Middle Eastern myth. The food here is bog-standard Cuban, and not particularly good at that – unless you have a penchant for dodgy hot dogs or soggy sandwiches – but it’s the kind of place where’s you’ll see Cubans eating, and it makes no provision for ‘Western’ palates. The shop downstairs is handy for late-night groceries, but the weekend disco is a filled with jineteras (women who attach themselves to male foreigners for monetary or material gain).
reviewed
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Los Portales
The primary – nay only – reason to come to this ground-floor restaurant in the four-star Hotel Plaza is for the pizza, which – rather surprisingly – is among the best and cheapest in Habana. Don’t be put off by the restaurant’s fancy decor (the tables and chairs look as if they’ve been decked out for a wedding) – the prices here are very reasonable. A decent pizza with one or two extra toppings shouldn’t cost you more than CUC$4. The flan (baked custard with caramel glaze) makes for a nice dessert.
reviewed
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La Esperanza
Few would disagree that the food, ambience and gastronomic creativity showcased at this unassuming Miramar paladar puts it among Havana’s (and undoubtedly Cuba’s) best eating establishments. While unspectacular from the street, the interior of this house is a riot of quirky antiques, old portraits and refined 1940s furnishings. The food, which is produced in a standard-sized family kitchen, includes such exquisite dishes as pollo luna de miel (chicken flambéed in rum), fish marinated in white wine, lemon and garlic, and a lamb brochette.
reviewed
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Restaurante La Dominica
Despite a tendency to be a little overgenerous with the olive oil, La Dominica – with its wood-fired pizza oven and al dente pasta – could quite legitimately stake its claim as Havana’s finest Italian restaurant. Located in an elegantly restored dining room with alfresco seating on Calle O’Reilly, the menu offers Italy’s ‘usual suspects’ augmented by shrimp and lobster (CUC$10 to CUC$18). Professional house bands serenade diners with a slightly more eclectic set than the obligatory Buena Vista Social Club staples.
reviewed
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La Torre
One of Havana’s tallest and most talked-about restaurants is perched high above downtown Vedado atop the skyline-hogging Focsa building. A colossus of both modernist architecture and French/Cuban haute cuisine, this lofty fine-dining extravaganza combines sweeping city views with a progressive French-inspired menu that serves everything from artichokes to foie gras to tart almandine. The prices at CUC$30 a pop (and the rest!) are as distinctly non-Cuban as the ingredients, but with this level of service, it’s probably worth it.
reviewed
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Paladar EI Hurón Azul
This place is often touted as one of Havana’s best private restaurants and, although the food might be tasty, the windowless interior combined with the preponderance of after-dinner smokers can leave your meal tasting more like nicotine than comida criolla. Nonetheless, the Hurón Azul (Blue Ferret) boasts plenty of original food and is locally famous for its adventurous smoked pork served with a pineapple salsa. That said, it’s not cheap, averaging CUC$15 a pop plus a 10% service charge added to every bill. Reserve ahead.
reviewed
