Restaurants in Sūzhōu
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Lǜyáng Húntundiàn
Founded in 1802, Lǜyáng moved here in 1999 and continues to satisfy ever-hungry local appetites with wonton dumplings ( 馄饨, húntun, Y8 to Y15), fried rice dishes ( 炒饭, chǎofàn, Y12 to Y15) and soups ( 汤, tāng, Y8 to Y12). No English menu, but try yínyú húntun ( 银鱼馄饨, whitebait wonton soup, Y15), gālí jīdīng chǎofàn ( 咖喱鸡丁炒饭, curry-flavoured chicken fried rice, Y15) or yāxuè fěnsī tāng ( 鸭血粉丝汤, duck’s blood soup, Y8). They also do delicious steamed dumplings ( 小笼包, xiǎolóngbāo, Y8 for four dumplings). Pay first at the counter, then hand your slip to a waitress.
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Zhūhóngxìng
One of Sūzhōu’s most popular noodle joints, this canteen-style place was founded in 1934 and moved here in 2000. If you can’t decipher the badly translated English menu, try; ‘braise the meat noodles’ ( 焖蹄浇面; mèntí jiāomiàn; Y15) – noodles with pig trotters – or; ‘burst the and braise the meat noodles’ ( 虾仁煲鳝面; xiārén bāoshànmiàn; Y35) – which is actually the restaurant’s speciality seafood noodle dish with prawn and eel.
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Bookworm
Set back from Shiquan Jie, over the other side of the canal, and housed in an attractive white-washed, two-storey building, Bookworm makes a smart choice for a coffee stop. Like its popular Běijīng branch, this one also has a fantastic range of English-language books, some of which are for sale, and hosts occasional cultural events (check the website for details). The Western-friendly food is pricy. Has wi-fi.
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Mario's Pizza Ristorante Bar Caffe
If you get a hankering for something Italian, head to this simple little place near the North Temple Pagoda. Mario's is by far the best place to eat continental cuisine in Sūzhōu. Try one of its authentic pizzas or pasta dishes - the sauces are all homemade and fabulous.
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Sōnghé Lóu
This 200- year-old restaurant is the most famous in town and supposedly Emperor Qianlong's favourite when he came to visit. Here you can choose from a variety of Sūzhōu-style dishes, including the popular mandarin fish. Food is good but expensive and service can be brusque.
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Bǐ’àn
Housed in a gorgeous wooden building that juts out slightly over the water, Bǐ’àn is the cutest of a bunch of canal-side cafes along Pingjiang Lu. There’s beer (from Y18) and a huge selection of tea. Has wi-fi.
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Yángyáng Shuǐjiǎoguǎn
In this unassuming mom-and-pop eatery you can feast on a dozen tasty boiled dumplings (水饺; shuǐjiǎo) for a mere Y5. The restaurant also serves inexpensive veggie and meat dishes.
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Bǎochén Fàndiàn
If you’re fed up with all the restaurants around here closing before you’re even hungry, this one’s open all night. It specialises in dishes from Yúnnán province. English menu.
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7&7
This large, cafeteria-style restaurant near the park in the Guanqian Jie pedestrian area has a line up of stir-fries, noodle dishes and steamed breads to choose from, all at rock-bottom prices.
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Déyuè Lóu
Across the way from Zhūhóngxìng Miànguǎn, this place has been around since the Ming dynasty, with a menu featuring over 300 items and an emphasis on freshwater fish. It's a popular stop for tour groups and for large wedding parties, and feels a little over the top at times.
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Shǔxiāng Guǎn
Tea house by day, quiet bar by night, this place sometimes has free performances of píngtán during the afternoons.
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Zhūhóngxìng Miànguǎn
Popular with locals, this eatery, with several branches across town, has a long history and wholesome, filling noodles – try the xiānglà páigǔmiàn (香辣排骨面; salty pork and noodles; Y15) or the scrummy cōngyóu xiānggūmiàn (葱油香菇面, onion oil and mushroom noodles, Y10). Note: there's no English menu.
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Yàkèxī
The Uighur kitsch atmosphere is entertaining and the Xīnjiāng staples – lamb kebabs (Y2.50), hot and spicy lamb soup (Y16) and nang bread (Y3) – all tasty. Round it off with a bottle of SinKiang beer (Y10) or a sour milk drink (Y8) and dream of Kashgar. No time to sit down? The lamb kebabs are grilled just outside.
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Xīshèngyuán
Crowds pay and gather near the entrance to wait for the steaming fresh xǐaolóng bāo (小龙包; soup dumplings; Y6) to come out of the kitchen. If you don't want to jostle, grab a seat and order several other great dishes including assorted húntūn (馄饨; dumplings; Y6 to Y10).
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Pingvon
A cute little teahouse perched beside one of Sūzhōu's most popular canalside streets. Pingvon serves up excellent dumplings and delicate little morsels in baskets and on small plates. Try the green tea Buddha biscuit and pan-fried dumplings.
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