Restaurants in Kabul
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Le Bistro
In a pleasant Kabuli house, this French restaurant has its own bakery attached, making the continental breakfast (US$10) a treat of bread, pastry and croissants. Evening meals are good, even if the servings are a little on the small side. Carpets and paintings festoon the walls, and there are regular art shows and sales on site.
reviewed
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B
Cabul Coffee House
With funky paintings on the wall and some mellow jazz on the stereo, this is a great addition to the Kabul scene. As befits its name, the coffee is great, as are the juices. Grab a paper or something from the bookswap and chill out in the garden. The menu has sandwiches (from 300Afg), burgers and the like.
reviewed
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C
Sufi
Sufi is a little way out of town, nestled beneath the Intercontinental Hotel, but it’s worth the trip. Beautifully decorated with prints and fabrics, guests eat Afghan style, seated on cushions and carpets around low tables (though there are some tables and chairs too). There’s a wide variety of Afghan dishes, nicely served up – we particularly enjoyed the kofte chalau (minced kebabs with dried fruit and saffron).
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D
Kulba Afghan
This restaurant is almost two in one, as it sits on the third floor above the also popular Rose Restaurant. What makes this more of a draw is the live Afghan music from 6pm to 10pm, and booths with cushions to tuck yourself into. Stuff yourself with the huge Kulba special (300Afg) which has a bit of everything – pulao, kebabs, mantu, chips, qorma (stewed vegetables), plus salad, yogurt and a soft drink.
reviewed
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Chaila
Ever popular with the large number of expats who live in west Kabul, Chaila is a joint Afghan-American enterprise. They serve brick-oven pizzas and quiche, as well as sandwiches and home-made ice cream, but they’re best known for their milkshakes and superb coffee – the cappuccinos and espressos are simply fantastic. It’s all tastefully decorated, and they have wi-fi and cable TV to boot.
reviewed
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E
La Cantina
There’s a full range of Tex-Mex food on offer here, with great plates of nachos, burritos and bowls of chilli – tick off your choices on the menu sheet and present it to the waiter to order. Dining is al fresco, with the traditional Afghan courtyard garden pressed into service as a half-decent pueblo substitute (hence the dining season is restricted to the warmer months). Alcohol is served.
reviewed
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Haji Baba
Run by a genial Afghan, the food here bridges the gap between Persian and Herati food. The surroundings are brisk and simple, not that the many locals passing through seem to mind. They’re here for bowls of thick chicken shorwa (soup) and plates of moist kebabs, king of which is maheecha, a sublime oven-baked leg of lamb. Be sure to leave room for dessert.
reviewed
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F
Khosha
This place was freshly minted when we visited and looked a treat. The rooftop setting gives great views over Kabul, while the interior is decorated with Kuchi textiles. As well as Afghan favourites, there are some good vegetable dishes normally found only in the home, like banjan borani (aubergine with tomatoes and yogurt), plus a great lamb qorma with chickpeas.
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G
Anaar
Recently relocated to new premises, Anaar remains one of Kabul’s lovelier restaurants. There’s a wide selection of Thai, Indian and Chinese dishes with vegetarians particularly well-catered for. Thankfully, the new premises still feature a lantern-hung garden for al fresco dining, otherwise withdraw to the cosy interior, decorated with traditional Afghan crafts.
reviewed
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H
Taverna du Liban
Several Lebanese restaurants have come and gone in Kabul; this one has stayed the course. Tables are easily laden with mezze like houmous, tabouleh and Lebanese salad, making it easy to fill up before hitting the grill for your main. At the end of your meal, you can relax by smoking a shisha, perfect in the garden in the warmer months.
reviewed
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I
Flower Street Café
The name is momentarily confusing, as this café is nowhere near Flower St. It’s worth finding though, as it does some great sandwiches and burgers served in a flowery garden, with cake for afters. Alternatively they’ll deliver your lunch to your door, but that means you’ll miss out on the great smoothies and cappuccinos.
reviewed
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J
Carlitos
Carlitos touts itself as Kabul’s best Mexican restaurant, and not happy with that crown, it then goes on to attempt Lebanese, Indian and anything else it can think of. It’s at its best in the summer, when the Thursday and Friday buffet and barbeque comes into play. With a bar attached, it’s deservedly popular.
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K
Delhi Darbar
A popular choice for Indian food, and successful enough to create a mini-franchise, with branches in Mazar-e Sharif and even Tajikistan. The focus is on north Indian cuisine, plus some fiery curries and lots of vegetarian options. The one-dish-fits-all thalis remain a prize attraction, washed down with a cold lager.
reviewed
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L
Sufi 2
A sister branch to the original Sufi, this was just opening during research. With the decor and service borrowed from its sibling, lunch is a big thing here, with lots of delicious dishes like pumpkin boloni (stuffed pancakes), samosas and some great sweets like gosh-e fil (elephant’s ear) pastries.
reviewed
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M
Samarqand
This relaxed restaurant was one of the most popular in town when we dropped in, serving a mix of Central Asian food – beautifully flavoured rice and meat options – and international dishes. The regular theme nights liven things up, with Chinese food on Friday, and salsa dancing on Wednesday and Saturday.
reviewed
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N
Popolano
Popolano offered Kabul’s first post-Taliban pizza, and is still going strong. The fickle expat dining scene means it hasn’t been trendy for several years and it gets a correspondingly decent Afghan crowd, but we still like its strong blend of pizza and pasta, served in something approaching a bistro.
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O
Vila Velebita
The name of this restaurant seems to confound many Afghans, but it’s actually named for a famous Croatian nationalist song. The quality of the food is high, with wood-oven pizzas, and a mix of pasta, steak and seafood, but the price tag is equally steep, especially if you throw in a bottle of Croatian wine.
reviewed
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Silk Route
Southeast Asian food mightn’t be quite what you were expecting at the Serena Hotel’s flagship restaurant, but it delivers with some aplomb, with a variety of tasty Thai, Vietnamese and Indonesian dishes – however incongruous. The setting is immaculate, so dressing smartly is a good idea.
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Baku
What do you eat in an Azeri restaurant? It turns out to be a mix of Afghan and Turkish food, with hearty shashlik (kebabs) and plov (pulao) balanced out by dolma (stuffed leaves) and other treats. With regular flights from Baku to Kabul, it makes sense to give this place a try.
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Shamiana
The Safi Landmark’s rooftop restaurant tries its hand at a bit of everything Indian, Chinese and Afghan, plus a dash of Italian and anything else they can think of. It mostly works, and its plush surroundings means that you’ll be dining next to some extremely rich Afghans at the next table.
reviewed
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Café Zarnegar
If you’re in need of a splurge, come here from 11am for Friday brunch. There’s a huge buffet with everything from tremendous salads and burgers through to sushi (yes, sushi), plus some Afghan dishes to remind you what country you’re in if the surrounding glitz makes you forget.
reviewed
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T
French Bakery
A tiny shop opposite the Kabul Bank, this is a great place for a mid-morning bite, with some heavenly banana cakes and brownies. They’re a little dry by the end of the day; we’re not sure if this is a product of the genuine ‘Frenchised’ baking process advertised.
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Lai Thai
Is there an expat left in Kabul who hasn’t eaten here? We doubt it. With wonderful food in a traditional Thai setting, the owner has made a habit of opening in war-torn areas – there are sister outfits in Kosovo and East Timor. Tasty spring rolls and satay are US$4 each.
reviewed
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Golden Key Seafood
Of the Chinese restaurants, this is our favourite, despite the old adage of never eating seafood in a land-locked country. Flown in from Dubai, the fish and shellfish (and meat dishes) are actually excellent, and come with as many noodle and rice options as you could wish for.
reviewed
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W
Chief Burger
Western fast food, Afghan-style. This place is heaving at lunchtime, with local workers and students (there’s a ‘family lounge’ for women). There are burgers, pizzas and a great tandoori chicken, served on nan with fries. Quick, tasty and filling.
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