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Anaar
Recently relocated to new premises, Anaar remains one of Kabul's lovelier restaurants. There's a wide selection of Thai, Indian and Chinese dishes with vegetarians particularly well-catered for. Thankfully, the new premises still feature a lantern-hung garden for al fresco dining, otherwise withdraw to the cosy interior, decorated with traditional Afghan crafts.
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Baku
What do you eat in an Azeri restaurant? It turns out to be a mix of Afghan and Turkish food, with hearty shashlik (kebabs) and plov (pulao) balanced out by dolma (stuffed leaves) and other treats. With regular flights from Baku to Kabul, it makes sense to give this place a try.
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Cabul Coffee House
With funky paintings on the wall and some mellow jazz on the stereo, this is a great addition to the Kabul scene. As befits its name, the coffee is great, as are the juices. Grab a paper or something from the bookswap and chill out in the garden. The menu has sandwiches, burgers and the like.
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Café Zarnegar
If you're in need of a splurge, come here from for Friday brunch. There's a huge buffet with everything from tremendous salads and burgers through to sushi (yes, sushi), plus some Afghan dishes to remind you what country you're in if the surrounding glitz makes you forget.
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Carlitos
Carlitos touts itself as Kabul's best Mexican restaurant, and not happy with that crown then goes on to attempt Lebanese, Indian and anything else it can think of. It's at its best in the summer, when the Thursday and Friday buffet and barbeque comes into play. With a bar attached, it's deservedly popular.
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Chief Burger
Western fast food, Afghan-style. This place is heaving at lunchtime, with local workers and students (there's a 'family lounge' for women). There are burgers, pizzas and a great tandoori chicken, served on nan with fries. Quick, tasty and filling.
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Delhi Darbar
A popular choice for Indian food, and successful enough to create a mini-franchise, with branches in Mazar-e Sharif and even Tajikistan. The focus is on north Indian cuisine, plus some fiery curries and lots of vegetarian options. The one-dish-fits-all thalis remain a prize attraction, washed down with a cold lager.
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Everest Pizza
There's some argument about the best pizza in Kabul, but this place consistently turns out the goods. Tasty sauce, a good variety of toppings and the all important takeaway/home delivery option.
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Flower Street
Where the souvenir shops of Chicken St end, the grocery stores of Flower St begin, piled high with everything you might need from cornflakes to maple syrup. Interspersed with these there are some lovely bakeries, places selling pirated DVDs, and the flower shops that give the street its name - most likely piling the petals on to highly-decorated wedding cars.
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Flower Street Café
The name is momentarily confusing, as this café is nowhere near Flower St. It's worth finding though, as it does some great sandwiches and burgers served in a flowery garden, with cake for afters. Alternatively they'll deliver your lunch to your door, but that means you'll miss out on the great smoothies and cappuccinos.
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French Bakery
A tiny shop opposite the Kabul Bank, this is a great place for a mid-morning bite, with some heavenly banana cakes and brownies. They're a little dry by the end of the day; we're not sure if this is a product of the genuine 'Frenchised' baking process as advertised.
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Golden Key Seafood
Of the Chinese restaurants, this is our favourite, despite the old adage of never eating seafood in a land-locked country. Flown in from Dubai, the fish and shellfish (and meat dishes) are actually excellent, and come with as many noodle and rice options as you could wish for.
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Haji Baba
Run by a genial Afghan, the food here bridges the gap between Persian and Herati food. The surroundings are brisk and simple, not that the many locals passing through seem to mind. They're here for bowls of thick chicken shorwa (soup) and plates of moist kebabs, king of which is maheecha , a sublime oven-baked leg of lamb. Leave room for dessert.
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Herat
A really great Afghan place which positively bursts at lunchtimes, as half of Kabul appears to eat here. The mantu (steamed meat dumplings) will set you back Afg80 , but save some room for the sticky sweets at the end with your tea.
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Jaisalmer
Another good Indian restaurant, with great and highly spiced tandoori dishes. It's slightly hidden away and not brilliantly signed, but don't despair: they do a home delivery service.
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Khosha
This place was freshly minted when we visited and looked a treat. The rooftop setting gives great views over Kabul, while the interior is decorated with Kuchi textiles. As well as Afghan favourites, there are some good vegetable dishes normally found only in the home, like banjan borani (aubergine with tomatoes and yoghurt), plus a great lamb qorma with chickpeas.
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Kulba Afghan
This restaurant is almost two in one, as it sits on the third floor above the also popular Rose Restaurant. What makes this more of a draw is the live Afghan music from - , and booths with cushions to tuck yourself into. Stuff yourself with the huge Kulba special which has a bit of everything - pulao, kebabs, mantu , chips, qorma (stewed vegetables), plus salad, yoghurt and a soft drink.
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La Cantina
There's a full range of Tex-Mex food on offer here, with great plates of nachos, burritos and bowls of chilli - tick off your choices on the menu sheet and present it to the waiter to order. Dining is al fresco, with the traditional Afghan courtyard garden pressed into service as a half-decent pueblo substitute (hence the dining season is restricted to the warmer months). Alcohol is served.
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Lai Thai
Is there an expat left in Kabul who hasn't eaten here? We doubt it. With wonderful food in a traditional Thai setting, the owner has made a habit of opening in war-torn areas - there are sister outfits in Kosovo and East Timor. Tasty spring rolls and satay.
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Le Bistro
In a pleasant Kabuli house, this French restaurant has its own bakery attached, making the continental breakfast a treat of bread, pastry and croissants. Evening meals are good, even if the servings are a little on the small side. Carpets and paintings festoon the walls, and there are regular art shows and sales on site.
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Popolano
Popolano offered Kabul's first post-Taliban pizza, and is still going strong. The fickle expat dining scene means it hasn't been trendy for several years and it gets a correspondingly decent Afghan crowd, but we still like its strong blend of pizza and pasta, served out in something approaching a bistro.
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Red Hot Sizzlin'
Slightly out of the way, this restaurant is the place to go if you're after a steak, American-style. It's all Tex-Mex here, with juicy T-bones, piles of fries and a cold one to wash it all down.
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Samarqand
This relaxed restaurant was one of the most popular in town when we dropped in, serving a mix of Central Asian food - beautifully flavoured rice and meat options, and international dishes. The regular theme nights liven things up, with Chinese food on Friday, and salsa dancing on Wednesday and Saturday.
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Serena Pastry Shop
All the delicious pastries you could ever want are here, in plush and polished surroundings. If your great aunt ever comes to Kabul, bring her here.
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Shamiana
The Safi Landmark's rooftop restaurant tries its hand at a bit of everything Indian, Chinese and Afghan, plus a dash of Italian and anything else they can think of. It mostly works, and its plush surroundings means that you'll be dining next to some extremely rich Afghans at the next table.






