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Seoul is in the northwest corner of South Korea. The border with North Korea is only about 40km (25mi) from the city centre. The central area is the most important for both sightseeing and accommodation, with Mt Namsan forming the southern perimeter. Tourists and shoppers are well at home in Itaewon, south of Mt Namsan. The Han River winds through the city, splitting it in two. The Gangnam-gu area on the south bank is Seoul's most exclusive neighbourhood, but on the whole, the southern areas have less interest to the traveller than the historic northern neighbourhoods. The World Cup stadium is to the west of the city, in Mapo-gu.
Easily the most maddening thing about Seoul is the system of street addresses: there aren't any. If you've spent time in Japan, you might have some luck understanding the system, but probably have no better chance of actually finding anywhere without a detailed map; even the locals are baffled by the system. Addresses are not given according to consecutive numbers along a road, but as random numbers within an arbitrary block of land. You will need to wander around looking for your destination, as there are virtually no street signs (let alone street names). Most business cards have maps printed on the back.
Getting There
Most major international airlines fly into Incheon International Airport (60km/37mi from Seoul), and the two Korean airlines, Asiana Airlines and Korean Air (KAL), fly both domestic and international routes.
There are no international buses leading to or from Seoul, but there's no shortage of long-distance buses to get you across the country. The main station is the express bus terminal, on the southern side of the Han River.
There are no international trains to Seoul, but South Korea has an extensive rail network operated by Korea National Railroad (KNR). Long-distance share taxis also operate from the station, Incheon ferry terminal, and the express bus terminal.
Getting Around
Seoul's subway system is modern, fast, frequent, clean, safe and cheap, but try to avoid rush hour. Seoul also has a comprehensive and cheap city bus system that operates from around to .
Driving a vehicle is something to avoid in Seoul because of the traffic jams, the lack of street names, directional signs and parking places, and the unpredictability of other road users. Regular taxis are a good deal and are cheaper than the bus or subway for three people who want to make a short trip.
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Disabled Travellers
In the past, Korea did not cater for disabled travellers as Koreans with disabilities tended to stay at home, and there were few disabled foreign tourists. But in Seoul and some other cities this is changing. Most subway stations in Seoul now have lifts, elevators and toilets with wheelchair access and handrails. Tourist attractions, especially government-run ones, offer generous discounts or even free entry for disabled people and a helper.
A useful brochure in Seoul is the Accessible Seoul map, available from the KNTO office in Seoul. More information is available on www.easyaccess.or.kr.
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