Diyarbakır
Opposite the Ulu Cami, this restored 16th-century caravanserai is occupied by carpet shops and jewellers, and is perfect for a leisurely breakfast. Live…
Must-see nightlife in Southeastern Anatolia
Şanlıurfa
Thread your way through the vaulted corridors of the bedesten to reach this restored han (caravanserai) crowded with locals enjoying a cold drink, çay or…
Mardin
If the eclectic interior of bric-a-brac, chirping canaries, antiques and a random fish tank doesn't charm you, the view of the Mesopotamian plains…
Gaziantep
Türk kahvesi (Turkish coffee) so thick you could stand a spoon in it. Coffee has been served here since 1635. Today Tahmis Kahvesi occupies both the…
Mardin
One of our favourite joints in Mardin. This modern cafe, with a stone-and-wood interior offset by art prints and bookcases, is a relaxing place to while…
Southeastern Anatolia
A restored 19th-century mansion with an airy, garden-like courtyard and wooden upper gallery, Hanzade is a fine, relaxed spot to pass an hour or two with…
Şanlıurfa
The southern side of Gölbaşı, surrounding the Ayn-i Zeliha lake, is crammed with shady tea gardens where families and groups of friends linger on the…
Mardin
Join the moustachioed throngs in Mardin's most authentic tea and coffee house. In between blokey rounds of backgammon, cards and okey, the faded amber…
Adana Şalgamacısı – Gürbüz Usta
Gaziantep
Get your vitamin C fix here. The menu offers plenty of freshly squeezed juices and the 'atom' (combining milk, honey, banana, hazelnuts and pistachios)…
Gaziantep
This restored han (caravanserai), just steps from the castle, has been turned into one of Gaziantep's swankiest bar-restaurants. After a long hot…
Gaziantep
A student crowd gathers in this historic Armenian mansion, with a leafy courtyard, in an alleyway off Atatürk Bulvarı that holds plenty of other cafes…
Van
This multi-floored bar, cafe and restaurant is one of Van's most popular venues for a beer or two, with regular live music on weekend evenings. The…
Mardin
Part cafe, part bookshop and part performance space with occasional live Kurdish music. Also beer, wine and a balcony looking out over Mardin's bustling…
Van
Get to know Van's student population over frosty glasses of Efes beer at this friendly bar. There's often live music on Friday nights after 9pm.
Mardin
This simple tea garden has phenomenal views over Old Mardin and the Plains of Mesopotamia.
Van
Head to the North Shield at the Hotel Tamara for a familiar English-pub-type ambience.
Gaziantep
Lounge back on the cushions, sip çay and relax with a nargile (water pipe; ₺30) after exploring the bazaar alleys in this restored han (caravanserai). On…
Southeastern Anatolia
This squeaky-boarded, 19th-century Malatya mansion is packed with memorabilia. Soak up the ambience in either of two spacious, airy main rooms (note that…
Mardin
Either retire to the expansive terrace for views, or grab an indoor table and a cold beer and wait for the live music to kick off – from Wednesday to…
Şanlıurfa
Recharge at this juice bar on the edge of the bazaar. We find the zingy greyfurt suyu (grapefruit juice) especially refreshing.
Şanlıurfa
This pub and beer garden is a haven from the Anatolian heat. It's too blokey for single female travellers, but we've seen local couples together here.
Southeastern Anatolia
This nargile (water pipe) cafe is a popular spot with Malatya's under-30 set after dark.
Diyarbakır
Let the hard-to-miss signage guide you through Diyarbakır's compelling labyrinth to this bohemian courtyard house with well-priced snacks and meze,…
Diyarbakır
The expansive courtyard is a great place to unwind over a cup of tea and take in the atmosphere. It's also licensed if you feel like a cold beer.
