Restaurants in Aegean Coast
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Ejder Restaurant
Run by a welcoming husband-and-wife team (Mehmet does the meat, his wife the veg), this popular restaurant is a firm favourite with travellers for its delicious dishes (try chicken şiş or the sizzling Anatolian meat platter) and atmospheric setting under the arches of the Roman Aqueduct. While waiting for your meal, ask to see the 25 tomes of comments left by diners – everyone leaves a note, their signature and a small memento (a metro ticket from their hometown, a foreign coin etc – we even found a parking ticket and human hair!). Careful perusers will find an autograph from the late Steve Irwin.
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Kebab House Mehmet & Alibaba
Covered in testimonials from contented customers, this friendly and informal joint dishes out tasty Turkish fare. The smiley owners are eager to please and are happy to educate the uninitiated palate with a variety of local treats such as Adana kebap. Complimentary coffee and yoghurt sides are the norm.
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Nazik Ana
Hidden away down a narrow alley but definitely worth hunting out, this simple but atmospheric place is a huge hit locally, particularly with the police officers from next door. With its point-and-pick counter, it's great for sampling different Turkish dishes. Prices are kept so cheap that there's no buyer's remorse – if you don't like something just grab a new plate! It lies off Cevat Şakir Caddesi.
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St John's Café
Welcoming owners and top-notch coffee are the big draws at the welcoming li'l cafe. Down your cuppa with a special künefe dessert from Antioch or taste-test the zesty homemade hummus.
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Star Restaurant
This Norwegian-Turkish-owned restaurant offers cosmopolitan surprises such as Hawaiian pizza and pasta carbonara alongside the gamut of steaks and lahmacun (Arabic-style pizza). The tables on the leafy cobbled square next to the church are perfect for whiling away an afternoon.
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Avlu
Hidden in the old town amid a maze of streets, this lokanta is well worth seeking out. It offers first-class home cooking in a clean and cheerful environment at unbeatable prices. A long-standing local fave, in recent times it's been discovered by the more daring cruise-ship tourists too; if you don't want to queue at lunchtime, come either earlier or later.
There's a great pick-and-point counter for those unsure what to order. It's a good choice for veggies too, as well as for sampling delectable Turkish puds.
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Asansör
Housed at the top of an early 20th-century elevator, the location is İzmir's best, loved by both readers and local couples. In addition to the stunning panoramic views, it makes a cool refuge in summer, well away from the main tourist trail. A range of meat dishes is joined by pastas and salads; if you can't afford them, try the smaller cafe opposite (sandwiches TL5 to TL8.50, open same hours) or come for a beer (TL6). It's about 2km from the town centre.
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1-A Grand Restaurant
Set in a square just off Bar St, this lovely place is a whole world away from it. Tables are set in a garden-courtyard under old fig and orange trees and the place is so mellow and laid-back that even the dogs are asleep, curled up on the benches. There's a daily happy hour from 22:00 to 23:00. The food (both European and Turkish) has a good reputation and it claims to do the best steaks in town. There's also free internet access to customers.
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Kocadon Restaurant
Set back from Neyzen Tevfik Caddesi in the cobbled courtyard of a very attractive 200-year-old stone house, is this highly civilised and atmospheric place that specialises in old Ottoman cuisine. The excellent three-course set menu (for lunch or dinner), which includes an open buffet of 12 meze and a fish dish, is fab for a splurge. The à la carte menu is select and enticing. This claims to be Bodrum's best; it may well be.
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Amazon
With its classical music and stools around a bar, the brand-new Amazon looks more wine-bar than restaurant, but the İzmiri chef has a great reputation and serves good international dishes using fresh local ingredients. The set lunch is great value. The paintings hung on the walls are by young local artists and are for sale. Outside there are a few tables with distant views of the Artemis temple.
reviewed
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Yağhane
Housed in an old olive mill built in 1894, this is an attractive and atmospheric place, with the walls hung with the works of local artists. The menu, which specialises in old Ottoman and Mediterranean dishes, is select and imaginative. Try the delicious regional speciality et çökertme - sliced beef with garlic yogurt, grated potatoes and butter. The wine list is also impressive.
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Simorg Café
With its Orientalist interior (complete with carpets, old maps and portraits of sultans and their harems), this café makes a great place to recline and rest after a run around the bazaar. The 'coffee made in cup' is a speciality of the area as is the mantı (Turkish ravioli). There's live Turkish music on Wednesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday from 19:00 to 21:30.
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Tarlakusu Gurmeko
Run by a clued-up couple from İzmir, this cafe sells a range of teas and coffees, including good cappuccino (TL4.50). If you enjoy your cup, you can buy a bag of beans or leaves from the shop. Nibbles include cookies, brownies, soup, salads, cheese plates and börek (TL3.50).
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Sağlam Restaurant
This Bergama favourite has moved out of town to the Opet garage by the otogar. Despite the proximity of the petrol pumps, it has a pleasant dining environment and an unlimited buffet. Beer, meze, pide and kebabs are also offered.
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Tranca
Jutting out into the bay, the family-run Tranca probably boasts about the best views of anywhere. Its specialities are tuzda balik (fish baked in salt) and testi kebabı (casserole served in a clay pot that's broken at your table), both cost around €25 to around €30 with a minimum of two people. Reserve a seafront table if you can.
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Avşar Büfe
Famous throughout Turkey is Ayvalık tost (Ayvalık 'toast') and this is the place to get it. Traditionally they're filled with sucuk (Turkish sausage), cheese, tomato, ketchup and mayonaise, but you can opt just for one or two ingredients if you prefer! Though not exactly haute cuisine, they're delicious if you're hungry enough.
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Cafe Nostalji
Lying 20m north of the post office, this gem of a place lies hidden down a side street off Bankalar Caddesi. With walls decorated with musical instruments and old records, it has a great atmosphere particularly at night. There's live Turkish music on Thursdays and Saturdays from 21:00 to midnight (to 02:00 in high season). Alcohol is not served.
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Kırmızı
Serving Mediterranean food made from the freshest local ingredients, the Kırmızı is a small but characterful place spread over three floors. The walls are used to exhibit the works of local artists, and Duygu, the charming owner, will accord you a warm welcome. The three-course fixed lunch is astonishing value.
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Café Carpouza
Housed in the 133-year-old former railway workers' lodging in the middle of a large green square, this is a cool, tranquil and relaxing place for breakfast, a beer or a cup of coffee, either on the veranda or inside the atmospheric building. Run by the municipality, prices are kept low; this place offers the best value in town.
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Liman Köftecisi
Famous nationally, the trendy Liman has a lovely position on the seafront, yet serves delicious food at very decent prices. Köfte (grilled meatballs) are the speciality. Of the six types, try the Liman köfte - served with yoghurt, tomato sauce and butter. The service is also exemplary.
reviewed
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Özsüt
Also new, this well-known İzmiri chain has the usual delicious selection of traditional Turkish puds served up in smart surrounds, as well as great coffee and ice cream. Try the wonderful aşure (Noah's pudding) or tavuk göğsü kazandibi (burnt chicken breast pudding!).
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Dört Mevsim Et Lokantası
Famous as far afield as Ankara and İstanbul, this award-winning lokanta serves excellent food at reasonable prices. From the open ocakbaşı (grill), try the delicious chargrilled-melted cheese, stuffed aubergine kebab or köfte with chilli (the house specialities).
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Deniz Restaurant
İzmir's premier fish restaurant is still going strong, offering dishes such as fish paella as well as the odd kebap, but it's expensive even by fish eateries' standards. Try the house speciality, tuzda balık (fish baked in a block of salt that's broken at your table; suitable for three or four people). Expect your fellow diners to be in their best party frocks.
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Hatipoğlu Pastaneleri
With a great selection of traditional Turkish puds, pastries and cakes, this friendly patisserie makes a terrific breakfast or tea stop. Try the Ayvalık speciality, lok (sponge oozing honey; TL3), and go on, add a scoop of dondurma (ice cream).
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Old House Restaurant & Bar
With tables set in little courtyard amid grapefruit and pomegranate trees, and decorated with lanterns, bird cages and wicker chairs, this is a pretty, cool and intimate place that does tasty Turkish dishes. Try the appetising speciality 'Old House Kebap' served sizzling on a platter
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