Things to do in Taiwan
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Cifadahan Cafe
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Cijin Island
This thin island, almost a sandbar really, acts as a buffer to the harbour and extends down the city coastline. It's a popular day trip from the mainland, with its frenetic seafood street (Hǎichǎn Jiē), beach, lighthouse and biking routes being the main attractions. The oldest temple in the Kaohsiung area is Cijin's Matsu Temple (天后宮; Tiānhoù Gōng), the origins of which go back to the late 17th century when the area was the first commercial centre in Kaohsiung. Much of the excellent stone relief and pillar carvings go back to the 18th century.
As on the mainland, you can rent bikes on Cijin or take your bike over on the ferry (NT$15, 10 minutes), which runs…
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Cijin Island Lighthouse
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Ciji Temple
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Ciji Temple Museum
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City God Temple
First built in 1748, and masterfully restored in 1924, this Hsinchu landmark (城隍廟 | Chénghuáng Miào) has the highest rank of all the city god temples in Taiwan. A sombre place (as you walk in, check out the figure holding an implement of torture), the temple is also a splendid example of the fine work local artisans were capable of in the early 20th century. Check out the shallow but vivid plafond, and the wealth of carved wooden brackets and beams. Most are covered in gold foil and if you take note you can find dragons, phoenixes and melons, as well as panels of birds and flowers (auspicious symbols when placed together). For an example of vivid jiǎnniàn…
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Classical Chinese Puppet Art Center
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Cloud Leopard Hiking Association
Bunun cooperative focusing on portering and guiding services. Japanese and Chinese language services.
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Cochin Ceramic Museum
An excellent little museum dedicated to cochin (jiāo zhǐ táo) a low-fired, brightly coloured glaze style of ceramic traditionally used for temple decoration. You've probably seen cheap work in this style in tourist shops around the island but much of the work here is outstanding. Look for the set of figurines performing what look like different opera gestures: you'd swear they had muscles and bone under their robes, so realistic is the motion captured by the artist.
Cochin artists have been working in the Chiayi area since the Qing dynasty and have won praise from as far afield as Japan and France. Yeh Wang (1826–91) is widely regarded as a founder of the cochin…
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Confucius Temple
This 1726 beauty both ranks as one of the oldest Confucian temples in Taiwan and as a first-class historical relic. There's an inscribed plaque in the ancestral hall donated by the Qing dynasty emperor Chien Long. Don't miss this temple if you are in Changhua.
Every year on Confucius' birthday (28 September) there is a colourful dawn ceremony.
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Country Mother
Echoing its name nicely, Country Mother serves some of the best Western breakfasts and sandwiches in Taiwan in a cosy venue up from the harbour. Best of all, it's open very early for cyclists looking to fill up on something wholesome and hearty before the day's ride. Country Mother is just up from Dou Sang; head left when the road splits.
reviewed
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County Road
The County Rd (北42) follows the contours of the Beishi River (the source of Taipei's drinking water) from a high perch, affording outstanding views of this natural landscape. A beautiful ride is to follow the above route from Muzha to Pinglin, connect to the 北42, and then ride all the way to where it connects with Provincial Hwy 2丙, heading towards Fulong Beach. This is a full-day outing for most cyclists. At the end, Fulong Beach, you can ship your bike back to Taipei on a train or bus.
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Da'an Park
This is Taipei's central park, where the city comes to play. And play it does, from kiddies rollerblading and playing tag to teens playing basketball and ultimate frisbee to old men whomping each other in xiàngqí (Chinese chess). The park is a great place to hang out on sunny afternoons; take off your shoes and walk barefoot on the foot-massage path or just stop and smell the flowers. In the early mornings, you'll see folks practising taichi. Perhaps more incongruous for visitors expecting Asian-themed pursuits are the ad hoc ballroom-dancing classes that often occur on cool summer evenings. Find a partner and join in. On big holidays, especially Christmas, New Year and…
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Dance Cafe
Located in a historic wooden house that once housed a dance troupe (hence the name), this lovely, low-slung cafe serves good coffee, sandwiches, snacks and a wide variety of teas and other beverages in a quiet setting just off the main drag.
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Darts One
Darts One gets its name from its five dartboards (NT$25 per game), but you don't need to be a darts fan to enjoy this chic Japanese-feeling bar. The house special, mojitos (NT$260), should help your aim.
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Dayeh Takashimaya
Braving competition from nearby (and newer) Tianmu Sogo, Takashimaya is still the grand dame of Tianmu's department store scene. Just between us, its food court is still tops!
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Di-re Valley
Throughout the Japanese occupation this geothermal valley was considered one of the country's great scenic wonders and a visit by the Japanese crown prince sealed Beitou's reputation as the hot-spring destination of Taiwan. A walk through the valley's 3500 sq metres of bubbling waters and sulphurous gases leaves no question as to the origins of its name. These pools are the source of many of the hot springs used by the resorts in town, but don't try to soak in any of them here. In some spots they reach 90°C, and we'd prefer not to have to use your tragic death by scalding as a warning for future travellers.
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Dog Pig Art Cafe
This is a long-running cafe and alternative art space at the heart of the scene in Kaohsiung. Documentary movies and alternative theatre are shown on the 3rd floor on weekends. As owner Leo Liu says, 'We show things that are interesting to us, not necessarily what is commercially successful'.
The cafe serves good curries and has a decent foreign-beer selection.
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Donggua Divine Tree Trail
This popular trail (冬瓜山神木; Dōngguā- shān Shénmù) begins at the campground and runs up a forested hill to a rather large and old tree. It's about 1½ hours one way.
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Dou Sang
You have to pronounce the name of this restaurant in Taiwanese, if you want to get it right. It's the least you can do, since it does such a good job with its dishes. Set in an old Japanese-era wood house, and serving ultra- orthodox Taiwanese dishes, Dou Sang is where locals take their visiting friends. Your stomach will love you afterwards, even if your arteries cry out in protest. No English menu.
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Epicurean Cafe
Like the Mermaid's, the food here won't turn your head, but the hillside perch of this cafe-restaurant-bar is a great location for sipping a coffee or beer while you enjoy the views of Lanyu's coral coastline. If there are customers the cafe will stay open late, in effect turning into a late-evening bar.
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Ershawan Fort
Also known as Haiman Tienxian, this first-class historical relic was once used to defend Taiwan during the First Opium War. Its imposing main gate and five cannons, still tucked into their battery emplacements, are a dramatic sight. To get here, take city bus 101 or 103 to Haimen Tianxian and walk up the footpath.
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