Restaurants in Belgrade
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A
?
The shortest restaurant name in town came about because of a dispute between a long-past owner and the abstemious clergy of the Orthodox cathedral opposite, who objected to its then name, Cathedral Tavern. The clergy threatened action so the landlord changed the signboard to a '?' signalling his perplexity as to what the fuss was about. Inside is an original Balkans tavern that could be a set for a noir film.
Chiaroscuro light from panelled windows creeps in to pick up cigarette smoke and dust specks dancing through the sunbeams. Furniture and foot-polished floorboards glow with a patina of antiquity, diners sit at low wooden tables on equally low half-moon chairs while …
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B
Polet Restaurant
Fat shiny brass ship-railings surrounding the upper mezzanine floor, slatted shutters over portholes and a Mediterranean décor of blues and whites provide just the right ambience for this hideaway seafood restaurant. Enter from the street through the blue frontage; don't linger at the bar but descend 'below decks'. The menu ranges from the tasty fish soup to scampi à la Parisienne. The calamari is chargrilled to perfection, misted with lemon, and succulent.
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C
Biblioteka
We've always felt that a library and a drinking den were a natural combination of pleasures. Biblioteka provides both. Books and magazines are racked up for reading, while waiters in cheeky red-banded bowlers, green checked shirts and large skirt aprons flit around to help with your drink and food requests. Many come here to meet friends, and the unobtrusive background music allows for quiet conversation or reading. Breakfasts are served until 13:00.
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D
Šešir Moj
An intimate little restaurant that has alcoves decorated with an art gallery of oils and pastels. A place for romantics, especially when members of a Roma band swirl in, playing their hauntingly passionate music. Go for the punjena belavešanica, which is a pork fillet stuffed with kajmak. Finish with Serbian coffee and a piece of orasnica (walnut cake) if you've any room left.
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E
Priroda
Give this restaurant owner a medal for battling against adversity. Why? Priroda perseveres as a superb vegetarian restaurant in a land of carnivores. Discover the delicate flavours, oozing from vegetables and pulses, that are absent in traditional Serbian cuisine. Try the Vivaldi Plate for its smoked tofu, sea vegetables and cereals, and finish with the macrobiotic cake - a stunner.
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F
Jevrem
Set in a lovingly restored old Dorćol house, Jevrem is furnished as if time stopped in the 1920s, and the old photographs of Belgrade on the sunflower-yellow walls confirm this. The food is traditional and simple, and for afters try the spiced hot brandy with baklava and Serbian coffee.
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G
Trattoria Košava
This Mediterranean-style Italian restaurant is light and airy with a 'cheer you up on a bad day' pastel décor. Options include the downstairs café for a blow-in pizza snack, coffee and a give-me-more cherry strudel, or the restaurant upstairs for some serious eating.
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Kiosks and Cafés
Kiosks and cafés offering burek, ćevapčići, pastries and some inventive pizza are scattered everywhere. Many, like those around Trg Republike and the bus and train stations, are open 24 hours.
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H
Pekara Centar Pizza
With its ever-open doors, Pekara has a bright and cheery interior and trays of freshly made pizzas that beckon. There are stand-up tables if you want to stay and eat. You may need more than one slice.
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