The biggest tank battle of WWII took place near Kursk in July and August of 1943. Afterwards, the ruined regional city and railway junction was rebuilt along solid Soviet lines, with only a handful of pre-20th-century structures to signify its long history, going back to at least the 11th century.
Kursk’s centre is divided by ul Lenina, with Krasnaya pl at the southern end along with the giant domed Holy Sign Cathedral. Ul Dzerzhinskogo heads quite steeply downhill from the western side of Krasnaya pl to a valley, where you’ll find the busy central market and the permanent circus building. Dom Knigi sells city maps.