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Introducing La Parguera

La Parguera is a lazy, lovable seaside town, a somewhat disorderly magnet for vacationing Puerto Ricans and US expats who spend most of the morning in bed, most of the day on the water, and most of the weekend popping open cans of Medalla. During the day, the streets empty as fishermen and divers navigate the maze of mangrove canals to the open water to catch snapper and shark or dive the 40ft Wall.

During the long summer months between Easter and September, La Parguera parties hard despite its diminutive population. The bars, all disheveled and covered in beer banners, blast salsa and reggaetón, and the streets fill with students and travelers. Little mobs of friends traverse the crooked, disorderly sidewalks arm in arm with a wobble in their step.

At the busy waterfront, boats shuttle tourists to the glowing waters of the town’s big draw – Bahía de Fosforescente – simultaneously diminishing its glow with the pollution from their motors.

The ramshackle mix of new and old buildings has a chaotic charm, from the houses on stilts over the water to vacation condo developments that have arisen on upland fields.

Even though many of the streets don’t have signs, it doesn’t take long to get oriented; Rte 304 brings you into town and takes a sharp bend at the water to become the main drag. It’s lined with shops, trinket galleries, bars and cafeterias.