Restaurants in Northern Highlands
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A
El Batán
One of the town’s best places to eat, this is a mix of gallery-restaurant, peña (bar or club featuring live folkloric music) and cultural center, and serves varied Peruvian and international dishes with has a decent wine list. The menú (set meal) is an excellent deal. On Friday and Saturday nights, El Batán has live shows of local music, anything from folk songs to traditional Andean music to Afro-Peruvian dance rhythms. There is a full bar and an upstairs art gallery.
reviewed
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Salas
This barn of a restaurant on the Plaza de Armas has been a local favorite since 1947 – and some of the diners look like they have been patronizing the joint since the very beginning. Knowledgeable elderly staff in white suits will help you navigate the extensive menu, which lists local specialties such as goat, tamales (corn dough stuffed with meat, beans or chilis) and even sesos (cow brains). More-standard plates are also available.
reviewed
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La Patarashca
Regional Amazon cuisine is on tap in Patarashca’s casual 2nd-floor dining room. With street views and a tropical ambience, it’s a popular weekend place to see and be seen. Don’t miss the paiche (a freshwater fish) and salad made of chonta, thin strips of a local palm plant doused in vinaigrette, or the namesake patarashcas, heaping platters of giant shrimp or fish grilled with garlic and cilantro.
reviewed
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Heladería Holanda
Don’t miss the tiny entrance on the town’s Plaza de Armas; it opens into a large, bright cafe selling what might be the best ice cream in northern Peru. The cafe has about 20 changing flavors, including Italian classics like stracciatella (vanilla with chocolate chips) and others made with local and seasonal fruit. Excellent espressos, cappuccinos with giant foam and homemade pies round out the menu.
reviewed
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La Collpa
You can practically taste the jungle air at this stilt restaurant, with a bamboo balcony over a river and a patch of rainforest. The menu offers up everything imaginable, from ceviche (raw seafood marinated in lime juice) to typical jungle food to grills to Chinese food to pastas. It’s best to come for lunch to appreciate the views, though candlelit dinners are also a treat.
reviewed
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Café d’ Mundo
A funky establishment illuminated nightly by moody candlelight, this hip restaurant and bar has outdoor seating and snug indoor lounges. Good pizzas, pastas and other tidbits adorn a small menu and a full bar will help you pass the rest of the evening away comfortably. The continually roaring mototaxis tend to detract from the mood a little, however.
reviewed
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Marlissa
Specializing in parrilladas (meats cooked on an open flame), Marlissa’s grill experts will deliver a sizzling platter of beef, chicken and sausage to your table. They also specialized in cuy (guinea pig) cooked in several ways – with maní (peanut) sauce is one local specialty – and host a disco night on the weekends.
reviewed
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Carpa Bruja
Cajamarca's modern antidote to old-world colonial style, this slick, modern and bright affair serves up international dishes, gourmet sandwiches (on whole-wheat ciabatta!), lots of salads and several vegetarian choices. There's a happy hour in the evening, and for dessert you'll have to go a long way to beat their specialty cheesecake.
reviewed
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Don Paco
Tucked away near the plaza, Don Paco has a big following among both residents and expats. There’s something for everyone here, including typical breakfasts and great renditions of Peruvian favorites, as well as a whole bunch of veggie options. The lentil burgers and quinoa (an Andean grain) salad are particularly good.
reviewed
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El Rincón Sureño
One of the best grills in town, this swish-looking establishment has intimate wood-lined rooms as well as a bustling outdoor seating area. The grilled meats here are delicious and El Rincón Sureño boasts what must be one of the largest wine collections in all of South America.
reviewed
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Panificadora San José
This bakery features a few tables where you can enjoy a tamal, humita (mashed corn dumpling filled with spiced beef, vegetables and potatoes) or sandwich with coffee for breakfast, and snacks and desserts all day. Be sure to try their rich hot chocolate (S2).
reviewed
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Nuevo Chifa Canton
A step up from the usual Chinese restaurants that abound in Peru, the menu here is filled with hundreds of options great for everyone, from vegetarians to the most daring meat eaters. The chef hails from Canton and boasts more than 15 years of cooking experience.
reviewed
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Mr Grill
It only takes a step into this low-key dining room to be seduced by the smell of roast chicken and choice cuts of meat. A table for five could easily get stuffed on their parrillada (selection of grilled meats) for S75.
reviewed
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Querubino
Modern and stylish, warm and busy, and generally full of tourist groups, this place has a ponderous menu of Peruvian and international dishes and is renowned for its great pastas. It also has a solid wine selection.
reviewed
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New York Pizza
OK, it’s not real New York pizza, but then again nothing else is. They still make a great pie though, as the yummy smells wafting down the street will verify. They get double bonus points for their delivery service.
reviewed
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El Brassero
Carnivores congregate at this great grill. Choose your cut; pork ribs are the specialty, funky acid-jazz tunes are a bonus. The owners love to chat – they only close when the coals die down and people leave.
reviewed
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Real Grill
An institution right on the Plaza de Armas, this place has (noisy) outdoor tables and serves pastas, Chinese meals, local dishes, meat, seafood, burgers and so on. The food is middle of the road.
reviewed
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Hotel Plaza
It’s ambience galore at this plaza-view restaurant, though unfortunately it only has a few tables by the window. Recommended for its set lunches; the service can be slow, though.
reviewed
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Maripizza
This pizzeria dedicates itself to homemade pasta and pies, served in a casual dining room that is popular with locals as well as gringos.
reviewed
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Dulcería Santa Elena
The grouchy old man here serves the town’s best pastries and cookies; if he likes you, though, he might throw something in for free.
reviewed
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Café Café
A popular, flashy and bright little place under Hotel Puma Urco doing simple sandwiches (S2 to S6), sweet cakes and hot beverages.
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Cascanuez Café Bar
This cafe sells snacks and meals but people flock here for the good choice of fine desserts and respectable coffee.
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Sanguchon.com
This popular hamburger and sandwich joint with an excellent bar often remains rowdy till the wee hours.
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Chifa Tai Pai
Modern and shiny, this chifa serves up good Chinese fare to eager locals and families.
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Chacha
This is an old standby on the plaza – service is slooooow, but the meals are reliable.
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