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Introducing Río San Juan
Aztec traders used this route as early as the 1200s to ship goods between the oceans, but it was not until 1521, when Cacique Nicarao told the conquistadors that Cocibolca had a 'drain' to the Atlantic, that Spaniard Diego de Machuca ran the rapids all the way to the sea. This is still the dream trip, made legend by British pirates and history by Mark Twain, down the marvelous, mysterious Río San Juan.
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There are not many places like this left in the world, you know. And rich men have been plotting to broaden this river, deepen it, straighten it into something more suitable for their mercantile whims, for almost 500 years. The thundering volcanoes and murmuring rapids may not thwart them forever.
The towns of Boca de Sábalos and El Castillo, as well as the beautiful jungle resorts strung between them, have easy access, with public boats daily. But to go into the vine-hung wilderness of jaguars and macaws, through the Indio-Maíz to the end of the river, takes commitment.
Last updated: Oct 1, 2008
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