Sights in Morocco
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Musée Marocain
This ethnographic museum off Calle Garnata is worth a visit, if only for a peek inside the bastion in the town wall, where it is housed. Cannons are still in place in the garden, and the terrace is sometimes open, offering incredible views of the Rif Mountains. Unfortunately, the museum is frequently closed outside the summer months.
The museum contains the requisite collection of traditional clothing, musical instruments, antique jewellery, carpets, arms and household implements. Keep an eye out for the gold embroidered Jewish wedding robes with gold thread, and the highly elaborate iron doorknockers and keyhole covers. All of the captions are in French and Arabic.
To…
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Raissouli's Palace
This building in Asilah still stands as a testament to the sumptuous life that scoundrel Moulay Ahmed ben Mohammed er-Raissouli (or Raisuni) led at the height of his power. He was a feared bandit, kidnapper and general troublemaker who went from petty crime to murder. The Spaniards eventually forced Er-Raissouli to flee Asilah after WWI, but he continued to wreak havoc in the Rif hinterland until 1925, when the Rif rebel Abd al-Krim arrested him and accused him of being too closely linked with the Spanish.
The building includes a main reception room with a glass-fronted terrace overlooking the sea, from where Er-Raissouli forced convicted murderers to jump to their deaths…
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Djemaa el-Fna
Think of it as live-action channel-surfing: everywhere you look in the Djemaa el-Fna, Marrakesh’s main square and open-air theatre, you’ll discover drama already in progress. Snake-charmers frantically blast oboes to calm cobras hissing at careening Vespas; water-sellers in fringed hats clang brass cups together, hoping to drive people to drink. On the upper balcony of a café, star-crossed young lovers furtively plot their next meeting, while downstairs, not-so-incognito Hollywood celebrities slurp fresh-squeezed orange juice in sunglasses and studio-logo baseball caps. But Gnaoua musicians inevitably steal the show, working groovy rhythms that get fez tassels spinning…
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Musée de la Fondation Lorin
Housed in a former synagogue, the Musée de la Fondation Lorin is a gem of a place if you're interested in Tangier's 20th-century history. A large peaceful room houses an engaging collection of photographs, newspaper cuttings and posters of Tangier from 1890 to the 1960s.The Moroccan and foreign great and good are all well represented, from Mohammed V and Winston Churchill to Caid McLean, Emily Keane and the artist James McBeay. There are some fascinating street scenes, and an early brochure from the El Minzah Hotel, advertising its tennis courts and boar hunting.
The foundation also holds exhibitions and classes for disadvantaged children from the area. You can see a…
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Mosque
One of the two great mosques of Fez, this started life as a relatively modest structure in the 9th century, but became the congregational mosque of the quarter in the 10th century. Its minaret, a gift from the caliph of Córdoba, dates from 956 and is very similar to that of its sister mosque, the Kairaouine. The mosque was totally rebuilt by the Almohads between 1203 and 1207 and the magnificent monumental door on the northern façade dates from this time.
Designed and built by artisans from the Nasrid kingdom of Granada, the triple-entry wooden door features colourful zellij (mosaic tilework), ornate decorative plasterwork and a huge cornice of carved cedarwood. Though…
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beaches
The beaches of Tangier are decent for a seaside stroll or an afternoon aperitif, but not for swimming or surfing. The sand itself is clean enough for a city beach and still manages to attract beachcombers, football-playing kids and the odd courting couple. A stroll in the sea breeze is a good way to clear the air if Tangier's hustlers have been over-attentive. Football matches take place here at weekends and in the evening and the beach bars strung along the sand can be fun.
Besides bars, these places also have changing cabins, showers and deckchairs. The much-reduced European gay population still frequents certain bars; women will feel extremely exposed sunning…
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Koutoubia Minaret
When the present mosque and its iconic Moorish minaret were finished by Almohad Sultan Yacoub el-Mansour in the 12th century, 100 booksellers were clustered around its base - hence the name Koutoubia, meaning 'booksellers'. In the recently refurbished gardens outside the mosque, you might still notice a recent excavation that confirmed a longstanding Marrakshi legend.
The pious Almohads were apparently distressed to discover that their lax Almoravid predecessors had built a mosque that wasn't properly aligned with Mecca, and razed the place to build another. Atop the minaret are three golden balls made of copper. The originals were reputedly real gold donated by the…
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Ancienne Medina
Casablanca's modest medina gives an idea of just how small the city was before the French embarked on their massive building programme. Even though it's the oldest part of the city, most of the buildings date from the 19th century and it lacks the medieval character of other city medinas.
Enter the medina from the northeast corner of the Pl des Nations Unies near the restored clock tower. The narrow lanes to the east are piled high with cheap shoes, high-sheen synthetic underwear and household goods, while the rest of the medina remains largely residential. On the north side of the medina, facing the port, you'll see the last remains of Casablanca's 18th-century…
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Beaches
The affluent suburb of Aïn Diab runs along the Atlantic beachfront west of the centre and is home to the happening Blvd de la Corniche. Lined with beach clubs, upmarket hotels, restaurants, bars and clubs it is the entertainment hub of Casablanca and the place for young, chic professionals to see and be seen.
However, the promenade packed with walkers and joggers is really a potholed pavement and in between the busy beach clubs, the view is spoiled by abandoned pleasure grounds and concrete swimming pools filled with construction rubbish. The beach is still extremely popular though, and the easiest way to find an empty strip of sand is to visit one of the beach clubs.…
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Fondouk Americain
This animal hospital was established in 1927 at the instigation of Amy Bend Bishop, an American traveller who was appalled at the poor condition of the many working animals in the medina. A team headed by Canadian veterinarian Denis Frappier treats the city's animals free of charge, courtesy of funding from The Massachusetts Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals.
In a country where many humans cannot easily access medical care, veterinary care is often viewed as a luxury, so the work of charities such as this one is extremely important, particularly as many locals rely on the their animals to transport goods, carry water and help with the harvesting of crops.…
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Casa de Los Dragones
With its green triumphal arch (inscribed ‘a monument to coexistence’) and fountain, the Plaza de Los Reyes, borders the twin-towered yellow Iglesia deSan Francisco.But the real treasure lies across the street: the Casa de los Dragones a fantastic dream that has entered the real world. Recently restored to perfection, this former home is an extraordinary example of eclectic architecture, with Moorish arches, polished brick facades, Mansard roofs, fabulous balconies, and the pièce de résistance, four enormous dark dragons springing from the roof. The intricate anagram of the Cerni Gonzalez Brothers, the builders, is emblazoned on the corner. Tip your hat.
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Kasbah
The ruined old Kasbah, on a hill 7km to the northwest of the town, commands good views over the port. It was built in 1540 by the Saadian Sultan Mohammed ech-Cheikh, and restored and regarrisoned in 1752 by the Alawite Sultan Moulay Abdallah, who was responsible for the demise of Agadir as a trade depot. Abandoned to the inhabitants of Agadir, the garrison provided housing for nearly 300 people, and traces of these dwellings can still be made out.
The grassy area below the kasbah, Ancienne Talborjt, covers the remains of Agadir's medina and constitutes a mass grave for all those who died in the 1960 earthquake. The walk up to the kasbah is long and hot - get a taxi up and…
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Île de Mogador
Just off the coast to the southwest is the Île de Mogador, which has some interesting structures. It's actually two islands and several tiny islets - also known as the famed Îles Purpuraires (Purple Isles) of antiquity. The uninhabited islands are a sanctuary for Eleanora's falcons, which can also be easily seen through binoculars from Essaouira beach.
It is possible to arrange a private boat trip to the islands outside the breeding season, but you need to obtain a permit (free) from the port office; with that in hand, head for the small fishing boats to negotiate the trip out there. If you want to stay a few hours, fix a time for the boat to come and pick you up.
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Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts & Crafts
Opened in 1998, this museum is in a wonderfully restored funduq – a caravanserai for travelling merchants who stored and sold their goods below and took lodgings on the floors above. Centred on a courtyard, the rooms are given over to displays of traditional artefacts from craftsmen’s tools, chunky prayer beads and Berber locks, chests and musical instruments (compare the traditional wedding furniture with the modern glitzy chairs outside in Place an-Nejjarine). Everything is beautifully presented, although the stunning building gives the exhibits a run for their money. The rooftop café has great views over the medina. Photography is forbidden.
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Kairaouine Mosque & University
The largest mosque in Africa, the Kairaouine claims to be the oldest university in the world. A wide variety of subjects was taught here, which is why Fez became such a centre of learning, culture and religious tolerance. The mosque is open to Muslims only.
The complex has grown since its founding in 859 and has many beautiful elements such as the pavilions, mihrab and decorative plasterwork, cedarwood and zellij reminiscent of the Alhambra in Spain. It has a 10th-century square minaret with cupola. The mosque was expanded to its current size under the Almoravids in the 12th century. Surrounding it are several medersas.
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Museo de la Legión
This intriguing museum is dedicated to and run by the Spanish Legion, an army unit set up in 1920 that played a pivotal role in Franco’s republican army. Loaded to the gills with memorabilia, weaponry and uniforms, not to mention glory, pomp and circumstance, it is a fascinating glimpse into the military culture that shaped the north, from the imperious statue of Franco, to the explanation of how the legion’s intrepid founder, Millan Astray, lost his right eye, to the history of the legion in cinema. They even check your passport at the door. Alternatively, you can enlist at http://lalegion.es. There are guided tours in English.
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Casablanca's Neighbourhoods
Casablanca is Morocco's commercial hub and is more interested in big international business than the tourist dollar. For the traveller it can be a pretty workaday place to visit and for its size has a dearth of traditional tourist attractions. Apart from the incredible Hassan II Mosque, the city's main appeal is in strolling around its neighbourhoods: the Art Deco style of the city centre, the gentrified market district of the Quartier Habous and the beachfront views of the Corniche.
You'll appreciate Casablanca more if you've seen other parts of Morocco first and can compare its cosmopolitan vibe to life in the rest of the country.
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St Agatha’s Crypt & Catacombs
St Agatha’s Crypt & Catacombs are interesting as they contain a series of remarkable frescoes dating from the 12th to the 15th centuries. According to legend, these catacombs were the hiding place of St Agatha when she fled Sicily. Tours of the catacombs are conducted regularly and explain the history of the site and point out features of the artwork. Back at ground level is a quirky little museum containing everything from fossils and minerals to coins, church vestments and Etruscan, Roman and Egyptian artefacts. Note that from October to June the complex is closed between noon and 1pm.
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Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail
Diagonally opposite the Koubbat as-Sufara’ is the resting place of the sultan who made Meknès his capital in the 17th century. Moulay Ismail’s stature as one of Morocco’s greatest rulers means that non-Muslim visitors are welcomed into the sanctuary. Entry is through a series of austere, peaceful courtyards meant to induce a quiet and humble attitude among visitors, an aim that’s not always successful in the face of a busload of tourists. The tomb hall is a lavish contrast and showcase of the best of Moroccan craftsmanship. Photography is permitted, but non-Muslims may not approach the tomb itself.
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Dar Jamaï Museum
Since 1920 the palace Dar Jamaï has housed the Administration des Beaux Arts and one of Morocco’s best museum. Exhibits include traditional ceramics, jewellery, rugs and some fantastic textiles and embroidery. Look out for the brocaded saddles, and some exquisite examples of Meknasi needlework (including some extravagant gold and silver kaftans). The koubba (domed sanctuary) upstairs is furnished as a traditional salon complete with luxurious rugs and cushions. The museum also has a fine collection of antique carpets, representing various styles from different regions of Morocco.
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Domus Romana
The Domus Romana, also called the Roman House, was built in the 1920s to incorporate the excavated remains of a large Roman townhouse from the 1st century BC. The centrepiece is the original peristyle court (formerly an open courtyard surrounded by columns). The mosaic floor has a geometric border around an image of two birds perched on a water bowl, known as the Drinking Doves of Sosos; a cistern in one corner collected rainwater. There are additional mosaic fragments and artefacts from Malta’s Roman period, including sculptures, amphorae, pottery fragments and oil lamps.
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Place Lalla Aouda
South of Bab el-Mansour lies the mechouar (parade ground), now known as Place Lalla Aouda , where Moulay Ismail inspected his famed Black Guard. After bringing 16,000 slaves from sub-Saharan Africa, Moulay Ismail guaranteed the continued existence of his elite units by providing the soldiers with women and raising their offspring for service in the guard. By the time of his death, the Black Guard had expanded tenfold.
Its successes were many, ranging from quelling internal rebellions, to chasing European powers out of northern Morocco, to disposing of the Ottoman Turk threat from Algeria.
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Flea Market
This is an interesting place to wander, it descends towards the river. If you want to keep exploring, turning north along Rue des Consuls, you'll be surrounded by colourful carpets, leatherworks, babouches (leather slippers) and copper crafts. It's one of the more interesting areas of the medina for travellers with many original diplomatic residencies still intact.
After the carpet souq, the street ends in an open area lined with craft shops which was the setting for the slave auctions in the days of the Sallee Rovers. From here you can make your way up the hill to the kasbah.
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Les Palais Rhoul Hammam
A classic Moroccan hammam, with separate chambers for varying levels of heat, zellij (mosaic) and tadelakt (polished plaster) walls, and sunbeams filtering through vaulted ceilings. It's oddly placed alongside a French baroque villa, amid fake Berber tents pitched in a formal garden - but don't let that deter you. The standard hammam treatment includes gommage, rhassoul with orange-flower water and massage with organic essential oils, and it really Rhouls. Treat yourself to cocktails afterwards at Abyssin and you may have to be scraped up and mailed home.
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Medina
Chefchaouen's medina is one of the loveliest in Morocco. Small and uncrowded, it's easy to explore, with enough winding paths to keep you diverted, but compact enough that you'll never quite get lost. Most of the buildings are painted a blinding blue-white, giving the whole place a clean, fresh look, while the terracotta pantiles on many buildings added an Andalucian flavour.
Centred on Plaza Uta el-Hammam, the medina occupies the eastern half of the town centre, with its main entrance on its western side at Bab el-Ain. The majority of hotels and restaurants are found here.
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