Restaurants in Morelia
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A
Restaurante Lu
Inside the Hotel Casino, talented young chef Lucero Soto Arriaga turns humble pre-Hispanic ingredients into exquisite gems of alta cocina (Mexican haute cuisine). Her multicourse tasting menu might begin with tamales with smoked butter, then move on to delicate salads of dried nopal (cactus paddle) with caramelized pumpkin seeds, squash blossom-peanut tacos and whimsical confections of local fruits. Try to snag an outdoor table for perfect plaza views.
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B
Gaspachos La Cerrada
Gaspacho – a salad of diced mango, pineapple and jicama, drowned in orange and lime juice and dashed with salt, chili sauce and cheese (optional) – is a local delicacy served all over town. But according to locals, this place is the best.
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C
Plaza San Agustín
A few cheap food stalls with lots of tables can be found under the covered arches here.
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Iglesia La Inmaculada
Every night for more than 40 years, volunteers have served up local delicacies such as corundas (triangular tamales ), uchepos (fresh corn tamales ), fried quesadillas and buñelos (syrupy doughnuts) in the basement of this massive church, with proceeds going to charity. Buy a handful of tickets at the counter to redeem for food at the various booths – leftovers can be returned for cash. One of Morelia’s most memorable eating experiences.
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D
La Casa del Portal
The setting, a converted three-story mansion, has history. Don Juan Villaseñor lived here during the 16th century and Lázaro Cárdenas retreated here when he was president of Mexico from 1934 to 1940. There’s a stunning upstairs bar, La Terraza, overlooking the Plaza de Armas, an in-house wine shop, oh and it serves meals. Specialties include a Purépecha trout smothered in red chili sauce and local cheese.
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E
Al Taquito
This tiny taquería, near the aqueduct and the clandestine make out promenade - Callejón Romántica − serves up delicious nopales (cactus), chorizo, shredded pork and beef tacos and burritos. Its specialty, alambre, a diced mixture of onions, sweet peppers, beef and chorizo, covered in cheese and served with griddled tortillas, is a hit with local uni students.
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F
630
Ancient architecture and modernism coexist here, sometimes awkwardly and the menu is likewise off-beat - mingling Italian, Mexican and Thai dishes. But if you order right, you'll leave happy. The octopus carpaccio - with five thin slices of octopus sprinkled with sea salt crystals, parsley and drizzled with flavorful olive oil - is fantastic.
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G
Fonda Marceva
Specializing in the cuisine of the tierra caliente (hot lands) region of Michoacán’s southeast, this lovely courtyard restaurant serves a mind-blowing aporreadillo (breakfast stew of eggs, dried beef and chili) and some of the best frijoles de olla (beans slow-cooked in a pot) we’ve ever tasted.
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H
Govinda’s
Despite the Indian name and the Hindu art on the walls, this 2nd-floor vegetarian restaurant is not Indian, but serves an odd, yet tasty, international mishmash of cuisines. Massive combo lunches might include anything from curried broccoli to spaghetti to soy taquitos to yogurt.
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I
Mirasoles
Authentic Michoacán cooking, including traditional bean soup, chicken mole and chamorro (pork leg dry-rubbed with chili and cooked in a clay pot), is dressed up and served in a gorgeous historic building. It serves more than 100 wines.
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J
Onix
This bizarre restaurant has a sleek, seductive décor and exotic menu items like scorpion and steak with star fruit and coconut sauce. The soundtrack is equally schizophrenic, but the food is good. The bar upstairs goes off on Fridays and Saturdays.
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K
Mercado de Dulces
The seductive Mercado de Dulces, on the western side of the Palacio Clavijero, deals the region’s famous sweets, including a rainbow selection of ate de fruta (fruit leather) in a variety of exotic flavors.
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L
Villa San José
About 3km south of town is a luxury hotel dining room with world class views. Grab a table on the terrace and snack on huitlacoche quesadillas and marinated, grilled shrimp tacos, as the twinkling city spills out below.
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M
Fonda Las Mercedes
The bar ceiling at this hip, upscale spot is embedded with 200 clay pots, the intimate courtyard dining room is decorated with old stone columns and spheres and the kitchen serves four cuts of steak 10 different ways.
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N
Café Catedral
Packed from breakfast to the wee hours, this is easily the most popular sidewalk café. It has great coffee, hot chocolate, tasty breakfasts (make sure to mix that smoked chipotle salsa with your eggs) and good pizza.
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O
Mercado Independencia
South of downtown, this massive market bustles with vendors hawking everything from DVDs to watermelons, and is a good place to grab fresh bread and steaming bowls of pozole.
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Mercado Nicolás Bravo
Here you’ll find great food stalls on the 2nd floor. Try stall 127 for Doña Feli’s locally famous birria (stew).
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Q
Super Cocina La Rosa
Family owned and operated, devour Mexican soul food in this colonial stone relic. Nice!
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