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12:30
Located smack in the middle of the gay nightlife district, 12:30 is good for sandwiches, salads and other between-club ' munchis' . In fact, the relaxed, social atmosphere may appeal to exhausted clubbers - the electronica soundtrack is usually low enough for actual conversation. Go upstairs to dine on a terrace overlooking Amberes. Service can be a challenge.
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Águila Y Sol
A modern temple of somewhat stark decor coupled with exciting updated Mexican flavors, Martha Ortiz is something of a culinary goddess in these parts. Start in style by sipping a bandera mexicana, so named because it features the colors in the Mexican flag (green, white and red): three shot glasses filled with oak-barrel aged tequila reposada, — a tomato citrus drink — and lime juice.
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Al-Andalus
Al-Andalus caters to the capital's substantial Lebanese community, serving shawarma, kebabs, kibbe (spiced lamb fritters), felafel and so on in a superb colonial mansion in the Merced market district. Dine in one of the wood-beamed halls or on a terrace overlooking the courtyard. After lunch, choose from a tempting array of baklavas and other syrupy pastries, then kick back with a hookah.
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Angus
This steak place attracts the slick business crowd here for the excellent prime cuts and, possibly, the scantily-dressed waitresses in cowgirl gear. The vast closed-in terrace is the place to be; the interior dining room has stuffy burgundy upholstery and a private men's-club look. The meaty choices include rib eye cut and T-bone steaks, plus surf-and-turf steak or lobster and shrimp. Seriously homesick Yanks can kick start their appetite with a bowl of clam chowder.
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Antigua Hacienda De Tlalpan
The setting is sublime; an 18th-century hacienda tastefully resurrected into one of the city's quintessential colonial-style restaurants. The dining rooms are set around lovely gardens, complete with showy peacocks and a small pond with swans. The menu reads like a novel, with a vast choice including some delectable soups: pumpkin flower, cold avocado, lobster bisque and black bean. Follow this with a fish or spicy meat dish like roast pork loin in a chili sauce.
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Azul Y Oro
Ricardo Muñoz Zurita famously travels throughout the country searching out traditional Mexican dishes which he then re-creates in the kitchen here with delicious results. There are four seasonal menus, special dishes that change monthly, and a daily three-course menu, made affordable for students on a budget, at just around $50 .
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Bar Montejo
A paradise for office workers, Bar Montejo is always jam-packed. Come early and leave late. The constant stream of botanas is one of the best in the city, starting with shrimp soup, continuing with tacos fritos and peaking with paella. But the real treat is cochinita pibil (pork, marinated in chilies, wrapped in banana leaves, and pit-cooked or baked).
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Barracuda Diner
This retro-style diner does a fine facsimile of gringo comfort food, including cheeseburgers, onion rings, and macaroni and cheese. The late-night hangout also sets up some pretty far-out milkshakes (mmm, mamey).
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Biko
Co-owned by San Sebastián chef Bruno Oteiza, the menu is based on traditional Basque recipes that have been given the nouvelle treatment, such as tuna steaks served with ham and dried fruits. The dining room is unostentatiously chic and less bleakly minimalist than some top-end restaurants in these parts. There is an adjacent bar with bucket seats, intimate lighting and rooftops views.
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Bistrot La Bourgogne
There's a real inside-outside feel to the dining room here, with its glass ceiling and ivy-draped rafters. Wicker furniture and red geraniums complete the sunny Mediterranean look, while the menu is of the bistro rather than blue-ribbon variety, with classic dishes like snails, terrines, moist tuna steaks and creamy foie gras. Chef Fernand Gutiérrez is used to the discerning bourgeoisie, having worked in the Ritz Carlton and Four Seasons hotels.
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Bistrot Mosaico
A slice of Paris just west of Av Insurgentes, this unpretentious bistro is the successful creation of French restaurateur François Avernin. It's trendy for a reason: the service is stellar, the salads fresh and varied, and the wines well chosen. Picnickers can stock up on pâté and escargots at the deli counter.
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Blah Blah
Mysteriously described as a progressive bar in their advertising, this Argentinean parrilla (grill) is, indeed, run by an enthusiastic young team and the decor is modern(ish), with stone-clad walls and earth colors, but the food is meaty and traditional, with gut-busting grills like sausage, gizzard, beef and ribs. There are dishes that don't require finger bowls, such as chicken breast with orange sauce and apple and, for the truly faint-hearted, Greek salad.
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Blu
A rare oyster bar among this energetic stretch of restaurants on Río Lerma between Río Tiber and Río Guadalquivir. There are just a handful of tables, plus the adjacent bar, which is bathed with dated '60s blue neon light. Dishes include an oyster starter, salmon grill, grilled meats and salads.
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Boca Del Río
This large, old-fashioned dining hall has its fish delivered daily from the coast. Have a seat at the long stainless-steel counter and enjoy shrimp, oyster or octopus cocktails (from around $50 , or eat all three in one serve, campechano -style), served with a lemon squeezer, bottle of habanero salsa and package of Saltines.
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Boludo
A slick modern interior with a black-and-burgundy color scheme combined with hearty cuts of imported Argentinean steak makes this a favorite with the briefcase brigade. Those with a lighter appetite can opt for enchiladas, sandwiches or a vegetable grill.
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Breadhaus
Everything costs around $59 on this menu, including baguettes, paninis, ciabatta and fat focaccias stuffed with a nine-filling choice like serrano ham, roast beef and salmon. If you want to lay off the dough, go for one of their mixed-leaf salads. The space is inside-outside and attracts local business types with limited lunch breaks and expansive appetites.
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Café Colón
Dishing out traditional fare from this location for almost half a century, Café Colón remains popular with local office workers who pour in mid-morning for coffee or mid-afternoon for the filling comida. The café's two neatly renovated rooms retain old maps of the Alameda and vintage light fixtures.
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Café de Tacuba
Way before the band there was the restaurant. A fantasy of colored tiles, brass lamps and oil paintings, this mainstay has served antojitos (traditional Mexican snacks or light dishes - literally 'little whims') since 1912. The food is overrated, but the atmosphere is just right for a plate of pambazos (filled rolls fried in chili sauce) or tamales with hot chocolate.
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Café El Popular
So popular was this tiny round-the-clock café that they opened another more amply proportioned branch next door to catch the considerable overflow. Fresh pastries and good combination breakfasts (fruit, eggs, frijoles - beans - and coffee) are the main attractions. Café con leche (around $1 ) is served chino style (ie you specify the strength).
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Café La Blanca
White-coated waiters and orange upholstery set the tone for this 1960s relic, offering hearty breakfasts and daily lunch specials. Sit at the U-shaped counter or grab a table by the window for people-watching over a cappuccino.
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Café La Gloria
A hip bistro in the heart of the zone, La Gloria remains a popular meeting place for both Chilangos and foreigners, thanks to their generous salads, zesty pastas and surprising blackboard specials, not to mention the quirky art on display.
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Café Mangia
Enjoy an uncomplicated menu of panini with fillings such as pesto and smoked cheese, roast beef, cheese and herbs and smoked salmon with cream cheese. There's a healthy salad and breakfast choice, plus fresh juices and seriously good coffee. The atmosphere is boho-arty with white-painted brick walls, challenging art work and an outside terrace. All the vegetables are organically grown.
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Café Parnaso
The place to linger, not only over countless cappuccinos, but also a groaning plato combinado with Spanish tortilla, cheeses, ham, empanadas (small pastry with savory or sweet filling) and sweet pastries. Tip the scales with a chocolatine, gooey layers of chocolate cream between sticky filo pastry.
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Cafetería Del Claustro
If you're touring the Alameda museums, put this self-service café, inside the tranquil courtyard of the Museo Franz Mayer, on your itinerary. The light fare includes Italian cold cuts on chapata rolls, ample green salads, quiches and excellent cakes, with seating at marble tables and baroque music to set the mood.
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Cambalache
You can expect a good grilling at this, one of the better steak houses in town. The front window provides a taste of what's to come, with steaks roasting on the spit. The low-ceiling dark wood dining room gets packed with local businessmen during the week dining on a menu that, aside from the steaks, includes sucking pig, mixed grill, veal sweetbreads, fondues and (would you believe) a blessedly digestible watercress salad with a choice of Roquefort or bacon dressing.
