Central Rīga
Like every other country north of Antarctica, Latvia has TV chefs. Here, the beloved Mārtiņš Sirmais runs an idiosyncratic restaurant that's part…
Central Rīga
Like every other country north of Antarctica, Latvia has TV chefs. Here, the beloved Mārtiņš Sirmais runs an idiosyncratic restaurant that's part…
Brasa & Teika
One of Lavia's favourite craft brewers, Valmiermuiža, has a craft kitchen in this renovated industrial space. Creative dishes include excellent popular…
Brasa & Teika
'What kind of Colombian beans would you like?' Yes, these people are serious about coffee – they roast their own. The bare-brick vibe is attractive, as…
Central Rīga
Rīga’s hipster students head here to sip espresso and blog about Nietzsche amid comfy couches and blond-wood minimalism. Weekday breakfast (8am to 11.30am…
Central Rīga
US expats aching for lox or a bacon-egg-and-cheese bagel can get a fix at this real-deal joint. Fresh bagels come with cream cheese or as a sandwich with…
Maskavas Forštate, Avotu Iela & Grīziņkalns
If exploring the fish stalls at the Rīga Central Market puts you in the mood for some excellent fresh seafood, you're in luck. Right next to the fish hall…
Central Rīga
This toney restaurant has served royalty and rock stars (Japanese emperor Akihito, Prince Charles, Elton John) amid its eye-catching van Gogh–inspired…
Old Rīga
The Dome Hotel’s restaurant quickly reminds diners that Rīga sits near bodies of water that are full of delicious fish. Service is impeccable and dishes …
3 Pavāru restorāns “Tam labam būs augt”
Old Rīga
The stellar trio of chefs who run this show have a jazzy approach to cooking, with improvisation at the heart of the compact, ever-changing menu. The…
Old Rīga
Step back to 1910 in this dahling little cafe, where the art nouveau–styled cabinet positively groans under the weight of cakes and chocolate truffles. It…
Central Rīga
Mismatched tables perch unsteadily on a sidewalk cracked by a lovely old shade tree at this very popular kebab shop. From the pitas to the piquant grilled…
Central Rīga
Rīgans of all stripes stop by this bustling cafeteria, just a few metres from the ticket windows in the mall at the Central Train Station. Lido's…
Central Rīga
Despite Rīga’s mercurial cafe culture, Osīriss is a legendary stalwart. The green faux-marble tabletops haven’t changed since the mid-1990s and neither…
Old Rīga
Russia puts on its friendly Chekhovian hat in this quaint restaurant that dishes up a fairy-tale-ish assortment of bliny pancakes, pelmeņi dumplings and…
Old Rīga
Centred on Latvia, but with guest stars from Lithuania and Belarus, this traditional restaurant serves slightly glammed-up versions of the sort of local…
Old Rīga
Go one better than dining with a view – dine in the view! The Hotel Gutenbergs’ rooftop terrace in the heart of Old Rīga perches between soaring spires…
Central Rīga
Creative Latvian gastronomy is showcased in this Vērmanes Park favourite. Expect the likes of home-smoked sturgeon, glazed ox cheeks with blackberries and…
Central Rīga
Sample some great cuisine from the Caucasus, which proves that life gets spicier when you go south. Start with an appetiser of pickled vegetables – the…
Central Rīga
Step down a few steps – just metres from St Gertrude Church – to some of the freshest fare in Rīga. Local and seasonal produce dictates what's on offer,…
Ķīpsala, Āgenskalns & Torņakalns
This renovated brick former chalk factory has a stellar position right on the Daugava River on Ķīpsala. Whether you're in the dining room with the front…
Central Rīga
Although right in the centre, this place feels like you've discovered a warm tavern in the middle of nowhere. Complete with a tiled stove, this wooden…
Maskavas Forštate, Avotu Iela & Grīziņkalns
Rīga Central Market now has a food court, and it's somewhat upscale. Over 20 stalls cook up fare from around the world, including sushi, pho, pasta,…
Old Rīga
The bentwood chairs are just one traditional detail at this old-time cafe. The coffee is excellent and the baked goods fresh; get anything with rhubarb…
Old Rīga
The pick of the Lido litter (Rīga’s ubiquitous smorgasbord chain), this woodsy charmer feels like an old Latvian brewhouse. In summer, the front opens up…
Brasa & Teika
Generations of Rīgans have stopped for a bite at this round-the-clock retro cafeteria where a sign proclaiming 'Brezhnev ate here' would not be out of…
Maskavas Forštate, Avotu Iela & Grīziņkalns
This is the place to finally have grey peas: the national dish of savoury stewed beans is scrumptious at this simple and tidy bar/cafe catering to…
Old Rīga
On the ground floor of a boldly coloured 1903 art nouveau building, this corner cafe serves fine coffee and pastries with French flair through the day…
Old Rīga
A Rīga institution for budget travellers and after-hours partiers, this extra-large self-serve eatery stays open extra-late, offering tasty pelmeņi …
Central Rīga
Part of a sleek row of waterside bistros overlooking the Passenger Ferry Terminal and the Daugava River in the Andrejosta neighbourhood, Koya has a large…
Old Rīga
It could still be 1930 in the Old Rīga branch of this popular local bakers. Ponder the huge loaves of traditional bread, then wander over to the display…
Central Rīga
From fish and chips to towering seafood platters, every day the line-up changes depending on what sails in on the fishing fleet. This contemporary cafe…
Central Rīga
Savour the cultured Ģertrūdes iela street life on the large shaded terrace at this hip, Italian-style cafe. Have some bruschetta with a glass of wine from…
Old Rīga
Not only does this tidy little hole in the wall have one of the best URLs ever, it lives up to its name. Staff – far more sober than most of the customers…
Old Rīga
Tables sprawl across the square at this upmarket but relaxed restaurant facing the rear of St Peter's Church. The bistro-style menu includes fresh seafood…
Central Rīga
This slightly upscale supermarket has an excellent deli section: the perfect complement for your foraging foray at the Rīga Central Market, whether it's…
Old Rīga
Vampires beware – everything at this joint contains garlic, even the ice cream. The menu is pretty hit-and-miss, but no matter what, it’s best to avoid…
Central Rīga
Latvia’s trendier version of Prêt a Manger is a step up from ready-made sandwiches at the grocery store. Black-and-yellow stencil art rocks the walls and…
Central Rīga
If you’re up to your elbows in pork tongue, Charlestons is a sure bet to get rid of the meat sweats. Lounge around the terraced courtyard in the heart of…
Old Rīga
Who knew the Baltic had such brilliant Indian food?! Tucked away down a medieval alley you’ll find a welcome antedote to the bland ingredients that rule…
Central Rīga
We'd call this tiny place sweet even if it didn't make these light fruity cupcakes and meringues – just for its looks. You might be able to occupy one of…