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Traditionally, monaka are wafers filled with sweet bean jam...
Dine surrounded by greenery at this long-established Western-style restaurant in the middle of Hibiya-kōen. It is famous for its steaks and curry buffets. In warmer months there's a lovely outdoor terrace dining area.
Huge bowls of udon (thick, wheat noodles) are the speciality here. Go for simple (topped with seaweed or pickled plum), exotic (udon carbonara) or filling (Tsuruton zanmai : topped with fried tofu, tempura and beef).
Takadanobaba's Myanmar community gathers here for mohinga (rice-noodle soup) and laphete thote (salad of pickled tea leaves) made with ingredients sent over by the owner's mother back in Myanmar...
On Yanaka Ginza, Nagomi deals in juicy skewers of ji-dori (free-range chicken). There are plenty of grilled veggie options, too. Wash it all down with a bowl of chicken soup rāmen ...
A rooftop night market that spans the Asian continent, Asia-yokochō has vendors dishing out everything from Korean bibimbap to Vietnamese pho . It's noisy, a bit chaotic and particularly fun in a group.
Green tea isn’t the only flavour Japan has contributed to the ice-cream playbook; other delicious innovations available at Ouca include kuro-goma (black sesame) and beni imo (purple sweet potato).
Grill your own okonomiyaki (savoury pancakes) at this funky place inside the gallery Design Festa . During lunch (11am to 3pm) you can get 90 minutes of all-you-can-eat, plus a drink, for just ¥1060.
This busy, famous place rustles up top-class soba (buckwheat noodles). There's a picture menu to help you choose. Look for the black-granite sign in front that says in English 'Since 1892'.
This tiny eight-seat bistro, dishing up homemade sausages, fresh-baked bread and bio wines, has a huge local following. Reservations are accepted only for 6pm; otherwise join the queue.
It's hard to beat Kozue's combination of exquisite, seasonal Japanese cuisine, artisan crockery and soaring views over Shinjuku from the floor to ceiling windows. Reservations are essential.
Gone too long without a houmous fix? Tabela will sort you out, and serve you tagine on the terrace while you watch the comings and goings on Shibuya's hip Kamiyama shōtengai (market street).
This funky terrace cafe inside Inokashira-kōen serves tasty Thai classics, ice cream, coffee and beer. It’s across the pond, if you’re coming through the park from Kichijōji Station.
Along the street popularly known as Hoppy-dōri – ‘Hoppy’ is a cheap malt beverage – food vendors set out stools and tables for customers to nosh on cheap yakitori from noon until late.
Free tours of Ueno, conducted in English by volunteer guides, leave from in front of this cafe every Sunday, Wednesday and Friday at 10.30am and 1pm. No sign up is necessary.
Mismatched furniture and ‘found’ objects conspire to make this cafe look like a hippie camp. There’s a spin-the-globe menu of pizza, pastas and curries made with organic veggies.
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