Restaurants in Tokyo
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New York Grill
You may not be staying at the Park Hyatt, but don’t let that stop you from ascending to the 52nd floor to swoon over the stunning views of the city below. Prices may be as high as the altitude, but where else can you splurge on a romantic, sumptuous supper enhanced by sparkling night-time lights and live jazz? And in case everything looks familiar, the adjacent New York Grill & Bar was where Bill Murray drank glass upon glass of Suntory whiskey in Sofia Coppola’s Lost in Translation. Reservations are advised, especially on weekends and for brunch.
reviewed
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Gonpachi
If the screen shots of Uma Thurman in a yellow jumpsuit didn't clue you in, Gonpachi is the place that inspired the Lucy Liu sequence in Kill Bill (think Charlie Brown and the Crazy 88). Though the menu isn't authentically Japanese (camembert tempura – yum!), the decor is undeniably Edo. Reserve early for a booth on the 2nd floor overlooking the crowd below. There's a sushi room on the 3rd level, which is separate from the rest of the restaurant.
reviewed
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Kyūbey
If you can splurge on only one Tokyo sushi experience, make it this one. Established in 1936, Kyūbey’s quality and presentation have attracted a moneyed and celebrity clientele ever since, seeking incomparable quality and presentation. Go for broke with kaiseki (course menu, lunch/dinner from ¥10,500/15,750), or have it served on pottery by famed artisan Kitaoji Rosanjin for ¥31,500. Otherwise just peruse the Rosanjin exhibition on the restaurant’s 4th floor. Kyūbey continues to make headlines: in 2009, it bought at auction half of a single bluefin tuna that sold for a staggering ¥9.63 million (and sold single cuts of toro from it for ¥2000!).
reviewed
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Vinoteca
Quite possibly one of the hottest restaurants in the city at the time of writing, this inevitable crowd pleaser offers open-air dining overlooking the gardens of Tokyo Midtown. As these tables are some of the most in-demand seats in the capital, you would be wise to book in advance (in fact it's necessary) to ensure that you don't let down your better half.
Although true Italian connoisseurs may find fault in the slight Japan-isation of the menu, the food here is nevertheless spectacular, and the alfresco dining is arguably the city's best.
reviewed
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Daiwa Sushi
Waits of over one hour are commonplace at Tsukiji's most famous sushi bar, but it's all worth it once you're past the noren (curtains) and your first piece of sushi hits the counter. Unless you're comfortable ordering in Japanese, the standard set (seven nigiri, plus maki and miso soup) is a good bet; there's a picture menu. Though the staff may be too polite to say so, you're expected to eat and run so others can partake in this quintessential Tsukiji experience.
reviewed
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China Room
Located inside the world-famous Grand Hyatt Tokyo at Roppongi Hills, the China Room offers the most lavish and refined Chinese cuisine in the capital. From perfectly roasted Peking duck and fragrant shark-fin soup to rare oolong teas and handcrafted dumplings, the China Room is a feast for the senses that never fails to disappoint. In addition to widely known culinary classics, the China Room also offers rare Japanese seafood delicacies such as Niigata snow crab and Hokkaidō uni (sea urchin roe).
reviewed
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Keika Kumamoto Rāmen
The Kyūshū-style tonkotsu rāmen (pork-broth-based noodles), is worth queuing for at this nationally famous rāmen shop. You order and pay as you enter; try the chāshū-men (rāmen with sliced pork). There's no English sign, so look for the large, multicoloured cartoon mural of a chef and pigs on its exterior.
reviewed
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Kanda Yabu Soba
A wooden wall and a small garden enclose this venerable buckwheat-noodle shop. When you walk in, staff singing out the orders is one of the first signs that you’ve arrived in a singular, ageless place. Raised tatami platforms and a darkly wooded dining room set the stage for show-stopping soba. There’s a sister branch in Asakusa: Namiki Yabu Soba.
reviewed
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Izu-Ei
Izu-ei specialises in unagi, which you can take in two ways: in a bentō that includes tempura and pickled vegetables; or charcoal-grilled, sauced and laid on a bed of steamed rice, as unagi purists might insist. Try to get seated near an upstairs window for the best views of the large lily pads of nearby Shinobazu-ike.
reviewed
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Kantipur
Happily for vegetarians, this Nepalese restaurant has a broad range of acceptable edibles, and the portions of curries and tandoori dishes are large. Kantipur is in the basement of its building, whose entrance is marked by the small, brightly coloured signs on the street.
reviewed
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Shinatatsu
A bit of a ramble, a bit of a gamble (if you don’t speak Japanese), Shinatatsu is a collection of seven rāmen shops and five donburi shops lining the trackside arcade beside Shinagawa Station. Shops don’t have English menus, so you may want to pick up Shinatatsu’s picture booklet or ask for explanations of the different varieties before you purchase your meal ticket from the vending machines. Among them, Tetsu serves tsukemen – plain noodles that you dip in soup, which is all the rage right now. Donburi toppings (beef, tempura, sashimi etc) are a little more easily decipherable.
reviewed
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Fonda de la Madrugada
We tend not to trust Mexican cooking outside of Mexico and the border regions, but we make an exception for this rambling restaurant in a sub-basement. Mariachis stroll through the florid, Spanish-style ‘courtyard’ as you tuck into enchiladas tricolores (chicken enchiladas with three colours of mole sauce), surprisingly gourmet fish and meat dishes, and potent margaritas (pay ¥150 extra for the good tequila). The downside: it may be the most expensive Mexican meal we’ve ever eaten. Still, it’s less than a plane ticket to Guadalajara.
reviewed
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Kado
Set in a house built in 1950 in a residential neighbourhood, Kado reveals a rare glimpse of Tokyo prior to the late-20th-century economic miracle. Lunch is simple, such as curry rice or om-rice (seasoned rice in an omelette), while five-course dinners emphasise traditional Japanese recipes and seasonal produce, enhanced by the familial ambience. There is no English menu, though the staff do their best to accommodate. From Kagurazaka Station, turn left and left again into the jagged street across from Copain Copine; Kado is at the first four-way corner.
reviewed
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Peter
It's hard to put a price on unchecked luxury, especially when you're talking about the main dining room at the Tokyo branch of the world-famous Peninsula Hotel. Offering an eclectic breadth of international cuisine, diners can choose from a variety of offerings ranging from fatty tuna sashimi spreads to duck foie gras, and create their own unique set course.
While you're sipping fine wine and spoiling your palette with some of the finest delicacies from around the world, enjoy the stunning view of Central Tokyo while pondering how good life can be.
reviewed
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Omoide-yokochō
Since the postwar days, smoke has been billowing nightly from the little shacks lining this alley by the train tracks, purveying yakitori (skewers of grilled chicken) and cold beers to long-time regulars. Literally translated as 'Memory Lane' (and less politely known as Shoben-yokochō, 'Piss Alley'), Omoide-yokochō may actually be just a memory someday; there's been on-again, off-again talk of razing it to make way for new development. Stop by around 7pm to indulge in a few skewers and pre-emptive nostalgia.
reviewed
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Coucagno
Few restaurants in Tokyo can claim more-stunning views than the highly praised Coucagno, which occupies the 40th floor of the Cerulean Tower, one of the most dramatic buildings in both Shibuya and Tokyo. From such lofty heights, the Shibuya street scene looks as if it’s populated by tiny ants, though attention quickly shifts to the food once the chef gets going. As you’d expect, everything from the delicate sauces drizzled across your roast duck to the perfect crust atop your crème brûlée is indeed a class act.
reviewed
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Shamaim
A quick train ride from Ikebukuro will bring you to this Israeli-owned restaurant, which serves up an incredible all-you-can-eat feast that'll having you dreaming about a trip to the Middle East. Gorge yourself on pita, hummus, meat skewers, cucumber salads and rice pilaf, but be sure to save some room for a hot cup of mint tea, some syrupy baklava and the obligatory apple sheesha.
The restaurant is located across the street from the south exit of Ekoda station, which is three stops away from Ikebukuro on the Seibu-Ikebukuro line.
reviewed
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Shabu-Zen Roppongi
This nationwide group of some 20 shabu-shabu speciality restaurants started right here in Roppongi. Single-order set menus start at ¥3600, but most guests plonk down an extra ¥600 for tabe-hōdai (all you can eat). Prices continue to rise further with the grade of beef and if you add extras, including the fearsome fugu (blowfish; course from ¥6100). Superclean rooms offer a choice of table or zashiki (tatami mat) seating and a bonafide nonsmoking section. Shabu-Zen is downstairs from the Hobgoblin bar.
reviewed
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Tetsugen Nikusho
There's no shortage of bizarre (at least to a Western palate) delicacies on offer at Tetsugen Nikusho, which offers refined rustic yet sophisticated ambience in the heart of Tokyo. Depending on how brave (or drunk) you're feeling, you can sample a whole range of traditional Japanese meats including rabbit, boar, deer, horse and frog as well as a whole bunch of sea critter parts that don't really translate into English.
Sadly, there isn't an English menu on offer, though sometimes it's better not to know what you're eating.
reviewed
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L’Osier
In Tokyo, French restaurants are at the top of the culinary ladder, which is why it’s no small accolade that local gourmets consider L’Osier to be the best around. But if you wish to analyse the foie gras yourself, you’ll need to book as far as possible in advance since a table at L’Osier is a highly coveted commodity. However, once the wine hits your head and the food hits your lips, you’ll key into the art-deco-inspired surroundings and realise that Paris isn’t that far away after all.
reviewed
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Din Tai Fung
One word is all you need at this branch of Taipei’s most esteemed dumpling house: shōronpō. To enjoy these juicy pork ‘soup’ dumplings served in bamboo steamers, scoop one carefully into your spoon, sprinkle a drop of sushōyu (vinegar soy sauce) and a few strands of grated ginger on top, poke a hole in it, slurp out the broth, then eat. Then move on to noodle soups and vegetable dishes from the picture menu. There’s another branch in Shiodome.
reviewed
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Nabi
There seems to be yakiniku on every corner in Tokyo these days, but this contemporary spot concentrates on home-style Korean cooking: dak-hanmali (whole chicken in broth; ¥4200), bibimbap (rice and marinated vegetables), sundubu jiggae (spicy tofu stew) and samgyeupsal (pork belly), which you can wrap in ssam (leaves of sesame and lettuce). Bonus: it’s organic. The biggest problem is finding it. From Meiji-dori, head into the alley left of the Diesel shop.
reviewed
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Toki-No-Ma
True to the Ebisu spirit, this izakaya is a class act. For your drinking pleasure, the attentive staff can recommend any number of limited-edition sakes, which change constantly depending on the season. For your eating pleasure, the attentive staff can recommend any number of unique dishes including satusma-ryouri (Kyūshū-style cuisine), wild game birds and a full assortment of seafood delicacies. Although there is no English menu, set courses are available if you can't speak Japanese.
reviewed
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Heiroku Sushi
Kaiten (conveyor belt) sushi was long looked down on, but it’s gained new popularity in Japan’s recession age; this neat but utilitarian shop in the heart of chic Omote-Sandō is living proof. Itamae (sushi chefs) plonk cuts of sushi on plates colour-coded to their prices. Sit at the counter, choose what you like, and total up the plates for what works out to be a pretty good deal. We’ve seen nonsushi dishes come around, too: edamame, orange slices, even strawberries and cream.
reviewed
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Sasa-no-Yuki
Sasa-no-Yuki opened its doors in Edo times, serving beautifully presented tōfu-ryōri (multicourse, tofu-based meals). To find it, turn right out the station exit, cross the big intersection at Kototoi-dōri and look for the black-walled restaurant on your left about 200m up, past the pedestrian overpass.
reviewed